kww502

iTrader: (3)

I have just swapped in a 1.8 into my 93 and upgraded my mark 1 link to use a iat sensor knock sensor and wideband. I currently do not have the wideband installed just the narrow band. The vehicle is getting spark, but I believe that the injectors are not opening. Due to the fuel feed is leaking at the pressure regulator added a better clamp and started leaking at the other end.

Where did u guys ground the wires coming from the fuel injector harness. Also the I have two connectors that are not hookup up to anything a clip by the power unit for the ignition which is two wires one is yellow/red and the other is white and red and the diagram shows a purge soleniod valve. The other is the blk/blu inhibitor switch. You guys have any answers on why it will not crank or any suggestions on what to check any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Which ignition coils did you use, and which way are the spark plug wires connected to them?

If you re-used the 1.6 coils, the wires need to be installed as they were on the 1.6 engine. As viewed from the front bumper looking back, the coil on the left side should be connected to the #2 and #3 plugs, and the coil on the right side to the #1 and #4 plugs.

With the 1.8 coils, it's opposite. The 2 / 3 plugs go to the coil on the right, and the 1 / 4 plugs to the coil on the left.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

I reused the coils from the 1.6 and referenced the chart per my manual I am rather sure they are hooked up correctly. I believe that fuel is getting to my fuel rail but my injectors are not opening. Joe do u now if I have to have the inhibitor switch hooked up or where or what it is and the other clip i was talking about in my post. Thanks for any help.

Just verified the plug wires are hooked up correctly to the coil.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

Well pulled fuel rail and injectors attached fuel injectors to rail with zipties and turned vehicle over was getting fuel to injectors but they are not opening or spraying any fuel. What could not be done right to keep injectors from opening. I still have no idea what the inhibitor switch is that the black/blue wire is not hooked up to and if that is way it is not allowing the injectors to open.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

What is this inhibitor switch of which you speak? I can't think of anything under the hood of a '93 which meets that description.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

Dont mind the listing that says inhibitor switch discovered that it is the water temp sensor that goes to the gauge in the dash. I still am not getting the injectors to open. That is my problem it is not igintion. I have spark. At first this morning I was not getting any voltage to the injectors. If I understand u are supposed to have 12 volts at all times when the key is in the on position. Then it grounds it to open the injector. I now have 12 volts but they are still not opening. I moved the ground to the rear of the head and that is when I obtained the 12 volts. Not sure what to check now.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

What is your MAP reading with the car off?

kww502

iTrader: (3)

my map reading is 100. How would the map reading cause my injectors to not open just wondering. Checked each fuel injector clip and they all have 11.8 v with the key in on position. 3 of them have 11.8 v to the second wire on the injector clip and the last does not. Called fm he asked if showed any rpm when starting vehicle. Does not stated to check were extended cas sensor wiring. Checked for open were spliced extension in no open. Guess I need to check for from computer to cas for an open. Any other things you guys think I may need to check.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

You can rotate the crank manually (plug wires NOT connected) and you should hear the injectors "click". That will let you verify the ground trigger and target your problem.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

m2cupcar can you specify a little more on verifying the ground trigger.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Well the reason I ask is that when I had a ground issue that resulted in the car not starting my MAP sensor was reading about 50kpa. Thought you might be in a similar situation.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Disconnect the plug wires. Turn the ignition all the way on, to the cranking position. Now rotate the crank with with a socket/rachet/wrench/tire iron. You'll be able to hear the injectors click at the respective firing points IF they're actually getting a signal. IF you do NOT hear the injectors clicking, then you do not have a trigger.

Also - if you lay your plug wires with plugs installed on the cam cover, you can see the spark plug ground to the cam cover and also hear the injectors click to actually document your combustion cycle and makes sure it's in proper sequence.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

Believe I figuired out my problem did not switch the 1.8 cas to the 1.6 cas. Pretty sure this would cause my problems will find out for sure tomorrow.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

Well swapped the 1.6 CAS in and tried to start the car. It turned over but did not seem to fire. Pretty sure the battery was pretty low on power, due to the fact it was turning over so slow. Not sure if the power was low caused it not to start did not perform any troubleshooting due to time constraints. Anyone know if the battery being low will keep it from firing. Any other suggestions would be great.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

You need to read up on the swap and find out exactly what needs to be done. IF the ecu is looking for the trigger off the INTAKE cam and you're sending it from the EXHAUST cam, it's most likely wrong. IOW you're spark event is not with the combustion cycle- Unless the exhaust cam is keyed exactly like the intake and even then I foresee a phase issue.

When I built a CAS for my FE swap, I re-keyed the 1.6 CAS disc so it's orientation to the exhaust cam index was exactly the same as it was on the 1.6 intake cam.

I think you're looking in the right place.

curly

iTrader: (25)

If the battery is turning the crank, it should have enough voltage to start the engine. This is assuming its timed, fueled, and sparked correctly. This does not however include the last couple dozen cranks the battery does before it dies and does not have enough juice to turn the crank.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It is common practice to install a 1.8 engine into a 1.6 car, using the 1.6's original wiring and ECU. Thus, the orientation of the CAS on the exhaust cam vs. the intake cam is sufficiently similar that it will work.

To the OP, you can use either the 1.6 CAS or the 1.8 CAS. Even if they are of different internal construction (hall effect vs. optical) the signal they produce is identical, as is their electrical connection.

I'd advise putting the 1.8 CAS back in, as you should at least have an idea of the correct orientation for it (I'm assuming there's a clean spot on the tab where the lock bolt goes.)

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Curly- I've actually had the starter load pull enough juice to kill spark on start with a weak battery. Though I'd think the circumstances for that to happen would have to be just right.

Yeah, I'm not familiar with the NA 1.8 CAS, but figured reading up on the swap would reveal the proper way to approach the CAS. I just compared the keyed slot on the two cams and then adjusted CAS wheel accordingly. Next I did the manual rotation with the cam cover off, ignition on, plugs grounded to watch the event and confirm it was proper.

kww502

iTrader: (3)

Well I finally got to work on the car today after being very busy with school and family problems. I took a little while and listed everything it could be recharged the battery installed it tried to start car just starting turning motor over but no signs of starting. Checked the spark plug wires versus the wiring diagram on miata.net instead of my haynes manual and of course the wires were installed for a 1.8 not a 1.6 switched them and it started on the 3rd turn of the key. The car idles and set timing with cas from 1.6 but could not get it exactly at 10 btdc. So will have to switch back to the 1.8 cas and set the timing. Had a couple leaks will have to stop those as well.
The link keypad is not showing the n for neutral signal hopefully will get this stuff squared away this week, but have only been working on car early or late in the day due to the heat of 105 heat index plus.

Thanks for your help guys. Just for everyone elses in the future the link will not show an rpm signal when cranking if plug wires are hooked up in wrong order.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Yay. If it's the neutral switch, it CAN be changed without messing with the trans. I remember messing around with an assortment of sockets and wrenches to find something that worked. You just need to break it loose and then can unthread it by hand. You need that switch to work.