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Old 02-09-2015, 01:40 PM   #1361
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Its amazing how easily a sawzall cuts through those things. I was planning on borrowing a friends plasma cutter just for fun but it was totally unnecessary.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:52 PM   #1362
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Definitely sad. After I finished unloading the scrap at the yard this morning I almost snapped a photo but felt a bit sad for that.

That's part of the reason I want to build this new car properly. I will paint it and make it look good. I know it may very well get messed up, but it's maybe some kind of tribute to Rico. Miss that car.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:08 PM   #1363
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Ed if you still have the truck and a day off, I think I could take the engine today, if you're feeling up to it.
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:02 PM   #1364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Very nice Ed! Now that poor 10ae can dry off and await it's raping.

Your primary job for the next 1-20 year is to organize that garage for the 10ae build. And sell sell sell. Which goes along with organizing cause it gets rid of stuff.

5 Steps for organizing:

1. Sorting: Identify waste from keepable stuff, in your case I'd sort into waste, metal recycling, parts to sell, parts to keep.
2. Systematic Arrangement (organizing)*: Now that you have piles of sorted stuff, deal with it. Trash the waste, recycle the metal, and use those awesome shelves to organize the sellable and keepable stuff.
3. Shine: This is when you actually sweep, use paper towels and simple green to clean up oil stains, etc.
4. Standardize: This goes along with step #5, but identify issues with keeping your space clean. Is your fire wood spreading debris everywhere? Make a storage box out of 2x4 and plywood for it. Label tool drawers, make a spot for all cleaning supplies. The list goes on.
5. Sustain: THE hardest step of all. Make a plan like: last half hour before dead line is spent putting **** away, or: if can't find tool for 10 minutes, clean. That sorta thing. Some mornings when I have an hour free it's just spent cleaning, and doing a quick run through of steps 1-4, I often find stuff I can trash or recycle that's just taking up room.

*translated from Japanese, that steps a little wordy to keep it as an S.

Not sure why I typed all that out. But have fun, the hard parts over!
This saved my bacon many a times when I went through my build. If you find yourself getting frustrated with the car just stop for a while and organize. Guarantee you will feel more up the working on the car car again when your garage is shiny.

Awesome work cutting up the car, sad though... :(
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:18 PM   #1365
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I just drag dead ones onto the trailer using a ATV winch on my trailer using 4x4 as skids.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:14 AM   #1366
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Having an ATV, giant trailer, and room to do so would be awesome.

For some reason I see your shells sitting in a dirt field, or in front of a barn on a dirt driveway. Sounds easy enough.

We have no ATV, no trailer, and lots of cement to be damaged by dragging. I do believe this is the easiest method with the tools available. Would love the trailer, ATV, and lots of room with no judging neighbors, but alas...
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:54 AM   #1367
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The actual cutting of the shell took less than two hours including the windshield removal and trying to figure out how to not hurt ourselves when it fell apart on the jack stands. Not too bad and no need to rent a trailer (no place to store a trailer here).
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Old 02-10-2015, 03:42 AM   #1368
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Bore's didnt show any signs that would lead to low compression. Medium carbon buildup on #4. Its either rings on 2 and 3, headgasket (not likely as evidence suggests otherwise) or forged pistons. Compression test was done cold with forged pistons so its hard to say for sure. (at least in the subaru world) I'd ask the shop that built your engine and see what they say.

On a budget =new headgasket. Risk=pulling the engine again for bottom end rebuild/ Timeline for Miata thrashing extended.

Low risk option=Rebuild bottom end / head via reputable shop (both have plenty of life for re-surfacing based on what i've seen) Cost= $$
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:29 AM   #1369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
The actual cutting of the shell took less than two hours including the windshield removal and trying to figure out how to not hurt ourselves when it fell apart on the jack stands. Not too bad and no need to rent a trailer (no place to store a trailer here).
Lol, we spent no time figuring out how to not hurt ourselves, we just got lucky.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:57 AM   #1370
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****. Yank looks like me, has the same name as me, seems to be familiar with a sawzall like me, and likes F-motors like me.

IT'S WEST COAST ME.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:43 PM   #1371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Having an ATV, giant trailer, and room to do so would be awesome.

For some reason I see your shells sitting in a dirt field, or in front of a barn on a dirt driveway. Sounds easy enough.

