nitrodann

Yep Im thinking the same but keep the replies coming. And what about the turbo outlet sized piping for 6 inches rather than straight up to 2"?

Dann

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

doesnt bother me. coupled with the hot exhaust, it'll keep the velocity up

nitrodann

Anyone else?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Its not that close, radiant heat is all I would worry about for that, just make sure the neither the manifold nor the pipe are black. Because black is the best absorber and emitter of heat radiation. If it really turns into an issue throw a heat shield in between them, a thin steel sheet between them will knock the surface temp of the pipe down a good bit.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Smooth transition is better than not smooth.

Try both, tell us what is better. Become the internet expert.

nitrodann

Lol, you are the internet expert around here.

Look, **** it ill do it with the small piping for a bit as it tapers up.

By the way tim, serious question, do we have the dyno for the current 2560 record holder to see his area under the curve to compare?

Dann

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

If the ID of your proposed smaller pipe matches the ID of the cast compressor housing, then it should be fine. No difference really, especially if it's only another ~6 inches or so. Stainless won't transfer as much heat too.

I thought Paul's dyno plot was posted in this thread earlier? I used to have it on Urbansoot's network but that all disappeared long ago. I probably have a .jpg on my hard drive if needed. Otherwise Scott has better plots of it overlaid on top of others.

nitrodann

Just for ***** and gig's heres a photo of each weld on the downpipe.







Dann

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Clean welds...Good job

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Yeah no kidding. Looks like you could give Full Race's robo-welder a run for it's money.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Now they're in this thread. I saved them primarily because of the gains from an intake manifold, bigger throttle body and retune.

nitrodann

Ok I did a quick sketch to show approximate graphs, the blue line is Pauls before custom manifold and bigger throttle, black is with the big manifold and TB, and the original image is the 1.6 with stock inlet side.



Dann

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

217 = 14psi
299 = BEGi IM, 70mm TB, 14psi
310 = BEGi IM, 70mm TB, 17psi



can you have your dyno operator fix his **** before you dyno again so it's not at 99% air density and a 0.63 correction...you acutally put down 474HP before corrections

nitrodann

Thanks for that.

How do I have have him do that?

My last car made the same power on his as it did in a dyno in Sydney. Are the corrections important if the numbers are right? I know little about the calibration of dynos.

Thanks,
Dann

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i have no clue. so long as it's a consistent measurement.

nitrodann

Cool,

Ok, here is the latest.

I got the manifold and turbo back from the machine shop all faces were machined flat, Should all seal gasket free, and of course using TrackSpeed's 10mm inconel studs. Everything drilled and tapped for this, including drilling the turbo before facing it.

The much discussed 1.75" turbo outlet hotside pipe.
it just goes from the turbo outlet size to 1.75" and then up to 2" at the end with tapers.


In this photo the pipes join with the wrong orientation but you can see the big bead on the 2'' section.


A few of how it sits on the car. It clears brackets, EWP, swaybar etc by enough to not rub too bad when the engine twists, I'm building a brace for the engine also to help the gearbox survive, it already has stiff mounts.




I added a turnbuckle to the manifold, I really hope this helps, I did the biggest welds on the manifold I could possibly do and still have them look ok, it should be ok with this, and then 2 braces on the downpipe and a flex pipe to the exhaust system.




Please give me all your feedback and criticism, what I could do better or anything you can see as any issues.

Thanks,
Dann

nitrodann

Did some today. All of the welds are not complete, and of course I need to fix that leak still and then assemble the car with proper fasteners etc. Dyno next week.

New exhaust, 3" mandrel SS. V band at the dump pipe, high flow 'cat' and the biggest magnaflow that fits.


My dump pipe vs the AVO one.


And this is how it looks finished but with a few welds that need finishing.
The intake wasnt my first choice but will have to be completely redone with the addition of the EFR so I figure for now it will do.




WOOOOOOOOOSH !!!


Again anything that anyone thinks is rubbish or should be redone or could be improved please start typing.



Dann

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Why did you do the intake that way?

Why not it turn the other direction and go behind the headlight, box it in, get cooler air?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Cause it'll have to be redone for the efr turbo anyways.

Without exhaust bigger than 3" or an open exhaust, a giant turbo, crazy built engine, etc, I don't see how this is going to be a record killer. Whats the power goal again?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Supposedly a 90* bend in any pipe will give you about as much internal drag as 20 feet of the same pipe if it were straight. I'm sure this varies with the radius of the bend. That being said, I would just come straight out of the turbo with the air filter.