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Old 07-27-2015, 08:13 PM   #481
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Now that you mention it, i think youve told me that before.

The most challenging stuff ive worked with was 304, maybe it was 316... Im not experienced so it was difficult to say the least. Ive heard what a bitch the nickel super alloys can be even compared to 304. I was happy to find 750x as it is supposed to one of the easiest to machine among the inconels.


I did some reasearch and found this wonderful publication. Look at the "work hardening graph" on page one. youll see how 750 approximates 304SS.
http://www.specialmetals.com/assets/smw_docs/Mach.pdf

Another benefit is, the linear CTE of 750 is almost identical to 1018.

X-750 Data Sheet

And heres a decent article on thermal creep.
Creep and Creep Failures
304 is a bugger, it's not as free machining as 303 so it likes to gum up cutters so chip evacuation is pretty important. You can't piddle around milling it either, as it and the chips will harden up and start destroying cutters. Weldments are usually 304, those big *** chicken winging machines I built were all 304. Lots of full depth slot and hole milling, sucked bad..

Failure of a HSS roughing mill is pretty spectacular, it starts smoking a bit more, then a little more, then it's on fire melted on the table after a loud bang. Don't bother trying to save that part, hehe, the heat it made beforehand means you'll cook some cutters trying to get back where you were! 316 and 304 are pretty similar in that regard.

I really liked turning monel 400, it's got a beautiful metallic finish when you get it going right. K500 has to be annealed and once we figured that process out it wasn't all that bad. More than anything you just need to make proper sized chips with the right spindle speed which keeps heat on the tool and workpiece down, really the same process for any material when it comes down to it.

I doubt you'd have a problem turning some yourself if you had to
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:54 PM   #482
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416 is the **** if you need to machine stainless steel, 1146 is the **** if you want to machine non-stainless steel. **** a whole bunch of welding either of them.
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Old 07-28-2015, 05:51 AM   #483
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Have you got a copy of the dimensions on that water inlet adapter to share, Sean? I need to replace my coolant lines and should probably ditch the two piece crap.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:45 AM   #484
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I pretty much winged both of those. I measured the bolt hole center to center, and the flange width and knocked them out without writing anything down.

But,

I have this one for sale if you want it, or id be glad to get whatever measurements you want off of it.




I have a 1/8npt to 8mm 90 degree barb and a 3/8NPT to 5/8 straight barb to go with it. holes not drilled yet so you can choose where the fitting point.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:21 AM   #485
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You guys and all you're big machines. Jealous.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:23 AM   #486
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You guys and all you're big machines. Jealous.
I bought my first house in 2010. If you recall, first time home buyers got a check for $8k. I bought a mill and a lathe.

Thanks Obama!
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:54 AM   #487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
Also whats the consensus on wrapping the DP.
It is good.
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I thought the wrapping held the heat in and caused corrosion
If you live in a place with salty roads it can retain corrosives. Otherwise it is no issue.
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I've wrapped stuff here with excellent results, because CA.
...personally tho I like heat shielding
I have it wrapped and shielded. It preserves components better than one or the other alone. Protect your transmission all you can. And your brakes. And your hoses.

And it keeps heat out of the car.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:56 AM   #488
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
I bought my first house in 2010. If you recall, first time home buyers got a check for $8k. I bought a mill and a lathe.

Thanks Obama!
Clearly you have your priorities straight
Kudos
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I have it wrapped and shielded. It preserves components better than one or the other alone. Protect your transmission all you can. And your brakes. And your hoses.
abso-lutely.
you should see the engine bay of my thubawu
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:28 AM   #489
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See what i mean about the back and forth

Is there any issue with just wrapping the main pipe and leaving the WG tube alone?
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:30 AM   #490
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there's no back and forth. me and shooter agree that both are best
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:32 AM   #491
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<p>Even on a mild steel downpipe?</p>
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:33 AM   #492
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I meant me.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:34 AM   #493
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<p>Even on a mild steel downpipe?</p>
This was my concern.

Is there something offered in a rattle can that I could coat the DP with before I wrap it that will actually hold up? Like that ceramic paint good to 1200F? Its expensive for a rattle can, but I think one can would do.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:42 AM   #494
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VHT will kinda sorta hold up for a bit.

I don't think it's nearly as big of an issue for you since you said you never drive in the rain, or even have the car outside
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:42 AM   #495
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:43 AM   #496
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<p>
Quote:
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VHT will kinda sorta hold up for a bit. I don't think it's nearly as big of an issue for you since you said you never drive in the rain
</p><p>That's putting it nicely about VHT.</p>
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:43 AM   #497
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VHT will kinda sorta hold up for a bit.

I don't think it's nearly as big of an issue for you since you said you never drive in the rain, or even have the car outside

I have some of this in the garage for some reason. 2000F my ***. I dont believe you VHT.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vht-sp106/overview/
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:55 AM   #498
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I like how KBS publishes empirical data instead of just marketing BS. I thought POR15 used to, not sure what happened. I want to see a continuous heat rating. Not "trust us, its good to 2000F!".

Click the "Tech Data" tab.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html

Its also interesting that the KBS is silicone based, not ceramic or whatever.
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:47 PM   #499
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Default sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04

Quote:
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<p>Even on a mild steel downpipe?</p>
Mine is mild steel. I used the cold galvanizing paint on my cast manifold and it doesn't fail and protects it from rust. That stuff would work great on the dp, thanks for the idea. If i ever need to rewrap it I will spray it with that, but mine is three years old and is just fine under the wrap (I accidentally cut the wrap in one spot recently ).
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:35 PM   #500
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Mine is mild steel. I used the cold galvanizing paint on my cast manifold and it doesn't fail and protects it from rust. That stuff would work great on the dp, thanks for the idea. If i ever need to rewrap it I will spray it with that, but mine is three years old and is just fine under the wrap (I accidentally cut the wrap in one spot recently ).
Which brand of cold galvi?
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