All fixed up!
#1
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,490
Total Cats: 4,079
All fixed up! (Pics)
Replaced all my pressurized pipes with better silicone and t-clamp.
Installed a wastegate with an adjustable bracket for a better mounting position
Installed radiator scoop for a little better cooling
performed the parrell fan mod as well
Just need to install my new pads and brake fluid and I should be good for my next track event in late Aug
Installed a wastegate with an adjustable bracket for a better mounting position
Installed radiator scoop for a little better cooling
performed the parrell fan mod as well
Just need to install my new pads and brake fluid and I should be good for my next track event in late Aug
#10
I'm very curious to see your results with cooling scoop. There are two schools of thought - the scoop adds more air for increased flow OR the scoop actually disturbs the flow of air coming in the mouth and decreases the efficiency of flow. IMO the only way to figure out is to test it. I went the route of totally sealing off the mouth. I know that the reason most cars (and race cars) have small mouths with larger rad/IC/condenser surfaces to actually accelerate the air upon entry.
interesting stuff here
interesting stuff here
#11
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,490
Total Cats: 4,079
I'll be back at the track at the end of Aug. Otherwise I've never had a problem overheating on the street, even with the undertray off. It will take about 2 minutes to remove it so if it still starts to creep up in temps I can easily make runs without it and see the difference. If that doesn't work I'm going to be working on something that mounts to the same points but is flush with bottom of the oem splitter so only air comming into the mouth goes into it.
#12
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,490
Total Cats: 4,079
I ran Seafoam into it this afternoon. Sure did burn off a lot of gunk, idle smoothed way out (not that it wasn't already smooth), made the engine quite up a bit and it gained vacuum. I was impressed felt a lot smoother throughout the revs.
I finally swapped out my front pads with EBC Redstuff. Just bedding them in and I could feel the difference between those and the Greenstuff, however I think these bite from cold just as well. I'll have to see what it's like after I swap out the rears and bleed/flush the system. I completely destroyed my Greenstuff's on the track, they were cracked and failing apart and lost a lot of depth....at least they worked.
I finally swapped out my front pads with EBC Redstuff. Just bedding them in and I could feel the difference between those and the Greenstuff, however I think these bite from cold just as well. I'll have to see what it's like after I swap out the rears and bleed/flush the system. I completely destroyed my Greenstuff's on the track, they were cracked and failing apart and lost a lot of depth....at least they worked.
#19
I was visiting the guys at ART (Spec Miata folks) last year and they should me several dyno runs with the MAF in different positions. They contend that the power curve is smoother when it's on it's side, because the flapper door is working against gravity and doesn't jiggle (like when it's horizontal). Who knows if this will make any difference. Spec folks are always looking for a little bit of an edge.