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Old 08-31-2012, 03:43 PM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
sure.
could have a setting to automatically submit an RMA request if turbine spins over 300k or something
No, put a turbine speed sensor before your muffler.

If it reads any value, submit an RMA request.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:44 PM   #702
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rofl.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:54 PM   #703
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Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Holy ****, had no idea those had a speed sensor. That is rad.
They are optional accessory but every EFR is ready to use one. There is a *ton* of cool things they have compared to any other turbo.

My favorite part is probably the giant clamp that holds the compressor housing. just loosen a single 10mm and the housing spins freely. vs dealing with 6 bolts and a circlip....
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:10 PM   #704
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I already have plans to support the speed sensor in my Enhanced ECUs, hence the question. I would just buy an EFR turbo to get some measurements and then sell it at some minor loss, but they are unobtanium right now.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:37 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
sure.
could have a setting to automatically submit an RMA request if turbine spins over 300k or something
LOL'd IRL
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:21 AM   #706
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Worked on the car today & yesterday.

Repacked front ebay hubs. The hub casing had heat discoloring - does this mean they were heat treated? Had that "rainbow" look on them.

Pressed in front ARP studs. For anyone who cares - front ebay hubs use 90-93 ARP bolts - 0.507" diameter, not the later ones (which are bigger).

Front hub spindles literally looked BRAND NEW. The bearing cap does an amazing job of keeping moisture out. Seriously, the hub nuts looked absolutely new!

Original hub nut in this picture


Radiator also fits effortlessly - actually better than ebay one. 14" spal fan has plenty of room - I just eyeballed it and it pretty obvious.


Today put front 11.75" Trackspeed breaks and rear sports brackets



Some more parts are coming in this week. I'll do some more work on Thursday (maybe...).
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:32 PM   #707
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manifold just got mailed from Cali so I should have it next week.



and it's looking pretty epic.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:06 PM   #708
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Looks good. Mr. Witty did you do any work to the collectorrectum or was that aok?
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:13 PM   #709
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Nice gusset. Welcome back to the man club.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:17 PM   #710
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Crap like this makes me want to get nasty with my ETD longtube and gusset the hell out of every damn weld on it. Might do it too

Looking good you Russian *****. I envy your setup.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Looks good. Mr. Witty did you do any work to the collectorrectum or was that aok?
I didn't do any work to the collectorrectum, it looked nice and tight just like when it was created . I just fixed the cracks and added the gussets seen in the pics.

For anyone wondering about the repair process that I performed, here is what I did. I had two potential options for repair. The first is the normal crack repair method that I have learned from word of mouth/forums/mentors. The process is to drill out the crack (sligghtly smaller than 1/8") on each end at the point where the crack stops. This is done to terminate the crack all the way through the metal, so it doesn't reappear if you just weld over it. Then I welded up the holes, and over the entire crack, at a pretty high amperage with lots of filler>going for more penetration this time. I also back-purged the entire manifold.

The other option i was thinking about was cutting the two cracked welds completely through, to let the obvious stress at those locations settle. I asked arguably the best welder I have seen (unobtanium welding-major **** on his facebook page and website) his opinion on the two methods, and he basically said that although cutting the entire weld would take the stress out, re-welding the entire weld instead of just the crack would add that much more stress back into the piece.

All in all, drilling out the cracks and making anice hot pass over the crack should be a sufficient repair. After the welding was done, I had to resurface the head flange, which had warped some due to the welding.

I hope this bad boy lasts many more track days and makes the sickest miata dyno plot ever with the new 6758!!!!
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:31 PM   #712
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In for 400whp pulls of GLORY
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:09 AM   #713
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In for 400whp pulls of GLORY
oh, it's coming

I put on my BLUE RACECAR TIMING BELT and crank pulley #4571, courtesy of _spyder. I'll get the BALLER 949 damper eventually but for now the stock one will suffice (I'm broke now)

BTW the logic behind $50 blue timing belt is that it should stretch less at high rpm.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:48 AM   #714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
BTW the logic behind $50 blue timing belt is that it should stretch less at high rpm.
Timing belt stretch bad. Good call.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:31 AM   #715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
oh, it's coming

I put on my BLUE RACECAR TIMING BELT and crank pulley #4571, courtesy of _spyder. I'll get the BALLER 949 damper eventually but for now the stock one will suffice (I'm broke now)

BTW the logic behind $50 blue timing belt is that it should stretch less at high rpm.

my mom drove my miata to the store the other day, wanna race her?
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #716
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my mom drove my miata to the store the other day, wanna race her?
I bet she's a better driver, singer, lover than you are
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:00 PM   #717
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I'm by far the better singer.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:40 PM   #718
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I'm by far the better singer.
But your mom does bake some amazing cookies.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:54 AM   #719
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But your mom does bake some amazing cookies.
Is this a metaphor?
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:33 AM   #720
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after a long struggle I can now last 30 minutes in bed put my 14" tool fan on the radiator. Initially I just made flat brackets out of 22gauge steel. Fan hit sway bar. Then I made new brackets that are an 'S' bend kind of. This way the fan is RIGHT UP against the radiator (blades are about 5-10mm away). The images don't really show it but the clearance between sway and fan is about 5-10mm as well. It's tight.





Also took off the intake manifold - god damn my car is filthy. 7000 miles does that I guess. Oh and block is no longer white but more like diluted **** yellow. Great!
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