diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
11-19-2015, 08:48 AM
#403
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The differential is whistling. Again.
It's like the fifth in a row, this time it lasted 16 days
Any advice?
I think I have two choices:
-overbuild with a stronger differential but without the ppf
-lower the pressure
-change the turbine with something bigger (less torque)
-sell the car
Since option #2 is not possible what would you do?
It's like the fifth in a row, this time it lasted 16 days
Any advice?
I think I have two choices:
-overbuild with a stronger differential but without the ppf
-lower the pressure
-change the turbine with something bigger (less torque)
-sell the car
Since option #2 is not possible what would you do?
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11-19-2015, 09:39 AM
#404
Find out what you are doing wrong that is destroying the diffs.
And it's not just sheer torque.
Bundy just posted about how his is still fine and he blew up 15 transmissions from pure torque and super hard track use, so I highly doubt your failures are from just too much power.
Either something is mis-aligned, or they keep getting put together wrong (if even taken apart, that is), or bad fluid, or something.
And it's not just sheer torque.
Bundy just posted about how his is still fine and he blew up 15 transmissions from pure torque and super hard track use, so I highly doubt your failures are from just too much power.
Either something is mis-aligned, or they keep getting put together wrong (if even taken apart, that is), or bad fluid, or something.
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11-19-2015, 03:59 PM
#409
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I'm honestly demotivated.
I done what I could, but the differential assembly isn't a thing that I want made myself, and this time I want to be sure is the last one.
What if I give the differential to another machine shop and it brokes again? I don't want this happen.
The only thing that I can do is unbolt the old unit and put in another one. It's pretty much straightforward, I don't believe that is my fault... I even torqued everything to mazda specs...
The last time I reinstalled the oem suspensions, trying to exclude even the uncorrect shafts angle (it was too low)
I honestly don't know where to smash my skull
I done what I could, but the differential assembly isn't a thing that I want made myself, and this time I want to be sure is the last one.
What if I give the differential to another machine shop and it brokes again? I don't want this happen.
The only thing that I can do is unbolt the old unit and put in another one. It's pretty much straightforward, I don't believe that is my fault... I even torqued everything to mazda specs...
The last time I reinstalled the oem suspensions, trying to exclude even the uncorrect shafts angle (it was too low)
I honestly don't know where to smash my skull
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11-19-2015, 04:02 PM
#410
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oh, and by the way, holding the brake in sixth gear I can reach 7psi (0.5 bar) since 2500 rpm and 21 psi (1.5 bar) since 3000 rpm.
Yeah, yesterday I was bored during a 400km trip
Yeah, yesterday I was bored during a 400km trip
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11-19-2015, 04:02 PM
#411
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Can't blame you there -- this would be seriously demotivating.
Would you please summarize your diff adventures into one post? Lots of info spread over several pages.
Tell us what diffs broke, when, and how you fixed/replaced them.
Would you please summarize your diff adventures into one post? Lots of info spread over several pages.
Tell us what diffs broke, when, and how you fixed/replaced them.
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11-19-2015, 04:17 PM
#412
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first: mazda oem unit 3.636 + torsen, never opened.
Good until I tuned to 21 psi and it started to whistle. (from here I still ran 21 psi)
second: mazda oem 4.2 open, never opened. Two days and the left shaft escaped about 10mm out from the diff, letting the oil exit from the seal: wasted the third day. It was installed perfectly, I don't know why happened.
Bought new elastic rings for the shafts, oem of course. Raised the car with the oem suspension to exclude the excessive shaft angle.
Third: my first case with torsen, new r&p, new bearings, new seals and new crush sleeve.
One day after installation started to whistle.
Fourth: same differential, same case, just adjusted the tolerances (local machine shop)
lasted around six hours and started to whistle again
Fifth: same case, new r&p. The bearings had less than 250 km, we leaved them. This time I sent the case to another machine shop far away (very good reputation here).
It lasted 16 days. Now it's whistling again.
This saturday I will dyno on a mustang dyno, just to see how much torque I'm putting down. Sure enough I'm under 300hp, but the torque is real
Good until I tuned to 21 psi and it started to whistle. (from here I still ran 21 psi)
second: mazda oem 4.2 open, never opened. Two days and the left shaft escaped about 10mm out from the diff, letting the oil exit from the seal: wasted the third day. It was installed perfectly, I don't know why happened.
Bought new elastic rings for the shafts, oem of course. Raised the car with the oem suspension to exclude the excessive shaft angle.
Third: my first case with torsen, new r&p, new bearings, new seals and new crush sleeve.
One day after installation started to whistle.
Fourth: same differential, same case, just adjusted the tolerances (local machine shop)
lasted around six hours and started to whistle again
Fifth: same case, new r&p. The bearings had less than 250 km, we leaved them. This time I sent the case to another machine shop far away (very good reputation here).
It lasted 16 days. Now it's whistling again.
This saturday I will dyno on a mustang dyno, just to see how much torque I'm putting down. Sure enough I'm under 300hp, but the torque is real
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11-19-2015, 04:28 PM
#413
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Third, 4th and 5th COULD be errors in adjustments or parts. Second lost its oil, so it makes sense why it went pop. First diff... how was it a 3.636 but never opened?
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot.
But a Getrag upgrade is balleur.
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot.
But a Getrag upgrade is balleur.
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11-19-2015, 04:32 PM
#415
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Third, 4th and 5th COULD be errors in adjustments or parts. Second lost its oil, so it makes sense why it went pop. First diff... how was it a 3.636 but never opened?
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot.
But a Getrag upgrade is balleur.
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot.
But a Getrag upgrade is balleur.
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11-28-2015, 10:45 AM
#417
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I want to try the last time. Oem 4.1 open diff with just 40.000 km on it. It's the less used one I found
It seems to be in great shape:
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