In Soviet Russia car build YOU!
04-07-2014, 01:26 AM
#1801
Yeah - I was going to say washing it for sure. I bought a used bike which a PO had used "gas tank sealer" in.... which had all rotted away. I carried three replaceable filters with me (after turning chain over and over with 20 feet of chain in it for an hour), and I swapped them constantly - at least with every tank. It got better over time, but.... ick!
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04-07-2014, 01:45 PM
#1802
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Yeah I haz a sad about fuel pump. And I don't look forward to pulling the gas tank.
In good news, the 2003 carpet I got ages ago fits perrrrfectly.
And I'm finally going to clean up the super-messy wiring harness a little bit.
In good news, the 2003 carpet I got ages ago fits perrrrfectly.
And I'm finally going to clean up the super-messy wiring harness a little bit.
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04-21-2014, 11:52 AM
#1803
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Yesterday I swapped the gas tank on side of the street. Took all of 5 hours, solo, with hand tools. Really easy.
Today just gotta go get some E85 and should be ready to go driving again
Today just gotta go get some E85 and should be ready to go driving again
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04-21-2014, 12:18 PM
#1805
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It is really easy if you have v-bands and all the bolts have been loosend in the past 1-2 years 
Don't need a fancy jack!
A vaccum nipple over the looong brake hard line works like a charm. Just slide the compression nut out of the way and tada! No leaking brake fluid.
Don't need a fancy jack!A vaccum nipple over the looong brake hard line works like a charm. Just slide the compression nut out of the way and tada! No leaking brake fluid.
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04-22-2014, 11:55 AM
#1807
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v This is what it looks like. Just move the nut part out of the way v
In other news, E85 pump closest to my home was out of order :(
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04-22-2014, 01:41 PM
#1809
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lol yeah, I have to install mine. Just need the fittings, really.
Just did a deal on ABS parts, from a Mazdaspeed, including both subframes. So, sometime within a year my car will have ABS and then, hopefully, Racelogic traction control
Since labor is so damn cheap here in Norfolk, I will try to get all new parts sandblasted and powdercoated before I leave the area.
Just did a deal on ABS parts, from a Mazdaspeed, including both subframes. So, sometime within a year my car will have ABS and then, hopefully, Racelogic traction control
Since labor is so damn cheap here in Norfolk, I will try to get all new parts sandblasted and powdercoated before I leave the area.
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04-22-2014, 02:05 PM
#1810
That's pretty much where I am. Except for the whole fuel system.
I made this:
so replace the OEM "damper" with a fuel rail return, using the standard mazda quick disconnects.
We'll see if it works, but the whole system is suffering from a lack of definition.
(Huh, don't know how to make that pic smaller)
I made this:
so replace the OEM "damper" with a fuel rail return, using the standard mazda quick disconnects.We'll see if it works, but the whole system is suffering from a lack of definition.
(Huh, don't know how to make that pic smaller)
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04-22-2014, 02:48 PM
#1813
AN? What sensor are you using? I have a taurus sensor with some weird nut things on it.... Those go to steel lines, and those have plastic fuel hose over it. So I guess I'll do the same, hose + clamps.
Er, I guess. I figured better safe than sorry on the sealing. Then I'll reuse some fourty-connect/disconnect cycle OEM junkyard plug on it, which was sitting in brake fluid for a month. Cause I have my priorities straight.
Er, I guess. I figured better safe than sorry on the sealing. Then I'll reuse some fourty-connect/disconnect cycle OEM junkyard plug on it, which was sitting in brake fluid for a month. Cause I have my priorities straight.
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04-22-2014, 04:16 PM
#1816
Is there an advantage to one or the other?
The "$300 VDO made unit" you mention with that part number is available from FM for around $100. It's the one Hydra "likes."
Haltech also uses 13577379, not 13577394 to the best of my knowledge. (Probably no difference worth talking about.) $70 here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=13577379
13577394 is the same price at the same site. Can be found elsewhere for $70 shipped.
The "$300 VDO made unit" you mention with that part number is available from FM for around $100. It's the one Hydra "likes."
Haltech also uses 13577379, not 13577394 to the best of my knowledge. (Probably no difference worth talking about.) $70 here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=13577379
13577394 is the same price at the same site. Can be found elsewhere for $70 shipped.
Last edited by concealer404; 04-22-2014 at 04:29 PM.
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04-23-2014, 02:20 AM
#1819
I'm talking about the loooooong hardline that goes under the car to a distribution block on the rear subframe. After you disconnect it from the distribution block, simply slide the "nut" and put a cap on the flare.
v This is what it looks like. Just move the nut part out of the way v
In other news, E85 pump closest to my home was out of order :(
v This is what it looks like. Just move the nut part out of the way v
In other news, E85 pump closest to my home was out of order :(
For some reason, when I looked up vacuum nipple I got results that confused my noggin.
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04-24-2014, 09:26 AM
#1820
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lol
yeah...
Some news - car starts, idles for anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds then AFR goes super lean and it dies. I have little idea as to what is causing this, but while looking at the logs I noticed that my voltage is hitting 16V (what the ****). What would cause the alternator to overvolt like this? Its a Mazda 626 alternator, internally regulated just like the NA units. Could it be just a shitty sense wire?
**** this car.
yeah...
Some news - car starts, idles for anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds then AFR goes super lean and it dies. I have little idea as to what is causing this, but while looking at the logs I noticed that my voltage is hitting 16V (what the ****). What would cause the alternator to overvolt like this? Its a Mazda 626 alternator, internally regulated just like the NA units. Could it be just a shitty sense wire?
**** this car.
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