aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Nice. How are you connecting the AN lines to the hardlines.

If they are poly bushing arms then yes, add zerks.

lvw

Hey Cyber that is definitely an awsome car, so fast. You have set a new build standard for me I think. Great to meet the mind behind it too, it was a blast!

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

On the tank side, it'll probably just be -6AN to barb fitting with some synthetic rubber hose coupling to the pump/return.

The -6AN lines are 120" so they'll run to the front of the car, to the regulator and the rail. I think I'll be using the FM dual feed rail since everything is packaged to accept AN fittings, but for the stock rail, I imagine one could use the 5/16" SAE to AN adapter, but the return from the NB pulse damper/fpr might be tight. I'll post parts and final configuration when I turn the car down for a couple weeks. There will be multiple projects at the same time including sending my exhaust back to Abe/Artech for some mods and a new QUIETER MT.net approved muffler.


Let's do it again!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ahh, didn't know you were running AN6 the whole way, thought you were doing hardline stuff.

I'm using an adapter that goes from the stock FPR port to NPT, and then putting a NPT to AN adapter.

Its a turbosmart TS-0402-1002

Here is my crazy spreadsheet of all my fuel system stuffs.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

It includes bulkhead fittings to run AN lines all the way to the pump.

Mazdaspeeder

Hey, question. Friend of mine has a 1.6L Miata right now with the MSM trans and diff. It wears an FM turbo kit and is tuned on an MS2e I believe. He recently wrecked it on the track so being rebuilt at Planet Miata ATM but he wants to build a 1.6 in the meantime, and I'm trying to convince him to build a 1.8 instead. Aside from having to change the manifold, what else would he have to do? I know the head won't fit, so he'd need a long block 1.8. He already has the 949racing mounts, which probably wouldn't fit either.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

For the most part just exhaust and engine mounts. There will be little things like wiring, intake piping, but nothing huge.

Tell him I'll buy his 949 1.6 mounts asap.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Is there a downside to not bending/running hardlines? I just figured the braided AN hose will over more flexible routing and potentially fewer failure points. The only gripe I have at the moment is the placement of the FPR on the NA8 rail on the NB motor with a Square Top. That manifold eats up space.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

No braided is fine. I just mean stock hardlines, which is what I'm planning on running at the moment.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I typed up a long response, but I decided to just cut to the chase as Aidan already addressed it beautifully.

3 wires - 1.6L TPS to 1.8L TPS
2 wires - VVT (optional)
4 wires (optional) - 1.6L CAS to NB style Crank/Cam sensor
2-4 wires - Ignition depending on whether keeping batch or going sequential


So a 1.8L would take modifying 5-15 wires. And engine mounts. If ignition wiring is too scary, which it shouldn't be, then he can always just use his stock cas on the exhaust side of any 1.8L.

Technically he could still use the 1.6L alternator, waterpump pulley but I don't know why that'd be a benefit. I'll do the wiring in an evening if he builds the 1.8L

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Oh yea, the primary reason for this fuel upgrade really is to get rid of the old lines that have suffered 23 years of New England winters. I'm not savvy with hardline bending and am still not certain if I'm mounting this by the firewall or elsewhere.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Either way, tell him to sell me his 949 mounts.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

And sell the 949 mounts because he won't be able to reuse them on the 1.8

(Aidan you have 1.aids L? )

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yes. For the time being. I have 2 non-functional vvt engines in my garage. And not enough funds.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

How much does it cost to set up a diff? I got a quote of $500 (I'm supplying parts sans shims).

Clutch is also engaging quite high and at times I wonder if I even need to press the pedal to shift. Maybe I'll bleed the brakes, but I fear maybe it's time for a new clutch.

Not sure if I'll return to the Competition Stage 4. Any ideas?

I have a feeling my car is going to have some serious down time with a clutch job, diff, subframe, control arm and fuel mods to be done.

I need to tidy up the cold side intercooler piping and then start looking for a place to fix some rust.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ed got his setup for $300 I believe. Call around.

Twin disc, do eeet.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

That's a lot of dosh. How long they last? I think the only other option I have is the ACT XTG6 6 puck sprung.

How often do folks JUST replace the clutch disk and resurface flywheel? It seems components are floating around as though you can replace bits separately.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

The ceramic is supposed to last forever. Organic not super long. I just got new friction material on my discs for $100.

I don't see why you couldn't just replace the disc.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

FWIW I'm going to buy and install that puck disk on my ACT extreme pressure plate sometime. Mine slips with the organic disk now. I'm keeping the stock flywheel weight so no twin disk for me.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

That might be the cheapest option, but not sure if I feel comfortable mixing and matching clutch disks with the Competition Clutch Pressure Plate. Once I finish the flex-fuel conversion, I'm sure that the discs competition clutch offer won't hold.

Might be better for me to invest in the ACT. My flywheel has already been resurfaced once, is there a limit or thickness measurement one should abide by? Or FM Happy Meal 2 for daily drivability



I have a spare valve cover to powdercoat. Opinions on colors? candy purple, bright orange, puke green, white, classic/black/red, others?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, don't send it to BEGI.

I've always been a fan of wrinkle red and wrinkle black when done correctly.