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Old 03-30-2016, 12:51 PM   #461
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I have mine in the trans tunnel under the car. One side of that wrap stuff is sticky but I did not trust it. So I also bought some 3m spray adhesive that I spray up there before I put it on. You want to get the trans tunnel as clean as possible so the stuff sticks well.
Would using the gold DEI heat shielding have the same impact in that location as what you mentioned doing/ using? Essentially they both reflect the heat correct?
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:52 PM   #462
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Would using the gold DEI heat shielding have the same impact in that location as what you mentioned doing/ using? Essentially they both reflect the heat correct?
I highly doubt it. That gold heat shielding is about as thick as tin foil, the stuff I linked to is 1/8" thick. But saying that I have never tried it so I really have no clue.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:01 PM   #463
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I highly doubt it. That gold heat shielding is about as thick as tin foil, the stuff I linked to is 1/8" thick. But saying that I have never tried it so I really have no clue.
Eh, idk, the DEI stuff is specifically designed to REFLECT heat within engine bays for sustained periods of time up too 850* and to ultimately protect anything from heat (within recommended temp range). I don't personally think that HVAC insulation is the right product for the job. Not saying it won't work, clearly you have used it with success, I however have not.

https://www.designengineering.com/ca...r/reflect-gold
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #464
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Okay so I got everything going I jump start my car and recalibrated the mtx-l but now the gauge shows full lean condition at idle

I'd really love to drive the thing but lights already going down and I'm wondering if the sensor got messed up for sitting 2 months or???
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #465
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The insulation is also reflective. And it is insulation, which insulates, because it is insulation. Air is highly insulatory, which is why there is closed cell foam on the sticky side.
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:19 PM   #466
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I got the gauge to work after calibrating another two times. I think the battery was so low, it wasn't storing or calibrating correctly so after it sat there running under it's own power for a bit, everything went fine finally. It was low to the point where the gauges where bugging out.


I have to say, the exhaust is super quite from the outside with a deep tone, but it's still a bit noisy on the inside. I am pretty much convinced it's a function of the exhaust urethane hangers.


This exhaust is actually quite amazing, Abe did a bang up job. He modified the downpipe by flipping the flex piece forward so it doesn't interfere with the FM butterfly brace. By keeping the orientation of the midpipe, he was able to redesign the exhaust slightly such that the muffler sits waaaaay up high and out of the way. You can't even see it from behind the car under the bumper. Also all the pipes have no chance of interference anywhere. Holy **** it's magic. Clearance for days. I love it. Driving around there was no rattles or banging or shifting of pipes. I'm so happy.

That being said, I may try switching to traditional rubber hangers to see if this helps with the noise. Also might look into the 4th Exhaust hanger mod if Shuiend makes it up this way :3

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Old 04-01-2016, 01:02 AM   #467
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I think Abe did a better looking job on your exhaust than what my local guy did, plus it was $$$sive. Disappointed in your Swaintech job too, but under this kind of heat I guess nothing holds up forever. I have rubber on my exhaust hangers but worry about it ripping under the weight of massive magnaflow.
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:09 AM   #468
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I think Abe did a better looking job on your exhaust than what my local guy did, plus it was $$$sive. Disappointed in your Swaintech job too, but under this kind of heat I guess nothing holds up forever. I have rubber on my exhaust hangers but worry about it ripping under the weight of massive magnaflow.
Get some metal clamps that you use on coolant hoses and put them around the rubber hangers and tighten them down. This will help prevent them from ripping.
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Old 04-01-2016, 02:08 PM   #469
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Can I undo/use these two bolts under the hinge to install a board across the trunk to mount an amp and crossovers? Is this a water barrier or will anything fall from behind?
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:36 AM   #470
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If you place a board or anything across there the hinge will hit it.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:26 AM   #471
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Got it to work.

Board doesn't extend to the hinge and an L cut allows the spring to clear. Amp and crossovers fit perfectly next to each other. Now I have an awesome template for mounting amps in miatas lol.

The shitty part of the night was realizing that the door cards are so shallow, I had to build out the base and mount the speaker over the door and use the covers it came with.

Then realizing how much doors rattle in general. I will be revisiting this once more when it's warmer out. I have to take the board down again to carpet it and tidy the wiring, but it feels nice to drown out my drone with music.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:30 PM   #472
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Door rattles are solved rather well with greasing/servicing the window mechanism, some CLD (constrained layer damping) tile and some butyl rope. I get my supplies from sound deadener showdown. Don there makes great stuff and it isn't too expensive when buying in smallerish quantities. 4 or 5 tiles form him should cover the door needs.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:16 PM   #473
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Thanks for the info!

I hear it mainly between the doorcard and upper plastic interface. You can press on it and it stops buzzing. I think I'll order some of the butyle rope and CLD to stick on the outer door, then maybe get a MLV with closed cell to sandwich in the door card. Maybe hot glue key spots of the doorcard interface to see if that keeps it from rattling. Either way, this is my first venture into any car audio and I can see already how people spend hours and hours.

I already want to take the board down to tuck the wires neater and carpet for fit and finish.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:21 PM   #474
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Neat wiring and carpet really make things look great.

Rattles between things can be stopped with foam tape or felt tape, I would avoid hot glue in a car, the sun can melt it on a hot day!

I have spent hours and hours on car audio, I am about to pull my daily appart and redo all the wiring for a system upgrade (once school is done for the year). I just finished the amp rack for the Miata the other week.

Let me knownif you need any help with any of it, though doing the math and design for an audio system is a lot of fun. Wait until you discover just what a DSP can do (and how many amp channels you end up wanting. My daily is going to have 11 amp channels when it is all said and done...)
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:05 PM   #475
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So, I'm enjoying a smoothly running smurfette after brain just fixed up the ms3. I need to adjust the pid for idle since I replaced the idle control valve.

Cleaned her up and she got a small new look.

Time to listen to 15 jazz bands converging on DC for a huge lindyhop exchange.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:32 PM   #476
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Picked up my last parts from Rosenthal before the parts department closes for good. It was convenient to have been able to walk over for quick last minute parts. :(

Sad to hear Rosenthal Parts Department is closing 7pm this Friday. For good.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:34 PM   #477
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I thought they had a plan to keep the parts department open elsewhere????

Edit: sounds like the official announcement will be made tonight about what's happening: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...=607177&page=4
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:44 PM   #478
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Are all bushings on the NB rack molded to the rack itself? I don't know how I'm going to install the urethane one as the passenger side looks different.

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Old 04-27-2016, 12:49 PM   #479
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**** I don't follow miata.net. Much. Hopefully still close by
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:52 PM   #480
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What the hell? Is that a legit manual NB rack?
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