Pat's Ebay Turbo Compound Boost Build
03-01-2016, 05:16 PM
#602
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you go underneath the dash, undo the 17mm nut and thread the switch back/forward and adjust it.
fm has some instructions about it too (it's included with their clutch kit)
.......I honestly don't think you're gonna "save" your drivetrain with that much power/torque either way. but ok do what you will.
my settings for lc/ffs are similar to aidans/deezums I think. in that thread. let me see
fm has some instructions about it too (it's included with their clutch kit)
.......I honestly don't think you're gonna "save" your drivetrain with that much power/torque either way. but ok do what you will.
my settings for lc/ffs are similar to aidans/deezums I think. in that thread. let me see
Maybe save isn't the best word. But anything that I can do that will help keep the drivetrain alive, I'm listening. I know barking 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with drag radials means the flat shift settings are off. And they were off when I broke an axle. I'm going to try to get them setup as to minimize drivetrain shock as much as possible. I like your VSS idea, that's getting hooked up!
glade- I'll have to look into those, don't know much about them. I don't think my clutch would like slipping much, but it's also pretty cheap to replace if it dies vs a diff or transmission. I'll look into that.
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03-01-2016, 06:53 PM
#605
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Light flywheels help shifts but hurt launches. Light flywheels reduce the pulse smoothing effects of the flywheel, increasing the likelihood of transmission failure in high power cars. If our transmissions weren't already trouble I would say go for it.
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03-01-2016, 07:03 PM
#608
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moar boost = moar air flow, moar airflow = moar power. If you are making boost then your engine is making power.
Unless you are able to retard spark so ridiculously late that your ignition event happens with an open exhaust valve. Wonder if that would work...
You're ebay turbo would go byby pretty quick.
Unless you are able to retard spark so ridiculously late that your ignition event happens with an open exhaust valve. Wonder if that would work...
You're ebay turbo would go byby pretty quick.
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03-01-2016, 07:05 PM
#610
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Is there a reason to not just put in a proper rear end? If you are already making 500whp and plan on turning it up at what point will the internals of the dif its self blow apart?
Monster miata seems to have a pretty cheap setup and if somehow you do break axles once you have it all in then they are only $450 for another set.
That and youd be able to easily re gear the car to match the new power better if you felt the need to.
Monster miata seems to have a pretty cheap setup and if somehow you do break axles once you have it all in then they are only $450 for another set.
That and youd be able to easily re gear the car to match the new power better if you felt the need to.
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03-01-2016, 07:23 PM
#612
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Also keeping the stock flywheel for reasons already mentioned, mainly transmission life. No way this trans would live with a light weight flywheel given what I'm doing to it.
And yes just having fun and seeing what these parts will take. These parts bolt right in, and I have spares, so why not.
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03-01-2016, 07:35 PM
#614
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It's not silly, anything that will improve reliability or make it faster, I'm interested. 
These do wrinkle some, just not as much as a slick. I air them down to 16 PSI when I race.
Plus I already have drag radials, and swapping at the track means I need at minimum, two tires/wheels and a jack. Jack would fit in trunk, tires would not fit anywhere. There's an obvious problem here, and the "solutions" suck.
These do wrinkle some, just not as much as a slick. I air them down to 16 PSI when I race. Plus I already have drag radials, and swapping at the track means I need at minimum, two tires/wheels and a jack. Jack would fit in trunk, tires would not fit anywhere. There's an obvious problem here, and the "solutions" suck.
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