Greetings to all!
- Intro and Parts list
- One last drive, drain fluids, remove intake & air box
- Remove Exhaust Manifold (and exhaust)
- Oil feed & return
- Install Turbo Manifold and Turbo!
- Intercooler install and pipe routing
- Clutch Install and Rear Main seal
- Vacuum lines, IAT, Gauges
----- I have once again boosted my Miata. (I have replaced my original setup I made in 2011). And wanted to recreate a thread for the purpose of helping others. Now when it comes down to adding a turbo to your Miata, also take into account other parts you could be replacing while you're "under" there.
With that said, let's get to a general parts list.
Prices and options will be around cost before/after shipping. Give or take a few dollars here and there.
No specific order of importance here:
- BEGI or Flying Miata cast Manifold $400 (or something close in quality)
- Flying Miata level 1 Clutch kit $350 + shipping
- CXracing intercooler and piping $200
- NGR type S Blow off valve $165 (excellent piece, I would buy no other)
- t25 or t3 turbo. will range from $200 to $1200 depending on what route you want to go. I'm running a small t3 Air Research from a Saab that I rebuilt.
-Oil feed tee. The PROPER one $26 OR oil filter sandwich plate $35
-Oil feed line w/ fittings : anywhere between $30-60 depending
-Oil return line : hose barb and heater hose; cheapo route $15
-Begi Vacuum block $43
-LC1 or AEM wideband $170 - $250
-RX8 Denso 425cc plug and play injectors: used $100-200
-Flyin Miata boost gauge $70
-Megasquirt 3 ECU built by "......" or bought used $600-800
-A Pillar gauge pod from Flying Miata $50 (or vent install)
**Items and such not listed:
----downpipe: will vary depending on style of turbine housing. I have a 5 bolt turbine housing, with a 5 bolt to vband w/ swingarm adapter, and then welded to the vband is a very sharp 90 degree elbow down to the rest of my exhaust. Pics should explain this.
----wastegate "things": Again, depending on the turbo you pick up, it may already include an internal gate mounted to the compressor housing or as with mine or similar, you can modify a bracket to bolt to the compressor housing and then connect the rod at the swing arm. *** Begi offers an external gated manifold. I would definitely go this route if I felt like having a dump tube fabricated.
----vacuum lines lol
----having your blow off valve flange and IAT bung welded to your intercooler piping.
----Coolant reroute: I'm not going into detail about this but if you own a Miata, you know the benefit to performing this upgrade. Now would be a good time since the trans will be off and it'll help clean up room for your cold side piping to throttle body. Prices vary from diy, to vendors selling kits. Google is your friend here. I have not done this job yet sadly but one day I will.
----EGR block off plate. simple and easy if you choose to delete it. purchase your manifold according to the setup you plan to run. I have deleted my EGR.
So not including turbo and using rough numbers here, All these parts listed go for around $2400. Keep in mind you will find things used, or on sale. Plenty of money can be saved sourcing out some used deals. A popular choice for turbo is the t25 from a Nissan SR20Det motor. These can be found for $100 and rebuilding them is easy, there's even a video on youtube if you're up for it. I've ran a garrett t3 from a SVO mustang, a godspeed t3t4 super60, and now my current T3 Air research .48 AR hot side from an older Saab. I rebuilt this turbo with a G-POP shop kit and it is doing excellent. To each their own, we all just want more power right.
-Oil and filter $40
-Fuel Filter $20
-gaskets: oil pan (if you go that far), exhaust manifold, rear main seal, intake plenum/ manifold $ can you put you around $50
-gear oil for trans. $20 a qt for ford motorcraft XT-M5-QS or buy some other good stuff. Need at least 2 quarts.
-differential fluid. I'm running lucas synthetic 75w90. Choose at your leisure
-brake pads and rotors: your car is going to be in the air, why not knock out replacing all your rotors and pads.
------ Take your car for it's last ride in the N/A life, maybe even make some videos for some comparison afterwards.
Pull it into your garage, put it up on 4 stands, and have 4 pans/buckets ready to drain your coolant, motor oil, gear oil, and/or differential oil if needed.
Now everything is drained, clean up your spills, put back in the plugs and let's proceed. (don't forget to fill everything you drained once that time comes)
*Let's make this clear one more time. I have a 2000 Mazda Miata, some things may be different for your Miata, and if you see me talking about megasquirt things but you are not going the megasquirt route, ignore it.
Get plenty of lighting available. Remove your airbox and intake tube, be careful with the AIT plug since you'll reuse that for megasquirt things.
-----The exhaust manifold, cat, and exhaust are simple enough. If you already have some sort of cat-back exhaust, then you're one step ahead of the game.
The EGR tube will be a pain but if you're deleting it, go ahead and remove the 2 bolts holding it in the back of the intake manifold.
Next let's tackle the tedious work: Oil return and feed.
-----OIL RETURN: Now I have tapped the pan with it in the car and out of the car. Even when I had my motor out of the car (this 2nd time around) I still tapped it with the pan on the motor. I did not want to deal with removing the pan
Here is what I picked up from Menards (similar to Home Depot or Lowes)
The cool thing with the drill bit is that you can carefully open it, use it, clean it, and return it for a refund. The sucker is about $40. Be sure to get this one as it steps up quick, the longer bits can hit your oil pick up tube and I don't need to explain why that is a bad deal.
If you're keeping A/C, there is a spot right under the bracket that is suitable. On my old setup, I drilled into the corner of the pan; it was still functional but routing my drain line to it was a pain in the ***. I'm glad this 2nd time around I chose the under A/Cbracket spot. Look up Flyin' Miata's turbo kit install pdf if you want the measurements for proper placement.
Keep your bit greased and press on. Clean it off time to time and reapply.
The bit is marked on the steps so you know when you've reached you're desired hole size. I kept a piece of painters tape on it so I could monitor how close I was to that size.
Now tap it and use your pinky to get all the filings you can out. The bit will catch most of them but there will still be some in the pan directly beneath the hole and inner edges.
-- You can also use the compressed air method, flush with mineral spirits method, or somewhere I've seen it where oil was just left in the motor so it would ooze out and push filings out once you punctured but I've been content with my procedure.
For the hose barb, I put just JB weld on the last bit of threads and threaded it in slowly. Never had issues doing this and now your oil return is functional.
The following 2 pics were done on the car on my original setup.