My KLLKITHAPU build.
06-25-2014, 12:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
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This is my kinda looks like Kirby if the Headlights are popped up. (KLLKITHAPU). I got this car so I could do my college auto classes with something to do. Hey, if another classmate is building his 600+ AWHP Audi S4 in the classes AND gaining credit to do so. Why not me in the Kirby car? Here it is. 210k + Miles, original top. But in good condition. Hopefully I can fit a Roll bar WITH a welded in Harness bar due to the fact I have a glass rear window. I heard it was possible. I'm going to build it for the track mostly. Not really into a cruiser or a garage queen (if you can call it that). Unlike other things, racing never goes out of style. Function=Form for me.
My plans are as follows. Built long block. Forced induction of SOME kind. Mega squirt PNP ECU. New seat. (Cheap Authentic FIA Approved bucket seat.) New steering wheel. A crapton of bracing. Willwood BBK. (Hopefully.) Still deciding on coilovers. ETC.
I went in to rebuild the shifter, change the tranny fluid and diff fluid. I bought the entire shifter kit to do so from 5xracing, Instead of the plastic bushing that goes at the end of the shifter I bought the bronze bushing instead to reduce shifter play. Wasn't expecting much going into this.
[IMG]annoying gif #1[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/
O....kay. I understand that both these shifter boots go bad in these cars constantly. But these boots looked original to the car. The upper one. Shown above. And a smaller one below sealing the shifter turret. Both were obliterated. Here's a side by side between the new and old Upper boot.
Oh well. I was Glad to do this now than later. I took off the lower boot to look at the condition of the turret fluid. There should be about 4 Ounces of fluid in there. Or enough to just cover the shifting mechanism.
[IMG]annoying gif #2[IMG]
Nothing. As dry as a chick who's paying for dinner. It's a good chance that this is the first time this transmission (and diff.) has been serviced in its lifetime. Both the Trans and diff fluid were dark brown. It looked like feces. Here's a pic of the shifter itself with the lower boot still attached. The thread on the shifter are cross threaded but I don't mind this YET because my shift **** still fits tightly on it. When The time comes, I'll replace that as well.
The plastic anti rotation bushing had literally disintegrated. Here is a pic of what was left of it after picking it out of the shifter itself.
I don't have any pics after that. But after everything was put together. OMG. The shifting was...the same. Huh. Don't get me wrong the new Bronze bushing and the new OEM parts really made everything tighter overall. BUT. I wanted my shifting to get smoother with the new fluid in the trans (and shifter turret.) I was kinda disappointing. Fast forward about two weeks and the shifting has MASSIVELY improved since then. All that was needed was the new fluid working its way into the syncros by driving it a lot. I am happy. The fluid I used was Redline MT-90 GL4 for the trans and Redline 70w90 for the diff. Both are Synthetic. Got new parts yo homie ballin keepin it real yolo hayhay.
Flyin Miata Frame Rail reinforcements, Clutch hydraulic rebuild kit including steel braided hose. A new speedo cable and stickers. STICKERS!
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/annoying gif #...3?[IMG]
[IMG]lots more annoying gifs[IMG]
That was my reaction while driving the car with the FM braces for the first time. Get these. Seriously. The two main reasons I bought this were to PROTECT the frame rails and also stiffen the chassis. I also replaced the speedo cable so not its a lot quieter and the needle no longer does the goofy goober. Got more parts shizzle for your nizzle. NGK Iridium Plugs and NGK Wires. I also got some Mazda competition motor mounts, but I dun goofed and ordered only one by accident.
[IMG]guess what this was[IMG]
So I changed the plugs and wires.
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/and again...[IMG]
I was very suprised on how much of a difference this made. And I'm planning on going COP's in the future. Not the show though. So much smoother and a VERY noticeable increase in power as well.
My plans are as follows. Built long block. Forced induction of SOME kind. Mega squirt PNP ECU. New seat. (Cheap Authentic FIA Approved bucket seat.) New steering wheel. A crapton of bracing. Willwood BBK. (Hopefully.) Still deciding on coilovers. ETC.
I went in to rebuild the shifter, change the tranny fluid and diff fluid. I bought the entire shifter kit to do so from 5xracing, Instead of the plastic bushing that goes at the end of the shifter I bought the bronze bushing instead to reduce shifter play. Wasn't expecting much going into this.
