hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Ahhhhhh . . . Summer welding.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Boys, its arts and crafts time.

This was funny. I chucked this piece up on the nut so as the bit grabbed the piece, it would tighten. That is of course assuming you cut in front of the spindle centerline. I had that boring bar already mounted and being a left handed tool I had to turn from the back side and run in reverse. Which means the bolt instantly loosened and bent and threw the piece lol.






I cut a land in the back side and "brushed" the front.






Painted the gold hands black. I hate gold. The color, not the metal. This is the stock replacement exedy that came with the car.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

yay, I have approval from all 4 parties I can install it now!

I removed the friction ring from the PP, because its heavy. Pushpin and drywall is what I was after.

So pics, since I know some of you dont dissect your clutch after replacement

Back side of friction ring. You can see a balancing drill spot right near the "5L" lettering.




Ill pull my F1 apart when it gets removed here soon and see if they get the same treatment.


This is interesting construction to me. The spring pivots on that wire hoop held in by the riveted pins.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

chinese/ebay v bands FTW!




I got the right size band clamp in. I cut down the stock exhaust brace and welded a piece of 1" angle to it, holes, etc.




It works great.



when I go to wrap the dp, should I just stop at the band clamp? or should I clamp over the wrap with a larger clamp?


I also got to bend my hood prop back into a straight line! For those just joining us, I had to bend it around the DIY NA intake I had made for it. Its nice to get those few extra "s back.




I wasnt able to fit the IAT into the intercooler end tank. There is just no room the way I have it mounted. So I drilled and tapped the aluminum 45 right after the silicone 90 elbow coming out of the intercooler. The sensor is just outside the flow path of the air exiting the rad, but we will have to see how heat soak does.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Twinning!</p><p></p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Awesome!

The design of your clamp works better for this. if you dont preload the clamp up against the angle iron with mine, the clamp preloads the pipe when you cinch everything down. Through bolting may help.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Kind of. Those top bolts are im-*******-possible to reach. So the brace never gets disconnected from the downpipe. The design was good, just not enough room.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Also, do you just buy kawi green by the gallon?</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Mine arent the easiest, but it doesnt take more than a minute. Its now the hardest part of my DP removal/install.

Yes.




















The most recent Nissan I built.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>You have a problem.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

3" mid pipe bitches




Diff and brace clearance is perfect. I was worried about this part, but it came out really well. The lowest part of the exhaust where it dips down to clear the axle flange is at the same height as the PPF bolts, and just a little above the frame rail plane. Which means very little chance of ever scraping.









With the heat sleeve on the heater hose, it now kinks coming off the firewall the way I have to make it bend. Routing it around the other side of the turbo near the fenderwell is so unclean to me. I have an elbow im going to try and splice in and see if I can keep the routing I want.




Still need to finish weld everything rear of the flex coupler, weld on hangers using the stock mounts, hopefully, and weld on the muffler and a tip. Then I can rewire the IAT at the boomslang, and tune.

edit- received my 35ft of 2" titanium wrap from ebay, need to do that too.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Curly's car:
<br />
<br />
<br />My car:
<br />
<br />

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

The way yours is routed is my plan B.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Remember, mine goes to a T in the lower rad hose. Not the mixing manifold.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Ive already mocked it up, it would return right under the turbo and become part of the octopus. I have a few old hoses laying around with 90s in them, ill come up with something. luckily I went way oversize on the heat sheath at 1-1/4" so it should fit over any hose clamps too.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Also, I just got home from driving around for an hour and a half looking for these things:




I thought they would be common, apparently not. Im going to see if one of the exhaust shops around has any they can hook me up with. If not, im going to go buy some 5/16"(or whatever size it is) rod and just bend the ends like this one:

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Rebar and weld blobs.
<br />Cool trick I saw with artechs stuff was 3 weld blobs on a rod and it makes an end. Looks cool too.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Im not down with the western theme, but weld blobs occured to me after I posted, thatll work.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

This is just for you Aidan.





I managed to reuse the stock muffler hanger, and ended up making one more. All I had on hand was some 5/8"" stock laying around, so i turned an 8" length down to 3/8", welded on some blobs, cleaned up and chamfered on the lathe.

I made a bender die lol










Wrapping the DP next, then im going to "permanently" install everything.