sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04
#481
Now that you mention it, i think youve told me that before.
The most challenging stuff ive worked with was 304, maybe it was 316... Im not experienced so it was difficult to say the least. Ive heard what a bitch the nickel super alloys can be even compared to 304. I was happy to find 750x as it is supposed to one of the easiest to machine among the inconels.
I did some reasearch and found this wonderful publication. Look at the "work hardening graph" on page one. youll see how 750 approximates 304SS.
http://www.specialmetals.com/assets/smw_docs/Mach.pdf
Another benefit is, the linear CTE of 750 is almost identical to 1018.
X-750 Data Sheet
And heres a decent article on thermal creep.
Creep and Creep Failures
The most challenging stuff ive worked with was 304, maybe it was 316... Im not experienced so it was difficult to say the least. Ive heard what a bitch the nickel super alloys can be even compared to 304. I was happy to find 750x as it is supposed to one of the easiest to machine among the inconels.
I did some reasearch and found this wonderful publication. Look at the "work hardening graph" on page one. youll see how 750 approximates 304SS.
http://www.specialmetals.com/assets/smw_docs/Mach.pdf
Another benefit is, the linear CTE of 750 is almost identical to 1018.
X-750 Data Sheet
And heres a decent article on thermal creep.
Creep and Creep Failures
Failure of a HSS roughing mill is pretty spectacular, it starts smoking a bit more, then a little more, then it's on fire melted on the table after a loud bang. Don't bother trying to save that part, hehe, the heat it made beforehand means you'll cook some cutters trying to get back where you were! 316 and 304 are pretty similar in that regard.
I really liked turning monel 400, it's got a beautiful metallic finish when you get it going right. K500 has to be annealed and once we figured that process out it wasn't all that bad. More than anything you just need to make proper sized chips with the right spindle speed which keeps heat on the tool and workpiece down, really the same process for any material when it comes down to it.
I doubt you'd have a problem turning some yourself if you had to
#484
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I pretty much winged both of those. I measured the bolt hole center to center, and the flange width and knocked them out without writing anything down.
But,
I have this one for sale if you want it, or id be glad to get whatever measurements you want off of it.
I have a 1/8npt to 8mm 90 degree barb and a 3/8NPT to 5/8 straight barb to go with it. holes not drilled yet so you can choose where the fitting point.
But,
I have this one for sale if you want it, or id be glad to get whatever measurements you want off of it.
I have a 1/8npt to 8mm 90 degree barb and a 3/8NPT to 5/8 straight barb to go with it. holes not drilled yet so you can choose where the fitting point.
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It is good.
If you live in a place with salty roads it can retain corrosives. Otherwise it is no issue.
I have it wrapped and shielded. It preserves components better than one or the other alone. Protect your transmission all you can. And your brakes. And your hoses.
And it keeps heat out of the car.
If you live in a place with salty roads it can retain corrosives. Otherwise it is no issue.
And it keeps heat out of the car.
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This was my concern.
Is there something offered in a rattle can that I could coat the DP with before I wrap it that will actually hold up? Like that ceramic paint good to 1200F? Its expensive for a rattle can, but I think one can would do.
Is there something offered in a rattle can that I could coat the DP with before I wrap it that will actually hold up? Like that ceramic paint good to 1200F? Its expensive for a rattle can, but I think one can would do.
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Maybe:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-65103
I love por15s products
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44218
I would expect this to be the best stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44216
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-65103
I love por15s products
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44218
I would expect this to be the best stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44216
#497
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I have some of this in the garage for some reason. 2000F my ***. I dont believe you VHT.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vht-sp106/overview/
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I like how KBS publishes empirical data instead of just marketing BS. I thought POR15 used to, not sure what happened. I want to see a continuous heat rating. Not "trust us, its good to 2000F!".
Click the "Tech Data" tab.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html
Its also interesting that the KBS is silicone based, not ceramic or whatever.
Click the "Tech Data" tab.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html
Its also interesting that the KBS is silicone based, not ceramic or whatever.
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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04
Mine is mild steel. I used the cold galvanizing paint on my cast manifold and it doesn't fail and protects it from rust. That stuff would work great on the dp, thanks for the idea. If i ever need to rewrap it I will spray it with that, but mine is three years old and is just fine under the wrap (I accidentally cut the wrap in one spot recently ).
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Mine is mild steel. I used the cold galvanizing paint on my cast manifold and it doesn't fail and protects it from rust. That stuff would work great on the dp, thanks for the idea. If i ever need to rewrap it I will spray it with that, but mine is three years old and is just fine under the wrap (I accidentally cut the wrap in one spot recently ).