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Old 12-29-2015, 04:46 PM   #41
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-Johnny, I made the mistake of adding up all my costs in a excel spreadsheet, man that is a scary document hahaha

Well I'm currently waiting for the fedex man to come with my package. It's a couple of springs for my g27 brake and clutch pedal that I've heard good things about and the brake modulation on the stock g27 pedals sucks. I bought two sets since for my buddy and I, he's getting his as a christmas/birthday gift. I have to sign for the stupid package which means I'm stuck in the house until he gets here
Edit: Package just came, it was for my dad and he had shipped it in my name so I got all the emails from fedex. There's some time wasted haha

I never actually showed you guys those graphs of the gear ratio so here's the actual numbers, the column on the left is the speed and the column on the right is the rpms, the columns to the far right are the stock miata gearing. These are all considering a 245/40/15 and a close ratio t56 (except the stock miata obviously) If you can't figure out the graphs, well, you're hopeless. I normally upload my photos in 640x480 to make them browser friendly but it fucked with the graphs so I didn't this time.

So I'm really leaning towards 3.73 but if anyone feels like telling me I'm an idiot I'd appreciate it! I made graphs of 3.73 vs 3.42 and 3.73 vs 3.9 and then included the numbers for the graphs below.

Numbers:


3.73 vs 3.42:


3.73 vs 3.9
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:51 PM   #42
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261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:14 PM   #43
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My $.02 for an autocross car, and take it with a gigantic grain of salt - running hill climbs, in a car that weighed about another 600 lbs, I had a 4.11 gear with a 26" tall, 10" wide tire. Engine HP in the 400-450 ish range. First gear, useless. Second gear, useless. Third gear, spin on the shift, and then finally traction, going uphill.

You're talking a shorter, narrower tire. I think even with 3.73's, you're going to be struggling massively for traction. If it were me, I'd put in the 3.42's knowing you've got a monster torque band, and take advantage of not having to shift too early during your auto-x run.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:04 PM   #44
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don't go any lower than 3.27 rear gears. i changed from 3.09 to 3.27 and first gear is just about pointless. remember we have 23" tall tires not 26". so we can't listen to drag racers or corvette guys on this. i shift into 5th at 130 and lose a lot of acceleration, Daytona i hit 6th and it's a crawl to any increase in speed. i tick along on the freeway 80mph@2000rpm

i'm thinking about going the other way and running a 2.75 ratio. that way first gear will go to 60 and i wont need to shift for autocross. that and i can still hit 150 in 4th. but that's a different story.


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261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
nice

Last edited by OGRacing; 12-29-2015 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
261mph in a Miata should pull a premium at race warz
Yes it will hahaha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supe View Post
My $.02 for an autocross car, and take it with a gigantic grain of salt - running hill climbs, in a car that weighed about another 600 lbs, I had a 4.11 gear with a 26" tall, 10" wide tire. Engine HP in the 400-450 ish range. First gear, useless. Second gear, useless. Third gear, spin on the shift, and then finally traction, going uphill.

You're talking a shorter, narrower tire. I think even with 3.73's, you're going to be struggling massively for traction. If it were me, I'd put in the 3.42's knowing you've got a monster torque band, and take advantage of not having to shift too early during your auto-x run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OGRacing View Post
don't go any lower than 3.27 rear gears. i changed from 3.09 to 3.27 and first gear is just about pointless. remember we have 23" tall tires not 26". so we can't listen to drag racers or corvette guys on this. i shift into 5th at 130 and lose a lot of acceleration, Daytona i hit 6th and it's a crawl to any increase in speed. i tick along on the freeway 80mph@2000rpm

i'm thinking about going the other way and running a 2.75 ratio. that way first gear will go to 60 and i wont need to shift for autocross. that and i can still hit 150 in 4th. but that's a different story.
I had never really planned on having first gear as a useful gear since I've only heard horror stories of trying to use it. Second gear would give me a top of 67 which should be good for autox, and a top speed in 5th @ 162. The highest I've seen in the couple videos I just watched from the ridge was 160 which will probably be the main track I'll be going to. I figure I'm a much worse driver and that was a faster car so I shouldn't quite be reaching top speed in 5th. I'll ponder it some more, still have a month+ before purchase.

