Mini_FD '99 Flyin' Miata Turbo Build
#182
I've done a short search of items with only two sites so far. And of course if you see anything that I don't necessarily have to spend more money with my selection of items, please feel free to enlighten me with your opinion and point of view. This rebuild is my first built motor and motor I am picking parts for. I have a short amount of time to make decisions and need to start acting. If anyone sees a part for sale that is brand new, again pm me so I can save a little bit of franklins. Other then that, I hope everyone that follows me is as excited to see a new transformation once again this year from a Flyin' Miata Turbo II kit to CR01s to flares to a 6 speed and 3.9 gear ratio. You can only imagine how much I have invested into this car so far this year and yet still have not put in the basic roll bar, poly urethane bushings and Tein Flex rebuild.
I don't exactly know what power goals I'll achieve nor do I know what I want. All I want is to throw a lot at this motor and it be able to hold it. I also want the motor to last and be reliable for DD. My first action is to try to get the best of parts but that isn't always the right choice. So here's the list I have so far, and please contribute.
1.) J E Forged Pistons........................................... ........516.00
2.) K-1 H Beam Rods.............................................. ......383.00
3.) Intake Manly set............................................... ......138.00
4.) Exhaust Manly set............................................... ....138.00
5.) Under bucket lifters supertech shim...........................349.00
6.) Spring Set Eibach Heavy Duty dual spring Ti retainers...416.00
7.) Valve Seal Set Supertech......................................... ...12.50
8.) Race Bearing Set ACL............................................... 122.00
9.) ARP Studs Head/Main.............................................. .229.00
10.) Harmonic Balancer ATI 4T..........................................524.00
11.) Billet Oil Pump Boundary Race Pump...........................549.00
12.) Cometic Head Gasket............................................ .....91.17
13.) Gates Timing Components Blue..................................105.00
14.) 3D Cast Water Pump 949............................................57. 00
I have not found a complete set of Oil seals yet but I am wanting to go with Oem. If anyone else sees what I need that might be missing please add.
I am getting a MSM Intake Cam and I get a 25 percent discount at my local mazda dealership so Im not exactly sure how much it is going to cost me.
I don't exactly know what power goals I'll achieve nor do I know what I want. All I want is to throw a lot at this motor and it be able to hold it. I also want the motor to last and be reliable for DD. My first action is to try to get the best of parts but that isn't always the right choice. So here's the list I have so far, and please contribute.
1.) J E Forged Pistons........................................... ........516.00
2.) K-1 H Beam Rods.............................................. ......383.00
3.) Intake Manly set............................................... ......138.00
4.) Exhaust Manly set............................................... ....138.00
5.) Under bucket lifters supertech shim...........................349.00
6.) Spring Set Eibach Heavy Duty dual spring Ti retainers...416.00
7.) Valve Seal Set Supertech......................................... ...12.50
8.) Race Bearing Set ACL............................................... 122.00
9.) ARP Studs Head/Main.............................................. .229.00
10.) Harmonic Balancer ATI 4T..........................................524.00
11.) Billet Oil Pump Boundary Race Pump...........................549.00
12.) Cometic Head Gasket............................................ .....91.17
13.) Gates Timing Components Blue..................................105.00
14.) 3D Cast Water Pump 949............................................57. 00
I have not found a complete set of Oil seals yet but I am wanting to go with Oem. If anyone else sees what I need that might be missing please add.
I am getting a MSM Intake Cam and I get a 25 percent discount at my local mazda dealership so Im not exactly sure how much it is going to cost me.
#183
Joyfast bolts came in from Joyfast. They will be installed on the painted Valve cover.
DSC01049 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr
DSC01049 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr
#184
I need the community's help because this is becoming a bit overwhelming. I have more respect for engine builders since I'm searching for parts and sourcing them for myself and its getting me a little be of anxiety.
Okay so I have a list that is currently being modified from the one before. I'm going off of another's personal experience with some of these items I have listed.
Supertech 83.5 8.6 to 1 pistons
K1 Rods
ACL bearings and washers
ARP Studs
Super tech valves
Gates kevlar timing belt
fresh valve springs "oem" were thinking that the supertech valve springs might be overkill and rob power because we are not using aftermarket cams correct me on this idea if i need to be directed
Also Please help me make sure I have every seal that i may need for the rebuild. Ive done my search and I might be missing some.
