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Old 04-24-2014, 10:48 AM   #1821
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Internal regulator ate itself?
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:09 AM   #1822
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That would blow dicks. What would cause it fail? Its just a stupid circuit...
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:13 AM   #1823
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Well, there are 2 MX-6s at the local yard....
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:18 AM   #1824
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Isnt a brand new regulator cheap money? All the mnet old guys seem to think rebuilding our alternators is easy and cheap.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:31 AM   #1825
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$220?
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cat...CTS_VR790.html

Miata ones are like $140, lol

edit: alternator is $20.99 + $6.99 core at local yard. And I think they have extended warranty on them, too.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:43 AM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
$220?
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cat...CTS_VR790.html

Miata ones are like $140, lol

edit: alternator is $20.99 + $6.99 core at local yard. And I think they have extended warranty on them, too.
lol wut? That doesnt seem right, thats more than just buying a rebuilt alternator. Damn mnet threads that I only half paid attention to.
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:52 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
AN? What sensor are you using? I have a taurus sensor with some weird nut things on it.... Those go to steel lines, and those have plastic fuel hose over it. So I guess I'll do the same, hose + clamps.
1x New Flex Fuel Sensor Fits 2011 2012 GMC Chevy 13577394 Terrain Savana Express
2x Russell by Edelbrock 640853 -6 AN Male to 3/8" SAE Quick-Disconnect Female Push-On EFI Fitting

Less than $100 combined.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:23 PM   #1828
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Huh. That's kinda clever - the adapter thing. Anyway, I've been using hose clamps on the much of the fuel system forever... Don't see why not to continue. Those same fittings - to hose barb, are like $3 in plastic.

Every time I try to find an alternator, yeah, very pricey. If your time is worth it, junkyard is the way to go, esp. with the warranty.

You can do my mopar regulator trick, but you'll spend $20 for the box to control it.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:49 PM   #1829
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Those fittings are working for your "ALLOFIT" fuel pressures?
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:53 PM   #1830
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I know everyone else has already said it, but you're better off with an old alternator than a new one. Old family mechanic friend told me stories of finding new starter motors held together with wood screws, which is why he only used remanufactured ones.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:12 AM   #1831
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So, on Zietronix's site - both sensors have the EXACT same specs.

Is that right, does anyone know? I guess there's no reason to get the new one if the old one is literally identical.

Also, how do you get fuel temp out of it, if it's a 1 wire frequency return?


13577394:
Quote:
Flex fuel Sensor Technical Specification:
Measuring range: 0100% Alcohol (ethanol) in fuel mixtures
Sensor Accuracy: 5% of the mixture ratio
Output characteristic: Linear
Operating temperature: Environment -40C +125C, Fuel -40C +90C
Maximum fuel pressure: 10 bar, (145 psi)
Maximum pressure drop: 0.1 bar, (1.45 psi)
Maximum flow: 200 l/h
Supply voltage: 618 Volts DC
Sensor Temperature error: < 1.5%
Response time: < 250 ms after power on at any temperature
Design: Suitable for the installation in motor vehicles, independent of position. Housing is waterproof. Always check for fuel leaks!
Quote:
12570260 Flex fuel Sensor Technical Specification:
Measuring range: 0100% Alcohol (ethanol) in fuel mixtures
Sensor Accuracy: 5% of the mixture ratio
Output characteristic: Linear
Operating temperature: Environment -40C +125C, Fuel -40C +90C
Maximum fuel pressure: 10 bar, (145 psi)
Maximum pressure drop: 0.1 bar, (1.45 psi)
Maximum flow: 200 l/h
Supply voltage: 618 Volts DC
Sensor Temperature error: < 1.5%
Response time: < 250 ms after power on at any temperature
Design: Suitable for the installation in motor vehicles, independent of position. Housing is waterproof. Flex fuel sensor Dimensions are given below.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:14 AM   #1832
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Took off the alternator last night and the car runs fine (just ran it for a little bit with alternator disconnected). So I guess 16V ***** with a lot of things

Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Those fittings are working for your "ALLOFIT" fuel pressures?
Why wouldnt they? they are oem-type fittings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
I know everyone else has already said it, but you're better off with an old alternator than a new one. Old family mechanic friend told me stories of finding new starter motors held together with wood screws, which is why he only used remanufactured ones.
We'll see what I find today!
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:43 PM   #1833
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Abe, I read over on Supra forums that they're electrically compatible. Supposedly the smaller part is more accurate, as it actually measures ethanol content rather than estimates. It's also supposed to be more durable. And it's cheaper.

It's a variable amplitude and frequency square wave. It sends fuel temp and fuel percentage on the same wire.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:29 PM   #1834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
Why wouldnt they? they are oem-type fittings.
Word on the street was that these had sealing/retention issues (but it may be operator error) and the people were burning down cars, so Russell discontinued them and replaced them with these:



But hey, if its working on your car who am I to question it? I think even Fae was using one of the OEM retention clip style ones
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:33 PM   #1835
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Interesting...
I'm not actually running the flex sensor yet, so I may end up using the "new" style instead.
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:01 PM   #1836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheScaryOne View Post
Abe, I read over on Supra forums that they're electrically compatible. Supposedly the smaller part is more accurate, as it actually measures ethanol content rather than estimates. It's also supposed to be more durable. And it's cheaper.

It's a variable amplitude and frequency square wave. It sends fuel temp and fuel percentage on the same wire.
holy crap I didn't know that it also has fuel temperature.

megasquirt 3 supports it, apparently
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:59 AM   #1837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheScaryOne View Post
Supposedly the smaller part is more accurate, as it actually measures ethanol content rather than estimates. It's also supposed to be more durable. And it's cheaper.
Yeah - I assumed.... But, I wish I knew. I guess I don't care, it's not a lot of money to get it right, even if I throw mine away. Or more properly, return it to the guy who gave it to me - though I bet you could sell it on ebay to some sap for $180.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheScaryOne View Post
It's a variable amplitude and frequency square wave. It sends fuel temp and fuel percentage on the same wire.
That rocks. From what I just read in the settings, it's frequency verses duty cycle. Interesting, but it makes sense, easier to read, no fast ADC's there. Being simplistic, I was thinking it was a DC offset. :-P

Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Word on the street was that these had sealing/retention issues (but it may be operator error)
Hard to say. :-) You could hurt the o-ring inside, maybe rotate it too much? They don't really like side-loads, and if some clown put -12 steel braided line on it then bent it into a U, it could break the seal for sure. Since the OEM connectors are like a couple bucks, just buy them?

Anyway, interesting find, I was thinking I would have to build a whole other circuit to get temp, that's pretty amazing... I wonder if MS-3 scales pulsewidths for density properly.

Then again, I live in SD. "freezing" is like 64, and "too hot to go out" is maybe 78.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:53 PM   #1838
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So on Friday I picked up a $30 junkyard alternator with 12 month free replacement (win)



But it was raining on Friday and I had more important things to do during the weekend.

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Old 04-28-2014, 01:10 PM   #1839
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ages 11-16 bro, you sure you can handle it?
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:27 PM   #1840
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ages 11-16 bro, you sure you can handle it?
It was harder than building a 450whp miata
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