We have no ATV, no trailer, and lots of cement to be damaged by dragging. I do believe this is the easiest method with the tools available. Would love the trailer, ATV, and lots of room with no judging neighbors, but alas...
I don't have an actual ATV. I just got a Harbor Freight ATV winch (rated to 2500lb, I think) and mounted it to my open deck 16ft trailer. All shells are disassembled in the garage when there is space and then I winch them onto the trailer to go to the scrap yard. I live in a small "starter home" neighborhood outside of city limits. I do my best to keep parts/scrap from sitting outside too long out of respect for my neighbors (some of whom have more than I).
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:12 PM   #1372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Lol, we spent no time figuring out how to not hurt ourselves, we just got lucky.
Ha don't you remember right before we completed the cut at the rear of the passenger compartment? We paused and were like "OK... How are we going to keep from this thing falling off the jack stands and smashing feet when we complete this cut?" Repositioned the jack stands and stuff.

And we got lucky. ha.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:18 PM   #1373
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OK so I've been kicking around the idea of switching to an EFR 6258 because it's beautiful and I luff it. I'm sure you've all seen 99mx5's dyno thread and plot. I did some comparing.... First his:


Revs & Lb-ft
2500 RPM = 102
3k rpm = 145
3500 RPM =165
4k rpm = 210 lb ft maybe? And that 4k number should be at full 23-24 psi boost.

Now my graph again.


Obviously the peaks are a lot lower, but I frankly don't care because 317 whp was PLENTY (and there's room for more anyway). BUT...

2500 RPM = 105?
3k rpm = 150
3500 RPM= 165-170?
4k rpm = 225

Obviously the dynos aren't the same, and different elevations (Mine was at about 140 ft above sea level... ha...) but it really seems like in terms of spool the 2871 is really solid.

Now... lag when already at 4k rpm and you punch it? Different story I'm sure. I think I just need to COOL IT and run my trubo.

Oh yeah... My plans to run NA? Probably not going to happen
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:23 PM   #1374
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Just wait until I build an efr manifold and I'll just make 2. Gimme a year before I get bored of the 1.6+td04
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:28 PM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
I think I just need to COOL IT and run my trubo.

Oh yeah... My plans to run NA? Probably not going to happen
I support both of these statements

If the 2871 is feeling too big, why not 2860RS? Are there different A/R turbine housings for the 2871? Smaller one might give you more response at the expense of top end.

Do you have the fancy Tial housing or is that Jeffbucc? Can never keep all these things straight.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:30 PM   #1376
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I have the fancy tial housing, jeff's was just a regular housing IIRC.

I wouldn't switch to the 2860. Too similar. If I'm changing turbos, it's to a 6258 or maybe, MAYBE a 2560.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:49 PM   #1377
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Does someone make a v-band housing 2560? I thought the Tial housing only fit the GT28xxR series turbos Sounds like the 2560 will necessitate rebuilding the manifold and downpipe. The easy button would be the Flyin' Miata DIY turbo manifold/outlet/downpipe + GT2560R = $1700 + incidentals.

The EFR 6258 is $1540 by itself before you even touch a manifold and downpipe, and honestly you are not going to make a whole crapload more than you are right now. Not to be a complete *** about it, but perhaps more power is not exactly what you need

So yeah, maybe COOL IT and fine tune what you already have. Maybe its time to experiment with a dual port EWG/ 4 port EBC and see if you can find some more response. Ian and I are going to start fiddling with it (I will be IWG though) when our cars are back together. It would be nice to see some more folks playing with this setup as well.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:59 PM   #1378
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The 6258 ain't about more power, it's about better, more linear response. I'll run minimum boost and less tire and just learn to drive. It'll be sweet. Back to my very original Plan A.

I'm done spending money on these parts for the time being. I have everything I need to put it back together (I think). I also think I'm going to just make the NB2 headlights work with the NB1 front bumper and if I hate it then I'll wait til I stumble upon an NB2 bumper, then just get it painted to match.

Easy button.

Onward and upward, gents.
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Old 02-13-2015, 10:02 PM   #1379
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Quote:
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I'm done spending money.

Easy button.

Onward and upward, gents.
Quoted for proof when you change your mind tomorrow.
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Old 02-13-2015, 10:35 PM   #1380
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Quoted for proof when you change your mind tomorrow.
I don't want to think about how many times I said that throughout my build.
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