Water pump mounting gasket B6BF-15-116
water pump inlet B366-15-165
oil pump pick up tube seal 9954-10-0906
(2) oil pan seals BF4-10-427 B6F4-10-428
Front Crank Seal B3C7-10-602A
Rear Main Seal BP05-11-312
Valve Cover BP0510235C
Idle air control valve gasket "partial torn" BP2413W89
REar Water Outlet gasket {dont have the part number}
Throttle body gasket B6BF13655
(2) Cam Seals FS05-10-602A
Oil Cooler ring {dont have the part number}
PCV Seal E301-13-338A
Crank Angle Seal { dont have the part number}
-----do i need a oil strainer if Im getting a race/street boundary oil pump and gear?
Rear main seal housing????? B36611310C
Oil Control Valve case ???? BP6D10660D
What am I missing besides a head gasket, hondata intake gasket, exhuast gasket.
Okay so I have a list that is currently being modified from the one before. I'm going off of another's personal experience with some of these items I have listed.
Supertech 83.5 8.6 to 1 pistons
K1 Rods
ACL bearings and washers
ARP Studs
Super tech valves
Gates kevlar timing belt
fresh valve springs "oem" were thinking that the supertech valve springs might be overkill and rob power because we are not using aftermarket cams correct me on this idea if i need to be directed
Also Please help me make sure I have every seal that i may need for the rebuild. Ive done my search and I might be missing some.
Water pump mounting gasket B6BF-15-116
water pump inlet B366-15-165
oil pump pick up tube seal 9954-10-0906
(2) oil pan seals BF4-10-427 B6F4-10-428
Front Crank Seal B3C7-10-602A
Rear Main Seal BP05-11-312
Valve Cover BP0510235C
Idle air control valve gasket "partial torn" BP2413W89
REar Water Outlet gasket {dont have the part number}
Throttle body gasket B6BF13655
(2) Cam Seals FS05-10-602A
Oil Cooler ring {dont have the part number}
PCV Seal E301-13-338A
Crank Angle Seal { dont have the part number}
-----do i need a oil strainer if Im getting a race/street boundary oil pump and gear?
Rear main seal housing????? B36611310C
Oil Control Valve case ???? BP6D10660D
What am I missing besides a head gasket, hondata intake gasket, exhuast gasket.
#189
No I will make one though
Since to rebuild the motor to what I want I was seeing what cards I have other then the rebuild. So I was think of using that 8200 and selling my car to get a fd. Now I already know they are more expensive for a clean oem turn key.
The color option will be in this order: Montego blue, brilliant black, red
Since to rebuild the motor to what I want I was seeing what cards I have other then the rebuild. So I was think of using that 8200 and selling my car to get a fd. Now I already know they are more expensive for a clean oem turn key.
The color option will be in this order: Montego blue, brilliant black, red
#191
Basically a full race build. Weight match pistons/rods, balance the rotating assembly, check and adjust if needed all bearing clearances. Fix any mass production issues in the cylinder head (porting work but not anything crazy as that typically does more harm than good), competition valve job, and set underfollower valve lash
#192
so you either go all out or abandon ship altogether?
I'm not criticizing, because I love FD's, but seems kinda drastic to me.
People around here are putting together 4k long blocks (maybe 5k if you're in a terrible location with no machine shops) relatively painlessly.
Just seems weird. Unless you're just not into miata's in the 1st place and just need an excuse to switch to the FD
I'm not criticizing, because I love FD's, but seems kinda drastic to me.
People around here are putting together 4k long blocks (maybe 5k if you're in a terrible location with no machine shops) relatively painlessly.
Just seems weird. Unless you're just not into miata's in the 1st place and just need an excuse to switch to the FD
#195
Well, it does seem to be all in or nothing. I'm wanted to look at the bigger picture of things to see where my money can be most effective. They only other car that can distract me from my miata is a fd. If I can't get a fd, then the miata is where my happiness lies. I have had the miata for 4 years almost 5 now. And I already have a 10ae on 15x8 cr01s and jdm Mazda speed wing fully rebuilt motor two months ago with fresh paint. And having two convertibles and an 06 A6 which is going to be traded in for a new A6, the miata isn't on top of my list to keep around.
I can only get an fd if I sell my car first and my budget for an fd is 20k turn key.
I can only get an fd if I sell my car first and my budget for an fd is 20k turn key.