Seeping around pan oil return fitting !
#1
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Seeping around pan oil return fitting !
I drilled and threaded my pan a couple of years ago for the braided oil return line, put Teflon tape on the fitting threads and screwed it in. I could not go too deep because it would touch something…
I get seepage around the hole. JB weld did stop it for a while.
Anybody else have that issue and have any fixes ?
Thanks
I get seepage around the hole. JB weld did stop it for a while.
Anybody else have that issue and have any fixes ?
Thanks
#2
If you want to use a braided return line with a flare fitting, you need to weld a bung into the pan.
The pan material is thick/strong enough to support a hose-style pipe-thread fitting with a rubber/silicone hose attached. Bit it is not strong enough to support the much-stiffer braided hose.
The pan material is thick/strong enough to support a hose-style pipe-thread fitting with a rubber/silicone hose attached. Bit it is not strong enough to support the much-stiffer braided hose.
#3
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Thanks!
Mine looks like this but my hose is straighter
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...326_192844-jpg
Mine looks like this but my hose is straighter
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...326_192844-jpg
#4
If you want to use a braided return line with a flare fitting, you need to weld a bung into the pan.
The pan material is thick/strong enough to support a hose-style pipe-thread fitting with a rubber/silicone hose attached. Bit it is not strong enough to support the much-stiffer braided hose.
The pan material is thick/strong enough to support a hose-style pipe-thread fitting with a rubber/silicone hose attached. Bit it is not strong enough to support the much-stiffer braided hose.
#5
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BTW my oil pan fitting does not seem to be loose but rather leaking.
Think I'm going to turn the fitting slightly with a wrench to get a feel if it is bottomed out against whatever it hit in the pan initially. This will break the JB weld around it and I'll go from there.
Think I'm going to turn the fitting slightly with a wrench to get a feel if it is bottomed out against whatever it hit in the pan initially. This will break the JB weld around it and I'll go from there.
Last edited by poobs; 08-08-2014 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Added
#8
Best to put in a bung. If you go the JB Weld route with a stiff line, then make sure the parts are super clean for the JB Weld operation (brake cleaner or carb cleaner works well) and then setup the length of the line so there is as little force on the fitting as possible. Keep an eye on it. The pan just isn't that thick.
#10
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JB weld should be fairly viscous when you first mix it. It always goes on rough and with "brush" marks (I usually use a scrap of zip tie to put it on), but always smooths out by the time it dries.
#15
I'm about to put a new NPT fitting in my already-drilled-and-tapped-by-PO pan so I can use a flare fitting instead of a barbed one. Would it be acceptable to use permatex thread sealant in place of JB Weld? It's what I have laying around. I'm guessing the answer is a no. Is the oil pan really that thin? How thin are we talkin? I guess I'll find out soon...
#17
Boost Pope
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For an in-car fitment where TIG welding isn't an option, I personally wouldn't use anything other than a thick, 2 party epoxy. JB Weld, Scotch-Weld DP460, etc. You need something that's both a strong adhesive and also a seam-filler
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