In Soviet Russia car build YOU! - Page 91 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-07-2014, 02:26 AM   #1801
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
AbeFM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,047
Total Cats: 9
Default

Yeah - I was going to say washing it for sure. I bought a used bike which a PO had used "gas tank sealer" in.... which had all rotted away. I carried three replaceable filters with me (after turning chain over and over with 20 feet of chain in it for an hour), and I swapped them constantly - at least with every tank. It got better over time, but.... ick!
AbeFM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:45 PM   #1802
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

Yeah I haz a sad about fuel pump. And I don't look forward to pulling the gas tank.

In good news, the 2003 carpet I got ages ago fits perrrrfectly.


And I'm finally going to clean up the super-messy wiring harness a little bit.
Attached Thumbnails
In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-20140406_155619.jpg  
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2014, 12:52 PM   #1803
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

Yesterday I swapped the gas tank on side of the street. Took all of 5 hours, solo, with hand tools. Really easy.



Today just gotta go get some E85 and should be ready to go driving again
Attached Thumbnails
In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-2014-04-20-16.34.18.jpg  
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2014, 01:12 PM   #1804
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,662
Total Cats: 227
Default

LOL, awesome. Just drop the entire rear subframe, eh? "easy", i like the way you roll.
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2014, 01:18 PM   #1805
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

It is really easy if you have v-bands and all the bolts have been loosend in the past 1-2 years Don't need a fancy jack!

A vaccum nipple over the looong brake hard line works like a charm. Just slide the compression nut out of the way and tada! No leaking brake fluid.
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 02:02 AM   #1806
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,967
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
A vaccum nipple over the looong brake hard line works like a charm. Just slide the compression nut out of the way and tada! No leaking brake fluid.
I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I'll be dropping my rear subframe soon and if I don't have to deal w/ brake fluid...let's just say BJ city.
kenzo42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 12:55 PM   #1807
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenzo42 View Post
I'm having a hard time visualizing this. I'll be dropping my rear subframe soon and if I don't have to deal w/ brake fluid...let's just say BJ city.
I'm talking about the loooooong hardline that goes under the car to a distribution block on the rear subframe. After you disconnect it from the distribution block, simply slide the "nut" and put a cap on the flare.

v This is what it looks like. Just move the nut part out of the way v






In other news, E85 pump closest to my home was out of order :(
Attached Thumbnails
In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-rearbrakeline3.jpg  
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 01:02 PM   #1808
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
AbeFM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,047
Total Cats: 9
Default

My flex-fuel sensor is going to be the best part of my car.

Way better than the owner.
AbeFM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 02:41 PM   #1809
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

lol yeah, I have to install mine. Just need the fittings, really.

Just did a deal on ABS parts, from a Mazdaspeed, including both subframes. So, sometime within a year my car will have ABS and then, hopefully, Racelogic traction control

Since labor is so damn cheap here in Norfolk, I will try to get all new parts sandblasted and powdercoated before I leave the area.
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 03:05 PM   #1810
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
AbeFM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,047
Total Cats: 9
Default

That's pretty much where I am. Except for the whole fuel system.
I made this: so replace the OEM "damper" with a fuel rail return, using the standard mazda quick disconnects.

We'll see if it works, but the whole system is suffering from a lack of definition.

(Huh, don't know how to make that pic smaller)
Attached Thumbnails
In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-20140419_203247.jpg  
AbeFM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 03:32 PM   #1811
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

Intersting...
I'm just too cheap to buy a couple of AN fittings
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 03:32 PM   #1812
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,325
Total Cats: 231
Default

That's not polished enough Abe, Jeffbucc would be disappointed.
thenuge26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 03:48 PM   #1813
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
AbeFM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,047
Total Cats: 9
Default

AN? What sensor are you using? I have a taurus sensor with some weird nut things on it.... Those go to steel lines, and those have plastic fuel hose over it. So I guess I'll do the same, hose + clamps.

Er, I guess. I figured better safe than sorry on the sealing. Then I'll reuse some fourty-connect/disconnect cycle OEM junkyard plug on it, which was sitting in brake fluid for a month. Cause I have my priorities straight.

AbeFM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 04:46 PM   #1814
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,237
Total Cats: 554
Default

Aren't flex fuel sensors cheap, new?
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 05:07 PM   #1815
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tucson, Az
Posts: 514
Total Cats: 29
Default

There seem to be two styles. The Continental made $75 GMPP sensor 13577394, also used by Haltech and Zeitronix, and a $300+ VDO made unit that came out of Taurii, S10's, Silverados, etc. etc. GM PN 12570260.
TheScaryOne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 05:16 PM   #1816
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,237
Total Cats: 554
Default

Is there an advantage to one or the other?

The "$300 VDO made unit" you mention with that part number is available from FM for around $100. It's the one Hydra "likes."


Haltech also uses 13577379, not 13577394 to the best of my knowledge. (Probably no difference worth talking about.) $70 here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=13577379

13577394 is the same price at the same site. Can be found elsewhere for $70 shipped.

Last edited by concealer404; 04-22-2014 at 05:29 PM.
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 05:23 PM   #1817
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
AbeFM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,047
Total Cats: 9
Default

Huh, that's pretty cheap. I guess I was linking the read out electronics in my perceived price. Almost worth it for a small, easy to connect to unit.
This one is siemen's unit.
AbeFM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2014, 10:22 PM   #1818
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,876
Total Cats: 487
Default

Sucks E85 is such garbage tolerance. Half the time its 30% difference. Hard to get a good afr without a sensor.
triple88a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2014, 03:20 AM   #1819
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,967
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
I'm talking about the loooooong hardline that goes under the car to a distribution block on the rear subframe. After you disconnect it from the distribution block, simply slide the "nut" and put a cap on the flare.

v This is what it looks like. Just move the nut part out of the way v






In other news, E85 pump closest to my home was out of order :(
Got it. Thanks.

For some reason, when I looked up vacuum nipple I got results that confused my noggin.

kenzo42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2014, 10:26 AM   #1820
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,509
Total Cats: 248
Default

lol
yeah...


Some news - car starts, idles for anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds then AFR goes super lean and it dies. I have little idea as to what is causing this, but while looking at the logs I noticed that my voltage is hitting 16V (what the ****). What would cause the alternator to overvolt like this? Its a Mazda 626 alternator, internally regulated just like the NA units. Could it be just a shitty sense wire?

**** this car.
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Turbo 1995 Miata Low mileage Clean Tekel Cars for sale/trade 29 02-05-2016 05:16 PM
The "just have fun build" nelson8708 Build Threads 9 09-26-2015 10:07 AM
Project DDoS: '99 "Budget" boost build ProjectDDoS Build Threads 1 09-09-2015 02:52 PM
New here, saying hi, here's what I'm workin with. SuperSneakySecretSquirrel Meet and Greet 5 09-06-2015 09:30 PM
Annoying little leaks AlwaysBroken Engine Performance 5 09-06-2015 01:53 AM


Tags
backwards bolshevik, communists, drives like grandma, measuring shafts, potato powerd, won't go wot

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:35 PM.