In Soviet Russia car build YOU!
#1341
949 Racing 7.25 Twin Disc Racing Clutch
Or
SpeedSport Clutches Lite Weigh Carbon-Carbon Clutches Call and order a twin plate, will take more time might be more expensive wont be as light will be easier to daily drive.
#1346
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Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,493
Total Cats: 268
I really want a 949 clutch but I cannot afford one. Even assuming I sell my current flywheel and crap - difference is still going to be $800 or more.
I do need to replace the rear main, because its obviously leaking (THANKS MAZDA)
I expected the clutch to wear out, yes, but not to start slipping :(
I do need to replace the rear main, because its obviously leaking (THANKS MAZDA)
I expected the clutch to wear out, yes, but not to start slipping :(
#1348
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Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,493
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Parts that I purchased to change my existing reroute to silicone hoses:
- SILICONE RADIATOR HOSE For HONDA CIVIC TypeR EK EG B16A B18C B20B 92-00 Black (eBay)
- Aluminium Hose Joiner Short Pipe Silicone 32mm 1.25" (eBay)
- BOLT HOSE CLAMP T BOLT ZINC PLATED 40-43mm, 1-9/16" - 1-11/16" NEW
(eBay)
Parts that I already had:
- Lightweight Alloy Aluminium Tube Pipe 500mm Long Straight Polished Intercooler A (eBay)
* this pipe is too long and ships from UK. It worked in my case but barely. An ideal size would be a little bit shorter (like 450mm or even less). Its a nice piece but if you can get a 32mm pipe cut and bead-rolled locally - do that instead.
The hose kit itself is obviously the most important piece. I just picked a random hose kit that LOOKED like it would work and was cheap yet quality-looking. Also black. Other hose kits will definitely work. Also, in my setup the radiator-reroute connection is a straight hose, due to my Trackspeed radiator. In normal reroutes you would need an additional S shaped hose to route to the radiator.
The most important thing is that everything is 1.25" or 32mm
Pictures:
This is what my old reroute looks like next to the hose kit out of the box
I had to take off the rear water neck because it's just so tight in there it's impossible to do anything (TWSH). New gaskets are FelPro fancypants gaskets.
The hose kit is quality, appearts to be 4 layer
This is how I cut and joined the hoses for the rear piece. This is the most important part. You want the hoses to form a 90* but straight from the reroute outlet it needs to bend so to not hit the firewall. align, measure, cut, align, measure, cut. Cut using a box knife.
The other piece of the hose is just a short straight, thanks to Trackspeed radiator. Most people would need an S hose there.
This is how it looks installed. The t-bolt clamps I used are great, but more difficult to install. You can use normal worm drive clamps but MAKE SURE THEY ARE MADE FOR SOFT TUBING (most clamps arent).
The clamp are very difficult to install and you can see how tight everything is. The Kia waterneck outlet also feels a tiny bit larger than 1.25" so that hose and clamp are VERY tight. This was the most difficult part.
Heres how it snakes between firewall, clutch line, fuel line and intake manifold. As you can see it doesn't touch anything. This is how I like my hoses. No touching.
And finally, an overall view. I added one support loop where the pipe is attached to the intake manifold. It doesn't leak a drop and looks good!
- SILICONE RADIATOR HOSE For HONDA CIVIC TypeR EK EG B16A B18C B20B 92-00 Black (eBay)
- Aluminium Hose Joiner Short Pipe Silicone 32mm 1.25" (eBay)
- BOLT HOSE CLAMP T BOLT ZINC PLATED 40-43mm, 1-9/16" - 1-11/16" NEW
(eBay)
Parts that I already had:
- Lightweight Alloy Aluminium Tube Pipe 500mm Long Straight Polished Intercooler A (eBay)
* this pipe is too long and ships from UK. It worked in my case but barely. An ideal size would be a little bit shorter (like 450mm or even less). Its a nice piece but if you can get a 32mm pipe cut and bead-rolled locally - do that instead.
The hose kit itself is obviously the most important piece. I just picked a random hose kit that LOOKED like it would work and was cheap yet quality-looking. Also black. Other hose kits will definitely work. Also, in my setup the radiator-reroute connection is a straight hose, due to my Trackspeed radiator. In normal reroutes you would need an additional S shaped hose to route to the radiator.
The most important thing is that everything is 1.25" or 32mm
Pictures:
This is what my old reroute looks like next to the hose kit out of the box
I had to take off the rear water neck because it's just so tight in there it's impossible to do anything (TWSH). New gaskets are FelPro fancypants gaskets.
The hose kit is quality, appearts to be 4 layer
This is how I cut and joined the hoses for the rear piece. This is the most important part. You want the hoses to form a 90* but straight from the reroute outlet it needs to bend so to not hit the firewall. align, measure, cut, align, measure, cut. Cut using a box knife.
The other piece of the hose is just a short straight, thanks to Trackspeed radiator. Most people would need an S hose there.
This is how it looks installed. The t-bolt clamps I used are great, but more difficult to install. You can use normal worm drive clamps but MAKE SURE THEY ARE MADE FOR SOFT TUBING (most clamps arent).
The clamp are very difficult to install and you can see how tight everything is. The Kia waterneck outlet also feels a tiny bit larger than 1.25" so that hose and clamp are VERY tight. This was the most difficult part.
Heres how it snakes between firewall, clutch line, fuel line and intake manifold. As you can see it doesn't touch anything. This is how I like my hoses. No touching.
And finally, an overall view. I added one support loop where the pipe is attached to the intake manifold. It doesn't leak a drop and looks good!
#1353
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,493
Total Cats: 268
Oh yeah I remember now
NA heads have a separate place for the dashboard coolant sensor
e.g.
99+ heads (both BP4W and VVT) have a single sender for both gauge and ECU, so there is no separate hole for the dash sender. However, there are threaded plugs which can be used to fit the sensor - they are all same thread.
NA heads have a separate place for the dashboard coolant sensor
e.g.
99+ heads (both BP4W and VVT) have a single sender for both gauge and ECU, so there is no separate hole for the dash sender. However, there are threaded plugs which can be used to fit the sensor - they are all same thread.
#1357
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,493
Total Cats: 268
Dude I dug out the Pms from miata.net
$55 shipped tomorrow morning. Do you live in the U.S.?
my paypal address is ----
Eli
305-XXX-YYY
Call me if you have any questions.
Money sent. And yes, I'm in US (MD)
Here's the address if it didn't show up in paypal thing:
<sexy address>
beautiful! thanks I'll mail the package tomorrow morning with shipping confirmation. Thanks again soviet!
haha, cool. i'll probably do something simpler. really, it's for the future. first, i gotta swap in a working engine
your package was sent today via USPS. Shipping tracking number:--------------------
lol.
Originally Posted by Hyper
Originally Posted by soviet
Originally Posted by Hyper
Originally Posted by soviet
I'll take it if you haven't sold it yet.
Although I'm a cheapskate
So I gotta ask if you can do $50.
Although I'm a cheapskate
So I gotta ask if you can do $50.
my paypal address is ----
Eli
305-XXX-YYY
Call me if you have any questions.
Here's the address if it didn't show up in paypal thing:
<sexy address>
Originally Posted by Hyper
Originally Posted by soviet
Originally Posted by Hyper
iI got your address. f you need to look at a reroute there is one in my profile. Just a little different. lol
Originally Posted by Hyper
don't worry about it bro, just send me pictures when you are done. I want to know if you chose coldside or hotside like i did.