DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

doc race ebay manifold looks legit someone buy this

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by samwu8k
aww man i dont wanna melt stuff and have fitment issues.

how can u guys tell its not sc40 pipe? is it cuz it comes with that cast look on the surface compared to the smooth finish on the piping they used?
It doesn't look like any that I've seen, but I could be wrong and I don't have the most keen eye for this. Even when Abe hit mine with the wire-wheel, it didn't look that glossy. I doubted that it was sch-40 because that detail was not provided in the description.

You also need to make sure they used a TiAL v-band flange and welded on a male-side rather than a female.
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:46 AM
  #22  
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So, does the hood close with that setup? Looks really close.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:46 AM
  #23  
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Its funny because their "proven 900whp manifolds" dont list ---- about the actual piping.... Pipe diameter, pipe thickness.. no usefull info at all. And their flange looks like they cut it on a bandsaw without even facing it... and at last 795 with 60 bucks shipping.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:04 AM
  #24  
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i like how it only made 200rwhp.

it's a shitty design; the placement is horrible.



this made me laugh:

We started this build by selecting a properly sized turbo and a DOC Race turbo manifold.
...
Precision PT5557 Turbo
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fwMiata
So, does the hood close with that setup? Looks really close.
Looks like it should have room.

206/171 is pretty weak though. Did they tune it for 4-5psi?

I like the placement design only because it keeps everything away from the heater hoses and master cylinder. Looks like it should have some supporting though.
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:35 PM
  #26  
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So instead of melting heater hoses and boiling brake fluid, you're melting power steering, ac, and lower rad hoses, and boiling ps fluid.

PHAIL
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
So instead of melting heater hoses and boiling brake fluid, you're melting power steering, ac, and lower rad hoses, and boiling ps fluid.

PHAIL
Man u been spending too much time with Fae.

It says not compatible with power steering.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:21 PM
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---- that manifold.

Miatas are now the new "baller" car to buy and slam and do stupid ---- with, which means we will see lots of stupid ---- ---- like this. I ------- hate this ----, all these retards have to ---- up all the best ------- cars to play with so all the cars and engines and parts get torn up and expensive. Fills me with hate.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
---- that manifold.

Miatas are now the new "baller" car to buy and slam and do stupid ---- with, which means we will see lots of stupid ---- ---- like this. I ------- hate this ----, all these retards have to ---- up all the best ------- cars to play with so all the cars and engines and parts get torn up and expensive. Fills me with hate.
Please tell us how you really feel.
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:34 PM
  #30  
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someone on here needs to buy one and test for us
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:42 PM
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I'm sure you can trick some one on CR.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:49 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
Man u been spending too much time with Fae.

It says not compatible with power steering.
and yet the OP has one clearly still on the car.

either way, you're right next to the lower rad hose (unless you re-locate) and even more crowded toward the front for no apparent reason: its not bottom mount for optimal downpipe routing. its not side-mount for more compact-ness, and its not top mount to retain p/s. its like the worst of everything.

someone please explain to me the advantages of that placement aside from " EET LEWKS KEEWL DAWGGG"
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by pusha
someone on here needs to buy one and test for us
x2.

i went trough their website and they got some really nice cars coming trough their shop, they might not be miata experts but they arent noobz either. they tuned the car to 200 hp as a break in or something and claimed it should push somewhere in the 300s with a good tune. the turbo itself is capable, i doubt the stock motor could sustain that power level for long. although this manifold might not be the optimal design wastegate wise it reminds me of the full race-manifolds for s2k and those look sick as well.

ive also noticed alot of turbo manifolds for honda k-series engines usually hang the turbo wayy off to the side of the engine bay with some pretty long runners. seems like they are completely unbraced as well. but then again im just ur avg ricer so perhaps idk what im lookin @

Last edited by samwu8k; 07-08-2012 at 02:34 AM.
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:51 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by samwu8k
they tuned the car to 200 hp as a break in or something and claimed it should push somewhere in the 300s with a good tune. the turbo itself is capable, i doubt the stock motor could sustain that power level for long.

when the last time you needed a boost break-in?
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:07 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
So instead of melting heater hoses and boiling brake fluid, you're melting power steering, ac, and lower rad hoses, and boiling ps fluid.

PHAIL
lol

I don't have PS or AC, so that didn't cross my mind.

IMO, the lower rad hose is easier to shield or cover than the tight radius heater hoses.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Vashthestampede
lol

I don't have PS or AC, so that didn't cross my mind.

IMO, the lower rad hose is easier to shield or cover than the tight radius heater hoses.
Sure it wouldn't matter for the people who don't have a/c,p/s, but I think the point is that for that much money you shouldn't have to deal with things like that, including shielding your lower rad hose.

ARtech can make you a bad ***** fugga twin scroll sex manifold for that price.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:55 AM
  #37  
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Pics from a guy on the MT facebook page (not the legit OG chat)



Manifold is not compatible with headlight motors...
Attached Thumbnails doc race ebay manifold looks legit someone buy this-599550_2327799290676_750986511_n.jpg   doc race ebay manifold looks legit someone buy this-599254_415044425198642_708803349_n.jpg  
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:21 AM
  #38  
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I can smell the heater core return line melting from here. Do you suppose they could clock the air intake down 30* so it could be completely behind the radiator? That way you could get very consistent IAT in the 200* range.
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:43 AM
  #39  
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i like the flimsy brace, that will crack within a few hours.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
i like the flimsy brace, that will crack within a few hours.


Brain called it. Anyone else wanna argue for sch.10 stainless manifolds?????

Originally Posted by MT facebook guy
Cracked dead center of the weld and they still wouldn't swap it out. Only would they repair it and this is my dd.

I asked them if they purge the Manu with Argon while the weld it and they said no. Lol I highly don't recommend DOC RACING!





Yo, OP. Get your faggette-**** back in here and tell us how you want this thing because it's "menacing looking".
Attached Thumbnails doc race ebay manifold looks legit someone buy this-1540837-are_you_a_wizard_large.jpeg   doc race ebay manifold looks legit someone buy this-428800_415176528518765_1970385975_n.jpg  
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