Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one - Page 89 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-22-2015, 01:29 PM   #1761
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so the discoloration doesn't look weird to you? it makes sense? have you seen many other heads that look exactly like that?
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:30 PM   #1762
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so the discoloration doesn't look weird to you? it makes sense? have you seen many other heads that look exactly like that?
I have seen one of my own head look like that, but it was just because I ran out of brake parts cleaner when I was cleaning it. I don't know why the OPs looks like that.
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:19 PM   #1763
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so the discoloration doesn't look weird to you? it makes sense? have you seen many other heads that look exactly like that?
The discoloration is weird, but out of everything going wrong with my motor, it is the least of my worries. I might try to dig up some older pictures and see if it was there before I put it on this motor. Although that discoloring is right in the area where the cam sensor plugs in. So might have been from something way back in 2011 when it was in my friends 99.
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Old 10-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #1764
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So I pulled out the pistons and rods last night. Needed to get the bad motor off the stand and the vvt motor I just bought on the stand. Tonight I drive up to Charlotte to pick up a built motor. Later this week I will be getting heads swapped and seeing when I will have time to get the new built motor swapped in.

Here are the bottom of 3 of the pistons. The marks came from the previous rebuild with the trust washer bouncing up and hitting them. I ran them in this build and I don't think they caused any problems. What does the masses think? The rods look damn near perfect, do I will be re-using those for sure on a future build.



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Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-hhd3a6r.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-jsft84s.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-cgbzizw.jpg  
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Old 10-27-2015, 01:59 PM   #1765
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FWIW, I think some of those nicks from the thrust washer are great places for crack propagation. They'd probably survive on a mild street build but if you're going for ALLOFIT you'd be asking for trouble.

Just my humble opinion...

Last edited by rwyatt365; 10-27-2015 at 03:37 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:06 PM   #1766
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Just get new pistons if rebuilding this. Too many transfer parts from two builds, I'd stay start fresh if finances permit.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:33 PM   #1767
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FWIW, I think some of those nicks from the thrust washer are great places for crack proposition. They'd probably survive on a mild street build but if you're going for ALLOFIT you'd be asking for trouble.

Just my humble opinion...
Could not agree more. Pistons go on a shelf, I'd never put those back in an engine. Rods I'd reuse, they're probably fine, just check them out.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:56 PM   #1768
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Those pistons are way done.
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:06 PM   #1769
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It looks like I am going to be doing a rods only 94 piston build sometime during the winter. Pistons will become some part of lamps or something.
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Old 10-27-2015, 04:23 PM   #1770
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See my signature.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:33 AM   #1771
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New built motor is in my garage. Hopefully this weekend I get time to swap heads, and then get oil pan drilled and tapped.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:25 PM   #1772
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This damned ice cream is so rich and delicious!
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:16 PM   #1773
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Doesn't everyone bypass the clutch interlock switch as a matter of course?

I've never owned a single car in which that switch lasted longer than a day or so after I purchased it. Had a couple that never came with one in the first place.

How do i do this in a NB **** please help me i can't find **** and have looked for years
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:19 PM   #1774
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all is lost

Lars why why why whyyyyyyy
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:26 PM   #1775
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How do i do this in a NB **** please help me i can't find **** and have looked for years
Seriously?

You do it the same way as on an NA. Get down on the floor and unplug the large white connector between the lower clutch switch (the one bolted to the firewall) and the wiring harness. Assemble a short jumper cable (about 2" long) with a QD connector crimped onto each end, and shove that into the two terminals of the connector on the harness side which formerly plugged into the clutch switch. Tie up the loose wires out of the way. Profit.

I have done this mod to every single M/T car I have ever owned*, with the exception of the two Beetles which didn't have clutch switches in the first place.

* = Yes, to my everlasting shame I did own one car with an automatic transmission. It was a 1992 Pontiac Grand Am; the pinnacle of affordable luxury. On multiple occasions, I drove that car between Cincinnati, OH and Ft. Myers, FL non-stop with the exception of gas-n-**** breaks, a journey of roughly 16 hours, and didn't feel at all tired or fatigued at the end. It was a shitty car, and it was a great car. Finally got rid of it after cracking the third cylinder head.
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:48 AM   #1776
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:41 AM   #1777
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For what it's worth, I have never had to shopvac-prime a new motor with a pump.
You can pump this motor thucydides


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Fae, here is your Easy Button

With instructions even:
https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...h_override.pdf
wow ok they have gotten m;ore good i like it

i always tried to wrap the metal around the short way and was lik eawhat it do why it do like to it to do like it
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:45 PM   #1778
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This evening I pulled off the vvt head from the vvt motor, and the NA head off the new built motor I bought. I then pulled the oil pan off the built motor so I can drill and tap it for oil return line and oil temp sensor.

I got the oil pan off and noticed this hole going through the oil pump.



I don't remember any of my other miata engines having a hole there in their oil pump. So I went and checked the 3 other engines I have sitting on stands.

99 motor. Hole is present.


94 motor, hole is plugged.


04 motor, hole is plugged.


The oil pump was a new oem oil pump from Rosenthal. Here is a link to the exact one on the car. It says it is for a 99/00. So my question becomes what is different on this pump then 94-97 and 01-05? Do I need to pull apart the 99 motor I have and swap windage trays? Should I plug the hole? Looking on Rosenthal's site I cannot find a 94-97 oil pump. I can find the 1.6, 99/00, 01-05 oil pumps. What I am doing wrong?

Time to go have several stiff drinks.
Attached Thumbnails
Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-2uw54qf.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-z1d2ndg.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-11nidft.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-whpdcud.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-7s9ples.jpg  

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Old 10-30-2015, 10:52 PM   #1779
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The hole is for the dip stick on fwd applications.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:42 PM   #1780
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PLUG THE HOLE!

Rosenthal is here to help: PLUG, BLIND (9930-71-000) - $2.49 - 993071000



My Boundary pump had that hole, and it included the plug in the package with the pump.

Windage tray needs to match oil pan needs to match oil pickup tube. I *believe* they are interchangeable on 1.8s from 94-00, but don't quote me on that.

1.8 oil pump is 1.8 oil pump. They should interchange, just make sure you are using a 01-05 pump with the VVT head. The 94-00 pumps are not supposed to be up to the task of supplying a VVT head with enough oil to get the job done and Mazda made the gears wider in the BP6D/VVT/01-05 pumps to meet this demand.

VVT pump can be used in earlier engines as a sort of upgrade and Mazda has (IIRC) superseded all previous 1.8 pump PNs with the BP6D/VVT/01-05 pump. Just don't use an earlier NA8 or BP4W pump with a VVT head.

Don't trust me on any of this data because once again I've been drinking. Get independent confirmation before moving forward. Hopefully this all makes some sense .
Attached Thumbnails
Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-243fa1e308a3cdabf020faa25f3e6e47__87282_zoom.jpg   Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one-243fa1e308a3cdabf020faa25f3e6e47__50568_std.jpg  

Last edited by EO2K; 10-30-2015 at 11:58 PM.
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