ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

If you mean NACA ducting up through the underside of the splitter, then I agree that bumper placement is much better. Pressure is much higher above the splitter than beneath (obviously, that is how it works). Wheel well pressure is probably higher than the underside of the splitter.

So, even though there is dynamic flow to be considered, you will be trying to get flow from a low pressure region to a high pressure region, which does not work. If you do not want ducts in the bumper, then move them into the ducted region between the radiator inlet (bumper) and the radiator, above the splitter, sticking through the baffling. That is a higher pressure region.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I think I just made a huge mistake by removing my brake duct for the oil cooler.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

No man you can still make them work. Do you remember how mine are (were) routed into the corners of the radiator inlet? Do something like that. It is straight up Emilio style.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

Or partition the 2 RB side inlets and use the lower one for the brake ducting, the upper for your cooler? My ducts are squished and stuck into the 'oval' ducts in the OEM front spoiler... tube not attached yet in this pic. All pics HERE page 14 up



And what I did for oil cooler - but you're still using the lamps unless you get the ones with the openings in them.. I also had to do some serious trimming of fat to make the opening from the lamp to the wheel well.




I don't mean to clutter with my pics, for your reference - delete when done!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Ok, did so reassessment. We're pulling the bumper and fabbing up a proper "heat exchanger box".

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Ducts in nose
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....9&postcount=18

Ducts in radiator ducting
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....4&postcount=23

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone tried mounting an oil cooler against the radiator, and if so what were the results? This is really simple and requires almost no effort...but it's untested and I don't want to be the lab rat. I want to go with something that I know will work. I should note that I have a small 6/13" oil cooler core. Currently my oil temps are 235*f which are a bit high for my liking, water has never been north of 199*f.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. This is what I had in mind, but I have 3 heat exchangers to deal with which obviously makes it a bit more complex. Will the car handle differently without the crash-beam?

Where can I get 2.5" NACA ducts? Everyone stocks 3" and nothing else.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

235F for oil temperature is fine. I would not worry about that at all.

But if you still want to move it... I have my oil cooler in front of the radiator and it works fine. No intercooler to contend with so that helps with the mounting. You probably remember how I did this but here is a picture. The white ducting in front of the oil cooler is key since it forces air through the heat exchanger. The white ducting is just coroplast. This is a cheap Tru-Cool 48 row from RPW and it works fine, so a better cooler would work even better. Oil temperatures stay about 15-20 degs over the coolant temperature. You can also see the brake duct mount by the way, just to the right of the splitter brace.





Use a reducer of some sort for the NACA duct.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...43/Naca_Ducts2

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'd like another 10* cooler on the oil temps, but I'm fine where it is. It must move...the duct under the car is a disaster waiting to happen. I'm tired of cleaning **** out from under there and tired of the chuckles at the alignment shop...I don't blame them.

Thoughts on mounting it to the back of the intercooler, on the "cold side"? That air is roughly <= ambient+20.

Another interesting question is "what is the temp of the oil entering the cooler"? Is it higher than what my oil pan sensor reads, or lower? Logic tells me it's lower, but I don't know how much lower. I assume the oil is heated by friction and heat not absorbed by the water flowing through the engine, so is it getting hot from the oil pump or from it's lubrication function?

I could zip this to the radiator and it might not heat up the water that much if friction causes the heat, not pumping.

I have the old BEGi scooper out that I never used, it's about to get modded into something fancy. I'm going to make some drawings later, scan them, and see what you guys think.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Got coveted Miata parts?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I could do something like this in the passenger wheel well, mounting the cooler flush against the frame rail. The ducting could use the RB vent, turn the air, and avoid exposure to the wheel.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Where would it dump to? You'd be all up in the rad ducts at that point wouldn't you?


Just zip it to the radiator or the back of the cold side of the intercooler. Or put it back behind the RB bumper and put a screen between it and the tire like a permeable fender liner, lol.

The FD guys will some times put it in the side of the rad ducts so it dumps into the low pressure area behind the bumper like a pressure vent, but I imagine you wouldn't want to compromise your ducting at all.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I like that design, but wouldn't it hang pretty low to avoid the frame rail from blocking the airflow? Debris hitting my cooler has been a concern (even with wire mesh) - the last thing I want to happen is pierce the cooler, spew oil on track and tire, then wipe out coming into a hard brake zone or fast corner - or wipe someone else out (or both).

If it's gonna a huge PITA, you could always mount a fan to it and put it where you like - kinda like emilios defrost blower - but then you'd be putting a draw on the altenator, however, you could put a temp control switch on it and cut it on/off when you like.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I don't think it will work properly behind the intercooler without ducting. Air is already spreading around the intercooler and increasing restring flow. At some point the heat exchanger will stall if I put enough **** behind it. It very well could work, but I don't have the money or time to take chances on effectiveness, I need it to work properly the first time.

I have about 3" between the fender side of the frame rail and the heat exchanger ducting...which is sealed. A lot of people think the wheel well is low pressure, but I think there is enough turbulence in there from the tire spinning that it's high pressure.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Also, the EVO10 guys will v-mount a pair of oil coolers on either side of the radiator so that one dumps into the wheel well and one dumps under the car in front of the tire.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...anny-cool.aspx

If you layed your cooler flat and dumped it under the car you could use the ducts to shield it from thrown debris.

Or you could duct it like the intercoolers on the GT Auto Garage Time Attack GTR:

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...pro-class.aspx

hustler

iTrader: (6)

lol
I suppose I could dump it under the car. How far behind the leading edge of the bumper do I need to go to get a pressure differential?

I could build an exhaust duct behind the cooler and dump under the car.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Unfortunately I have less tire to bumper space than the EvoX...but this is looking like the best option. I can mount the cooler at 45* and save some space, the duct the inlet and duct an outlet that points down and protects the cooler.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3627

hustler

iTrader: (6)

So, I'm replacing the brace duct and doing something else for the oil cooler. It became clear that what I wanted for the brake sifting is not an option.