Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

Okay well since this is the season to give, i decided to give... to my miata. I'm doing this by tearing down my car and turboing. I currently removed the manifold and the downpipe. Tomorrow i will mount my HKS mani and my Sr20 Turbo and hopefully get the pipes all figured out(easy becuase im only using WI). Than try to do the oil/water lines.

I will provide pictures as we go along... thanks again for all the support and help from everyone.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays, enjoy the time off (if you got some) .

Will update tomorrow and as progress comes along.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

sweet, when i get back can i come offer unhelpful suggestions?

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

yes, of course, who knows maybe i'll just push it to your house, and you can criticize me in person as i work on it.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

all right, just starting today, and i have a few questions.. First to rotate the middle section of my SR turbo ( the part where the oil feed/drain and water in out is) i just loosen the bolts on the exhaust housing correct? Second to rotate the snail i need to? And lastly, i need a source of coolant for the cooling. I by-passed my heater core, is it okay to simply jump in right there where i by-passed my heatercore and put a 180 connector?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I left your CHRA and compressor housing in the perfect position. Once you bolted the turbine housing on the CHRA would point a little bit towards the engine bay, leave the oil drain a bit off center so it's out of the way of the mounting flange.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

yeah, well the snail i want pointing toward the fender now haha. I got the exhaust housing off after i just cut it off with a cutting wheel. So i have to replace a few bolts... but now i want the compressor facing the fender because im not using an intercooler. Should i just buy some bent needle nose pliers?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah, I used heavy snap-ring pliers. Have fun, get ready to treat your hernia once you're done.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

haha, was it that tough? Well i'll tell the wifey to get ready to massage me. I'm hoping to be all finished by the first week of new year. I'll post pictures. Thanks again Scott for rebuilding the turbo.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l52/dow-tom/My%20Mx5/
http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...1225071426.jpg

Okay. Got the old manifold out and replaced with the HKS manifold for 1.8 Mx5.

Anyone with this know of an easier way to get to the bolts that are between the runners?

they're a bitch.

Ps, sorry for shitty pictures on phone.

Tomorrow i will get the bolts needed and the pliers to rotate the compressor and will begin the rest of the install.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I use a combination of wobble extensions, stubby ratchet box wrenches, and whatever else I can get in there to get the hard-to-get nuts.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

For the compressor snap ring go get some of these:


Then grind the tip a little and put a little hook on the inside edge so it bites real hood so it doesn't slip off. I can get these pliers for $8 or less locally. Large snap ring pliers are usually expensive as all hell. The cheap ones usually bend. Unless you have a HF locally and they have something that will work the 90* 8" needle nose work great.

Dow.tom

iTrader: (3)

yeah i have a HF and an ace. Well i got the exhuast off, i had to cut the heads off but the y unthreaded easy. tomorrow im gunna get all the bolts and studs i need. Than i'll mount the turbo, rotate it, and begin with my piping or my oil/water.

CJ you have a HKS mani too, did you have any problems getting to the studs between the runners? i can only use an open end wrench.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Here's what you gotta do. First, make sure all the nuts and bolts are clean and can be hand tightened. Start with the middle and the lower left bolts closest to the center. Take your manifold and place it on the engine block. Slide it out until there is enough thread to get the bolts going. Start screwing in the bolts and push the manifold in at the same time. There will become a point where the bolts slide past the tight spot. Hand crank it enough to get the manifold flush. You might have to use an open-ended socket if you can't twist the bolts by hand. Once these bolts are in place, you should be able to get to the others fairly easy.