Got a little work done the last two days, had a couple of friends over that I hadn't seen in a while so that hindered work a little bit but it's all good. I got the transmission into the car so now I need to fab a mount for it. I also cleaned up my power steering rack and put that in. Then I cleaned up the inside of the car a little since there were metal shavings everywhere and I tidied up some other stuff. I also did a bit of welding on my buddies downpipe for his 1j, just needed a flange patched up. It was definitely nice to see my friends but I really want to get some more done on the car. As soon as my quart of por15 shows up I'm gonna go over some small stuff that needs to be re-done and then put a touch of seam sealer down. That should be the rest of the bodywork for a while.

I also need to extend a few wires on the holley harness, it fits great with the engine out of the car but it basically rubs between the firewall and engine when the engine is actually in the bay, which I'm not to big a fan of. I also put the fuel pump in yesterday, nothing too big but it's progress I guess, gonna start running the fuel lines today.

Pictures

Engine about to go in the car with the transmission:


Overhead shot of the engine sitting in the car and something in the shifter hole!:


Cleaning up the power steering rack:


Clean power steering rack:


Fuel pump:
Attached Thumbnails
Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1813_zpskmrwwiy9.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1815_zpsdxb8ud0s.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1816_zpshigzbpfi.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1817_zpsqxblzak2.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1819_zpsf5ehyyw7.jpg  

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Old 12-31-2015, 04:01 PM   #46
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What do you cover the por15 with?
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:04 PM   #47
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Quote:
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What do you cover the por15 with?
Everything.

Haha, basically anything I don't want to rust ever, so pretty much any bare metal or welds, it also makes a nice first coat. I'm mainly waiting on it for my spindles but there's a couple spots in the engine bay that need to be touched up with it before I can put some seam sealer down.

Edit: can't ******* read. Primer and then actual paint hahaha, at least if I remember right, my dad is the one that knows more about that stuff

Last edited by Scaxx; 12-31-2015 at 04:08 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:09 PM   #48
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No I mean what do you put over the por15
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:10 PM   #49
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Quote:
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No I mean what do you put over the por15
I got that ninja edit in haha, primer and paint
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:11 PM   #50
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what throw out bearing did you use. i'll give you a hint if it's anything other than oem or some $300 unit throw it away. i've fought the vato zone throw out bearings for years.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:20 PM   #51
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what throw out bearing did you use. i'll give you a hint if it's anything other than oem or some $300 unit throw it away. i've fought the vato zone throw out bearings for years.
Luckily none yet! I was actually looking at a tilton one, you guys may laugh at me for this but I'm also looking at their 7.25" button flywheel set up. I realize I'll probably regret it if I ever try to take it anywhere other than a track and I'm probably ruining any fun of having it on the street but that quick throttle response and speed that they rev at keeps pulling me back to wanting one. Of course there are milder set ups but unless I'm missing something with the tilton unit, it's much cheaper than something like a centerforce or mcleod which has a full flywheel. I don't know, still time to decide on that too, probably won't be buying the clutch set up for a little bit.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:52 PM   #52
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plenty of tilton clutches for cheap on ebay. they come off of stock cars. just get yourself a fresh set of clutch discs. and yea you will hate it on the street. i run a basic ls6 clutch and ACT flywheel good street manners and it's held up.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:50 PM   #53
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May want to give Cale Aronson a call and ask about what he can do for an ACE Powerforce setup. I paid a bit more than what a McLeod twin disc costs for a custom piece for my T101a, but I think they have off the shelf LS/T56 options. Very lightweight, incredible clamping power, but you can slip it like a street clutch. For me, this was mandatory, as our hill climb parking is limited and necessitates a lot of three point turns, not to mention loading on/off trailer without destroying it like a button clutch. It is smaller diameter than a regular clutch, and comes with an aluminum flywheel.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:20 AM   #54
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Quote:
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May want to give Cale Aronson a call and ask about what he can do for an ACE Powerforce setup. I paid a bit more than what a McLeod twin disc costs for a custom piece for my T101a, but I think they have off the shelf LS/T56 options. Very lightweight, incredible clamping power, but you can slip it like a street clutch. For me, this was mandatory, as our hill climb parking is limited and necessitates a lot of three point turns, not to mention loading on/off trailer without destroying it like a button clutch. It is smaller diameter than a regular clutch, and comes with an aluminum flywheel.
It would definitely be advantageous to be able to slip the clutch a little, I really need to do some calling around and talk to actual people in the industry more. I also don't need a super high torque capacity which I feel will help with finding something that is more streetable. It seems like every set up is meant to hold 800 ft*lb, all I need is about 450-500 right now and maybe 550ish down the line. I really don't plan on making crazy power out of the engine, I'd like to really just keep it more reliable. However I need to start watching how much money is going into the project more because I'm running out of time to get it running. I don't want to compromise on anything but I also don't want to spend money if I don't have to.

