My 2 cents...let's just assume that you plan on running at 2 psi:
I don't think that your problem will be heat/timing. Running 8 degrees of base timing and 91/93 octane will probably be sufficent. If you really wanted to be cautious, you could go to 6 of base timing.
Big problem (obviously
) will be fueling. I looked at my base dyno for a 1.6, but the 1.8 is similar in terms of stock ecu fueling. Car runs in closed loop up to about 4k rpm and it shows as an afr that hovers around 14.7 before 4k rpm. I'd avoid boosting within this range b/c your stock ecu will shoot for an afr of 14.7 here which is on the lean side for FI, but who knows, maybe this is a good place to test as the ecu would add fuel to try to get to 14.7. I'm not sure. I'd also be careful around 5300 rpm b/c that is where the HP/torque curves cross and the car will be more prone to detonate. So...if
you were going to test it out, your safest bet is above 5500 rpm where the car is in open loop and runs on the richer side already. My stock afr above 5500 rpm was 12-12.5 and lower at higher rpms. That does not guarantee you safety and I know it doesn't give you much of the rev range to work with, but based on the A/F ratio of a stock computer, it's the safest place to "try" it.
Also might be worth it to check out your base pressure of your stock fuel pump. You figure most people find that a base pressure of ~44-48 + 6 psi of fuel per psi boost (as a rule of thumb) and you would need around 56-60 psi of fuel at 2 psi of boost. If your base pressure is on the low end, you might want to reconsider.
Finally, the ghetto method would be to disconnect your o2 sensor. Your car with idle like crap and throw an error code, but the car would run in safe mode and dump in fuel like crazy.
I'd probably wait, but I know that's pretty damn hard to do...