[IMG]annoying gif #1[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/
O....kay. I understand that both these shifter boots go bad in these cars constantly. But these boots looked original to the car. The upper one. Shown above. And a smaller one below sealing the shifter turret. Both were obliterated. Here's a side by side between the new and old Upper boot.
Oh well. I was Glad to do this now than later. I took off the lower boot to look at the condition of the turret fluid. There should be about 4 Ounces of fluid in there. Or enough to just cover the shifting mechanism.
[IMG]annoying gif #2[IMG]
Nothing. As dry as a chick who's paying for dinner. It's a good chance that this is the first time this transmission (and diff.) has been serviced in its lifetime. Both the Trans and diff fluid were dark brown. It looked like feces. Here's a pic of the shifter itself with the lower boot still attached. The thread on the shifter are cross threaded but I don't mind this YET because my shift **** still fits tightly on it. When The time comes, I'll replace that as well.
The plastic anti rotation bushing had literally disintegrated. Here is a pic of what was left of it after picking it out of the shifter itself.
I don't have any pics after that. But after everything was put together. OMG. The shifting was...the same. Huh. Don't get me wrong the new Bronze bushing and the new OEM parts really made everything tighter overall. BUT. I wanted my shifting to get smoother with the new fluid in the trans (and shifter turret.) I was kinda disappointing. Fast forward about two weeks and the shifting has MASSIVELY improved since then. All that was needed was the new fluid working its way into the syncros by driving it a lot. I am happy. The fluid I used was Redline MT-90 GL4 for the trans and Redline 70w90 for the diff. Both are Synthetic. Got new parts yo homie ballin keepin it real yolo hayhay.
Flyin Miata Frame Rail reinforcements, Clutch hydraulic rebuild kit including steel braided hose. A new speedo cable and stickers. STICKERS!
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/annoying gif #...3?[IMG]
[IMG]lots more annoying gifs[IMG]
That was my reaction while driving the car with the FM braces for the first time. Get these. Seriously. The two main reasons I bought this were to PROTECT the frame rails and also stiffen the chassis. I also replaced the speedo cable so not its a lot quieter and the needle no longer does the goofy goober. Got more parts shizzle for your nizzle. NGK Iridium Plugs and NGK Wires. I also got some Mazda competition motor mounts, but I dun goofed and ordered only one by accident.
[IMG]guess what this was[IMG]
So I changed the plugs and wires.
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/my-kllkithapu-build-79717/and again...[IMG]
I was very suprised on how much of a difference this made. And I'm planning on going COP's in the future. Not the show though. So much smoother and a VERY noticeable increase in power as well.
Last edited by curly; 06-25-2014 at 01:25 PM. Reason: spamming for post count?
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06-25-2014, 01:24 PM
#9
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Fine then. I'm just trying to make it as detailed as I can with my own twist.. For a forum with a cat inside of a turbo as it's Symbol...you guys really don't want any humor whatsoever.
Don't expect this thread to contain 'Cheap' parts. Or 'Race inspired' parts. (I'll have an FIA approved seat in the car, not one that LOOKS like one.)
I'm buying stuff that will work hopefully the first time I put them in the car.
The only Riceland part I even consider putting in the car is the header. People have had luck with it.
If my only priority is to go really low and drive slowly to avoid a stray poptart on the road. Riceland coils are for me I guess.
However since I want to track this car eventually. I'll go higher quality.
You guys need to lighten up some.
Don't expect this thread to contain 'Cheap' parts. Or 'Race inspired' parts. (I'll have an FIA approved seat in the car, not one that LOOKS like one.)
I'm buying stuff that will work hopefully the first time I put them in the car.
The only Riceland part I even consider putting in the car is the header. People have had luck with it.
If my only priority is to go really low and drive slowly to avoid a stray poptart on the road. Riceland coils are for me I guess.
However since I want to track this car eventually. I'll go higher quality.
You guys need to lighten up some.
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06-25-2014, 07:44 PM
#15
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...
I never said I would put one on the car. Especially if I were to go F/I.
You know what? Forget it. I see I'm not welcome here.
You guys win. I'll stop my project on this forum.
Last edited by Braineack; 06-26-2014 at 02:54 PM.
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