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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-11-2016, 10:54 PM   #41
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Its because he has little or no intake tract.
It recirculates inside the valve but the air coming in is no match for the speed of sound coming out and there is little restriction to the sound through the small intake path/unrestricted filter.

Dann
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:59 PM   #42
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Love the build!

Interested to see if these EFR turbos don't have boost creep issues like the garret turbos. The internal waste gate design looks to be much better at bypassing flow.
i ran the wastegate source to a point after the intercooler to avoid boost sag...can see/hear the wastegate opening while driving so it seems to be working well. Of course this is only with a 5lb spring, but I'll keep the same spring when I start tuning boost control so i think it should be just fine
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:37 PM   #43
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Can't get the stage 8 stuff to fit, so I'm going to replace those with some copper locking nuts.]
Me too
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:02 AM   #44
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You just need to sand the tabs down a little sometimes, its all good.

Dann
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:54 AM   #45
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Every time req fuel has been off for my friends and I, it has been a mater of inccorect dead time settings.
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Old 09-12-2016, 12:47 PM   #46
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You just need to sand the tabs down a little sometimes, its all good.

Dann
Unfortunately the EFR's wastegate discharge does not allow much more than a small nut and washer below it as it interferes with the stud.

I ended up using Stage 8 on three of the four studs and just used a OEM nut from Nissan on that one stud. Held up well.

Great build!
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:46 PM   #47
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added a flex fuel sensor, headed to the dyno tomorrow. still only on 5lb spring pressure.



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Old 10-12-2016, 08:49 AM   #48
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Did you ever solve the reqFuel issue? I just bought ID1000s yesterday and am going to be installing them soon. What MS settings are you running for them?
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:44 AM   #49
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Did you ever solve the reqFuel issue? I just bought ID1000s yesterday and am going to be installing them soon. What MS settings are you running for them?
i put reqfuel back down to 3, but had to double
my fuel table. Should figure it out today.
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:34 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
Unfortunately the EFR's wastegate discharge does not allow much more than a small nut and washer below it as it interferes with the stud.

I ended up using Stage 8 on three of the four studs and just used a OEM nut from Nissan on that one stud. Held up well.

Great build!
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00 View Post
Me too
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramensoop View Post
Can't get the stage 8 stuff to fit, so I'm going to replace those with some copper locking nuts.
You need specific EFR studs.

Savington at TSE makes some.
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:50 PM   #51
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No, even with my TSE studs the stage 8 hardware didnt want to go on. It would fit over the stud just fine, but there wasnt enough clearance for the big teardrop peice to fit next to the turbo. I had to cut some material off.
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:50 PM   #52
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Oh yeah, I ground the **** out of my stage 8 downpipe bolts.
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:13 PM   #53
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I have the tse stud/stage 8 kit. I'll just file down the locks a bit to fit.
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:32 PM   #54
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Yah ur gonna have to do that. After my track day I noticed that they fell off somehow.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:09 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
You need specific EFR studs.

Savington at TSE makes some.

See above. Still won't fit.

Nissan's studs are Inconel and are ~$4-5 vs a full TSE stud kit. It's worked just fine for me with standard hardware. I also ended up using Norlock washers and after 8-9 trackdays (one with 100+ degree outside temps for the entire day), no issues with backing out. I also made sure to hang the downpipe correctly and that alleviated a majority of my problems. I was also only 3-320 WHP on my 240, so also not full 400WHP heat issues.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
See above. Still won't fit.

Nissan's studs are Inconel and are ~$4-5 vs a full TSE stud kit. It's worked just fine for me with standard hardware. I also ended up using Norlock washers and after 8-9 trackdays (one with 100+ degree outside temps for the entire day), no issues with backing out. I also made sure to hang the downpipe correctly and that alleviated a majority of my problems. I was also only 3-320 WHP on my 240, so also not full 400WHP heat issues.
Backing out isn't the issue we use inconel studs to solve. The issue that miata's have with studs is them stretching. It is also people who are a good bit faster then spec miata times that have the issues.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:32 PM   #57
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Not sure what I'm seeing. The TSE EFR studs take that into account. IIRC one is shorter than the rest.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:38 PM   #58
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aidandj, The issue is not with stud length, but with the locking hardware. The Stage 8 stuff is a fair bit taller (considering the locking shank or whatever it is called) is itself 1-2 mms thick. Anything apart from a standard nut, regardless of stud length, suffer from a severe lack of room. The wastegate discharge runs right over one of the studs in most cases.

Here is an example. A shorter stud does help, but not with Stage 8 or any other hardware that adds height. It seems the TSE kit uses the standard locking hardware as well. I am not seeing where they include a shorter stud?? According to their directions

Quote:
3) Reinstall your turbocharger and install the four provided Stage 8 fasteners. On the lower, rear-most fastener, apply Resbond 907TS to the threads of the stud/nut. The Stage 8 retainer/clip interferes with the turbine housing. Tighten all nuts to approximately 10-15 ft.lbs.
But I could also be very wrong. I am sure Savington will tell me if I am incorrect. But from my experience, using the Stage 8 hardware was a no-go on the side with the wastegate discharge. I also had my housing ceramic coated, so I wasn;t doing myself any favors either.





Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Backing out isn't the issue we use inconel studs to solve. The issue that miata's have with studs is them stretching. It is also people who are a good bit faster then spec miata times that have the issues.
The stretching is a precursor to them stretching and unwinding the nuts and then the studs themselves backing out entirely from the flange.

The SR20DET (what I used for track days and such) guys have suffered this just as long, if not longer, than Miata guys. I am on the throttle at Summit main a fair bit with just 200 TW tires for it to be problem for me initially.
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:11 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
The Stage 8 stuff is a fair bit taller (considering the locking shank or whatever it is called) is itself 1-2 mms thick. Anything apart from a standard nut, regardless of stud length, suffer from a severe lack of room. The wastegate discharge runs right over one of the studs in most cases.
You have it right. We actually verified nominal dimensions with both Borg Warner and Stage 8 before releasing our final EFR kit. The tightest allowable specification in that location (under the WG discharge, or what I usually refer to as "rear lower") is 8mm, the same as what Stage 8 nuts are supposed to be. On the tightest housings, you will see a machining pass there that's exactly 8mm. Many of the newer shell-mold turbine housings I've seen have a lot more room than that. Yours actually has plenty of room there - at least 10mm if those are 1.25mm threads. IOW, you could have used Stage 8's nut there. I put a little Resbond on that nut and it's fine, but you can use a Nissan copper locker as well. The Stage 8 locking tabs fit everywhere else with just a little trimming to clear your particular turbine housing as necessary.
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:19 PM   #60
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Thanks savington. I had had several housings with the varying molds and I have had the pleasure (or displeasure.......) of experiencing all of them . That directly affected the effective volume one had available in that specific area.

The picture above is not mine directly, but was one of the newer housing molds for reference. The older molds made it impossible in that area.
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