304 is a bugger, it's not as free machining as 303 so it likes to gum up cutters so chip evacuation is pretty important. You can't piddle around milling it either, as it and the chips will harden up and start destroying cutters. Weldments are usually 304, those big *** chicken winging machines I built were all 304. Lots of full depth slot and hole milling, sucked bad..

Failure of a HSS roughing mill is pretty spectacular, it starts smoking a bit more, then a little more, then it's on fire melted on the table after a loud bang. Don't bother trying to save that part, hehe, the heat it made beforehand means you'll cook some cutters trying to get back where you were! 316 and 304 are pretty similar in that regard.

I really liked turning monel 400, it's got a beautiful metallic finish when you get it going right. K500 has to be annealed and once we figured that process out it wasn't all that bad. More than anything you just need to make proper sized chips with the right spindle speed which keeps heat on the tool and workpiece down, really the same process for any material when it comes down to it.

I doubt you'd have a problem turning some yourself if you had to

 

416 is the **** if you need to machine stainless steel, 1146 is the **** if you want to machine non-stainless steel. **** a whole bunch of welding either of them.

 

Have you got a copy of the dimensions on that water inlet adapter to share, Sean? I need to replace my coolant lines and should probably ditch the two piece crap.

 

I pretty much winged both of those. I measured the bolt hole center to center, and the flange width and knocked them out without writing anything down.

But,

I have this one for sale if you want it, or id be glad to get whatever measurements you want off of it.




I have a 1/8npt to 8mm 90 degree barb and a 3/8NPT to 5/8 straight barb to go with it. holes not drilled yet so you can choose where the fitting point.

 

You guys and all you're big machines. Jealous.

 

I bought my first house in 2010. If you recall, first time home buyers got a check for $8k. I bought a mill and a lathe.

Thanks Obama!

 

It is good.
If you live in a place with salty roads it can retain corrosives. Otherwise it is no issue.
I have it wrapped and shielded. It preserves components better than one or the other alone. Protect your transmission all you can. And your brakes. And your hoses.

And it keeps heat out of the car.

 

Clearly you have your priorities straight
Kudos
abso-lutely.
you should see the engine bay of my thubawu

 

See what i mean about the back and forth

Is there any issue with just wrapping the main pipe and leaving the WG tube alone?

 

there's no back and forth. me and shooter agree that both are best

 

<p>Even on a mild steel downpipe?</p>

 

I meant me.

 

This was my concern.

Is there something offered in a rattle can that I could coat the DP with before I wrap it that will actually hold up? Like that ceramic paint good to 1200F? Its expensive for a rattle can, but I think one can would do.

 

VHT will kinda sorta hold up for a bit.

I don't think it's nearly as big of an issue for you since you said you never drive in the rain, or even have the car outside

 

Maybe:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-65103

I love por15s products
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44218

I would expect this to be the best stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-44216

 

<p></p><p>That's putting it nicely about VHT.</p>

 

I have some of this in the garage for some reason. 2000F my ***. I dont believe you VHT.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vht-sp106/overview/

 

I like how KBS publishes empirical data instead of just marketing BS. I thought POR15 used to, not sure what happened. I want to see a continuous heat rating. Not "trust us, its good to 2000F!".

Click the "Tech Data" tab.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html

Its also interesting that the KBS is silicone based, not ceramic or whatever.

 

Mine is mild steel. I used the cold galvanizing paint on my cast manifold and it doesn't fail and protects it from rust. That stuff would work great on the dp, thanks for the idea. If i ever need to rewrap it I will spray it with that, but mine is three years old and is just fine under the wrap (I accidentally cut the wrap in one spot recently ).

 

Which brand of cold galvi?