Well I had fuel leak problems today for the millionth time now... After a while I realized that I may have hooked up the wrong hoses to that fuel pressure switch the NAs have, which can lead to higher rail pressure according to a m.net thread I came across.
Anyhooters I came with with a vato-ghetto-homie fix. I T'ed off the feed fuel line and used a hose to set up the fpr and the return line. I figure that this should alllow the fpr to do its function, but I don't plan on living it as so.
I'll take pics tomorrow so we can
Also I am looking for a NB fuel rail that has the fpr port in the front of the rail. If anyone has one hook a vato up.
So it appears the car is not going anywhere. The plan now is not make it a bit less annoying. I finally outgrew the straight pipe thing and I am looking to quite down the car a bit by adding one of those large straight through Magnaflow. Hopefully now I wont get a headache every time I drive the car over a long distance.
Also aside from the Traceline oil dye what other product is recommended to pin-point oil leaks?
So I finally got to do something with my car. I used the oil dye to try to pin point an oil leak. I discovered a trail of oil right in between the ridges in this picture
I went ahead and opened the engine with the opinion that it was the main front. When I got to the main front this is what I found
There was no trail from the seat itself. However, I then discovered a little puddle of oil right below the water pump (see pic).
I then said it has to the be the cam seals. I went ahead and remove the cams to find the seal with no real evidence of leaking. The cam seals were the only ones that I had not replaced previously so I went ahead and changed them.
The question now is what the hell do I do? where is this leak coming from? should I replace the main front?
Just had a similar problem with my dads car. It was the cam seals leaking down the back of the upper timing cover backing plate. Replaced all seals, cam and crank as well as the valve cover gasket just in case. Boom problem solved.
I forgot to update this, but I reset the timing in megasquirt. There are two things that are concerning me now. First is that that I had add a lot of fuel to the idling cells after the timing was readjusted. My idling cells went from about 42/44 to 58/60 in order to maintain a ~14.x afr. Second I pulled the car out of my driveway and tried to drive it, but it felt as if it was running not on all cylinders. There's a lot of movement in the engine. So I just parked it again.
Any opinions? I'll go out and tune the VE table a bit more later when it cools down a bit. Attached is the current tune.
I finally decided to do something about that red fender on my car. I took some duplicolor spray can and paint it white. The duplicolor white should be close/similar to the stock color, but not a perfect match. I really just wanted to be all white even if it's different shades. I took some pics this afternoon when I started. I'm leaving the fender and trunk lid rest overnight. I'll update pictures in the morning with the final product.
Also, in the mail are mazda comp engine mounts!!! No more rocking engine yay!!
The color difference is not that much. The door is from another car and thus makes the fender a bid dull, but it goes well with the rest of the car. The fender is smooth and overall very well for a spray can job. The trunk in the other had is not that great. I had problems with a nozzle that came off the can while spraying. After all, the short term goal was achieved. The car it all white now yay