Clos561

iTrader: (3)

looking for input on a vta dump setup. Abe from artech said that if i run a vta dump tube for the ewg that it would need bracing or eventually it would crack the wg weld on the manifold.

Anyone running a similar setup and not have problems with the wg flange cracking?

should i be worried?

JayL

iTrader: (12)

If the dump tube is short, I wouldn't worry.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

If the dump tube is short, it dumps on a control arm or the motor/transmission and you burn stuff.

If the dump tube is long enough to get underneath everything and actually dump on the ground, you'll crack the EWG off the manifold in short order. Mine lasted about 3 months. I don't even think Tim will build an EWG dump downpipe anymore, after the problems we had with it on my car. We recirc'd after that happened and have had absolutely no problems since then.

Clos561

iTrader: (3)

was taht 3 months of tracking ur car? my car is a daily driver, hoenstly jsut want to vta dump for rice factor

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

is it sad that i think my car gets too loud when internal wastegate opens?

Clos561

iTrader: (3)

lol very, i have heard tyson ewg dump and its not that loud to be honest. u think i should pay abe 160 for him to make a braced vta dump to the floor?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

i ran my EWG VTA all season with no brace and it went all the way to 1/4" below the subframe.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

3 months of time. If I had to guess, 4 track days or ~6 hours of track time. It happened pretty damn quick.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

"I'm a ricer, I want something that breaks."

******* brilliant logic.

Clos561

iTrader: (3)

thats why im asking for feedback from those who have it before i decide on which route to take

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I'd avoid it. You're basically putting a super long tuning fork on the end of the EWG - the vibration at 7000rpm is going to be absolutely catstrophic. You need to support it from the other end, and the easy way is to dump it into the DP.

Better performance, too - the vacuum the exhaust pulls on the EWG dump promotes wastegate flow and limits boost creep/overshoot.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

the vibrations around 5000 were way worse than 7000.
you can brace the EWG dump to the block if your worried about it.... not the body because the engine flexes and will rip it off.

the performance does not change unless you have an overboosting problem.

JayL

iTrader: (12)

Also might want to think about where you drive your car. I was asked to leave Portland International Raceway because my car was too loud, not the way I planned on ending my day. That was all it took for me to redo my setup. Once I got rid of the vta, I did lose about 15whp. I'm sure at lower power levels it's not as critical, but something to think about.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Well, next time step to a 4" exhaust after the cat [area], and replumb it then!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Who is overboosting with a 38mm gate? Hell, that's only 20% smaller than the inducer on the turbine.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

6hours?! My warrantee only covers 5. I thought it broke like...right away, then you had someone MIG it, then it broke all the way off, creating all sorts of fun hairline cracks everywhere which was fun to grind out Buzz buzz buzzzz.

Having an EWG dump would be easier/cheaper to do but only with proper bracing at the end of the dump. Hell, my downpipes are typically more expensive than the manifolds because of the required slips/joints/blends! Sav's first downpipe didn't have any of the expensive double slips or vbands or flex joints or blends and was much easier to install. I haven't recently thought about EWG ATM dumps much however. Hell the cheapest brace would be simple U bolt exhaust clamps on both pipes with a simple strap connecting each pipe/clamp. All you should really need to do is keep the dump tube end from vibrating.

ARTech

iTrader: (34)

The proper way is braced to the engine or DP with a flex joint close to the wastegate end. That's what I quoted. I can make it unbraced or without a flex for much less, if you want, but no warranty against cracking. You can brace it yourself and save a little money. If you can figure out a way to brace it in a way that it doesn't vibrate, but still allows for thermal expansion, you shouldn't need a flex joint anyway.

dingo7

Sounds like the man knows his ****

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Abe and Tim are gangsters with a torch.