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Old 07-09-2013, 11:19 AM   #1221
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Can you make this work with an MS2 or do you need the usb port from the MS3?

EDIT: Nvm, I answered my own question by reading the app description.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:55 AM   #1222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
What is funny is I just got MSDash up and running on my Samsung Galaxy Nexus in the past few days. The fact that I can go over USB and not use bluetooth is amazing. Why are you using the USB hub?

I also did not have to install any .ini files on my phone. It automatically pulled in the correct one and started working on the first time I plugged it in.
Because I'm planning on doing a fixed installation. So I will potentially connect more devices to the Nexus.

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Wow, so the wired is a huge advantage over the bluetooth? I have been considering not getting a wideband or boost gauge and just using shadowdash or MSDash as my gauges on my Nexus 4, so I guess I will have to look into running it wired like that.
You can run both on bluetooth, while only msDash supports wired mode.
msDash is $0.00, ShadowDash is $9.99.
msDash is in alpha, ShadowDash is pretty mature
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:36 PM   #1223
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I can't pretend to be any expert, but the MSdroid app looked to be in that sweet spot where the authors are excited and there are some features.

Powering the hub would seem ok, though I don't think they are set up to power the host device. Huh, interesting side effect of OTG. Certainly nothing wrong with setting it up your way.

28 gauge wire? Awesome. I was afraid it'd be something small. :-) I've certainly dealt with worse. The problem I keep finding is small wires in some USB cables don't charge very well.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:19 PM   #1224
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To power the device through the hub you would still use a Y cable and plug the "power" end of it into the hub's powered outlets.

I like my current setup because its simple. Just have to secure all the cables and change how the cigarette outlet is powered.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:19 PM   #1225
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To power the device through the hub you would still use a Y cable and plug the "power" end of it into the hub's powered outlets.

I like my current setup because its simple. Just have to secure all the cables and change how the cigarette outlet is powered.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:50 PM   #1226
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Not saying I'd recommend that. It was kinda a pain in the butt. :-) This one is switched, I also put 3 ports behind the passenger seat which I ran (fused but) direct to the battery. Nice to have the choice from always on versus not.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:23 PM   #1227
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Talked to DeatschWerks. Plan for the pump is as follows:
- take it out of the tank to see if the sock is gunked up
- possibly re-wire with higher gauge wires
- lower base fuel pressure and see if it holds better
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #1228
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I know on other cars re-wiring the pump past 400 is mandatory. They even sell re-wire kits and what not.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #1229
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yeah it sounds like a good idea and easy to do.
re-wire kits are for chumps, though.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:10 AM   #1230
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Don't feel like reading, what pump is it?
I have a A1000 on my Mustang that lost major power with stock wiring. I went with 10G and a 90amp relay right to battery. Should be easy on Miata that had battery 3' from tank.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:59 PM   #1231
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In case there's more opinions on this whole alternator thing (and to keep this thread uncluttered) Alternator Options And Opinions
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:59 PM   #1232
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In case there's more opinions on this whole alternator thing (and to keep this thread uncluttered) Alternator Options And Opinions
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:03 PM   #1233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IcantDo55 View Post
Don't feel like reading, what pump is it?
I have a A1000 on my Mustang that lost major power with stock wiring. I went with 10G and a 90amp relay right to battery. Should be easy on Miata that had battery 3' from tank.
Its a DW300 - Fuel Pumps : DW300 In-Tank Fuel Pump | DeatschWerks
I'm going to rewire it, yeah. 12ga wires.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #1234
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12 gauge? Wow. What's stock wiring?
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:58 PM   #1235
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like 20g.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:17 PM   #1236
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Yeah like 18ga or 20ga
Stock pump probably uses like 5amp of current vs 10-15amp or so that DW300 drains.

Voltage drop over 10ft of 18ga wire @ 15amp/13VDC is 2 volts.
Voltage drop over 10ft of 12ga wire @ 15amp/13VDC is 0.5 volts
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #1237
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p.s. the fun fact is that I probably had weak-*** fuel pressure this whole time. But while I was running gas, the combination of big pump + big injectors could overcome weak fuel pump voltage and pressure.

With E85 the injectors are suddenly not that big and I actually have a way to monitor fuel pressure - so the problem becomes much more obvious.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:30 PM   #1238
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Note to self, rewire fuel pump this winter.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:12 PM   #1239
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yeah - same deal. A friend told me to use this corvette fuel filter/regulator combo - big flow, low dollar, reasonable quality.... but not manifold referenced. With 1000cc injectors and a walbro 400lph, I don't expect a lot of problems at 250 hp.... But e85 or higher boost is going to be problematic.

Also, I find anytime the battery is weak, the car has issues....18 amps is the top of the current draw curve.

OMG, check out this article - near the end there's a "flow per dollar" chart I love.

Radium Engineering - Tech Articles


I wish they had your pump on there, curious how it would do - noise included.

Also not bad - shows characteristics when you ask to much pressure from it New Walbro 400 lph Fuel Pump is now available at T1 Race Development
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #1240
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Walbro 400 eh
at 80-90psi it looks about 20-25% better than DW300. Neat.

Too bad I don't have $180 to play around with a new pump.


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