Well I got most the fuel lines done before my boss called me into work early, at least we're closed tomorrow. I have a couple questions since I'm not sure if I'm doing things wrong or if it was just designed to be that way. I've kinda found I'd rather buy my own parts and piece things together because I'll have a better understanding of it than if I buy a kit and try to decipher the instructions. Plus when I mix up power steering parts with the fuel parts bags it gets really confusing

Anyway, first question. What's this?:

Second question, is this how flyin miata designed this? To have one side be ss braided and the other just normal fuel line. Also I think this is where they wanted me to use the adapter, obviously it needs to be connected with some line, but it just seems kinda weird. This was the only place for it though and I've used all the other pieces so I guess it has to go there.


This is how things are mounted below, fuel filter is mounted loosely which is why it's at an awkward angle:




It seems like this is how they wanted it done and I would ask them but they're out on break so if I don't get it figured out by monday I'll give them a call. Just seems kinda tight between the tank and the chassis along with kind of a weird configuration. I honestly would have mounted it on the side with that bolt sticking out and then not used any angles on the lines, would have made things easier but whatever.

Oh and here's a fuel filter, yipee!
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Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1825_zpsm6vocvlv.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1823_zpszxqrxe8o.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1829_zpsryyysytn.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1827_zps4qnlks4q.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-img_1821_zpshprkzibj.jpg  

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Old 01-01-2016, 01:26 AM   #55
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Also screw new years eve, this holiday used to be filled with shenanigans and fireworks, now it's just a bunch of ********* getting drunk. I hate parties and I hate people, just want to work on the car. Anti-social engineer rant over.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:59 AM   #56
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Yeah. Rubber line there. It's the only way to get it to AN. Or just weld in some bulkhead fittings.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:05 PM   #57
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I actually bought all my fittings and lines for this mod.

Parts (omit some of the parts here)


Tank


Filter


You can get all of the fittings from Jegs/summit/amazon where ever you want or cheapest.

I'm local to you btw
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Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-photodec20214408.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-fe3dd7f1-46f0-4dc6-b43d-fe4eedfebe70.jpg   Ls3 build. Aero and Weight loss and Power! Oh my!-2a8cfb4b-1ea9-43ab-bdd8-b2de932a839f.jpg  
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:10 PM   #58
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He has an NA, you can't do that with NA fuel lines. Thats why you need the rubber lines.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:13 PM   #59
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He has an NA, you can't do that with NA fuel lines. Thats why you need the rubber lines.
are you sure on this?

cuz in order to do corvette filter in a NB, you needs to remove the in-tank pressure regulator, making it same as NA fuel system.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:15 PM   #60
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The hardlines are different. They don't use the quick release fittings.
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