Post up your DIY Heat shields!
02-20-2008, 01:08 PM
#22
That piece does more that you think - it's the top to the front end "box" that helps reduce twist on the chassis. I don't think you're car will fall apart, but consider that most add bracing to the car to improve it's handling, you're probably at a deficit now.
Nope, my compressor wheel chops up the leaves pretty well, and the turbine turns the rain to steam before it can get inside my engine. Of course I'm totally vulnerable to the small animals since I don't have a belly pan (under tray). I guess I've been fortunate so far.
tek- I've seen those blankets on internal wg turbos. The edge just sort of spreads over the gate housing. I'd use the stainless version of safety wire to tie tight (lashing wire).
tek- I've seen those blankets on internal wg turbos. The edge just sort of spreads over the gate housing. I'd use the stainless version of safety wire to tie tight (lashing wire).
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02-20-2008, 02:09 PM
#23
!!! NOT CONFIRMED !!!
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That piece does more that you think - it's the top to the front end "box" that helps reduce twist on the chassis. I don't think you're car will fall apart, but consider that most add bracing to the car to improve it's handling, you're probably at a deficit now.
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03-02-2008, 10:34 PM
#24
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Found a turbo blanket that is made for smaller turbos and has a cut out for an internal wastegate!
http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category60_1.htm
pretty damn expensive though...
http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category60_1.htm
pretty damn expensive though...
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03-12-2008, 12:36 PM
#25
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Guess I'll throw in my 2 yen.
The Greddy manifold puts the turbo higher up and further back than most, so it's hard to work with in terms of building a shield that gives full coverage and yet clears the brake system, heater hoses, etc.
I'm now on Rev 3.5 of the heatshield- revs 1 and 2 cracked, Rev 3 was an experiment in overkill, but it worked so I've now finished it. It is a half-cube, which fully covers the top, and gives about 75% coverage of the back and outboard sides of the turbine. The part which bolts to the valve cover is a piece of 3/16" thick hot-rolled steel L-channel, the "main" piece (top and outboard side) is 16ga sheet steel, and the back piece which is cut to fit around the downpipe is 18ga sheet steel.
Additionally, this one is semi-modular. The riveted construction gives it some flex, and allows me to replace any part which cracks more easily then rebuilding the whole damn thing from scratch each time. In practice, loosening of the rivets themselves seems to be the most common failure point, which is actually nice because they're easy to replace.
A shot from the inside. It's not y8s' gold foil, but rather Thermo-Tec insulating mat which consists of fiberglass sandwiched between mylar and aluminum foil. A few pieces of aluminum riveted here and there hold the mat in place. After a normal drive, the outside of the shield is warm, but you can put your hand on it.
The cracking problem with Revs 1 and 2 was due to vibration, and the length and weight of the thing. Rev 3 incorporates a piece which is held to the turbo with one of the downpipe bolts and supports the outer end of the shield. Here's the support piece installed:
A shot of the installed heatshield, from the side. Note the two bolts on top, which hold the shield to the support piece. The extra metal bar under the bolts is basically a load-spreader made from 1/8" thick flat bar stock, as this is the point at which rev 2 failed:
Same shot, from the front. The finish on the outside is Dupli-Color "High Heat, with Ceramic" paint. Pretty much worthless on downpipes, but good for this sort of thing.
The Greddy manifold puts the turbo higher up and further back than most, so it's hard to work with in terms of building a shield that gives full coverage and yet clears the brake system, heater hoses, etc.
I'm now on Rev 3.5 of the heatshield- revs 1 and 2 cracked, Rev 3 was an experiment in overkill, but it worked so I've now finished it. It is a half-cube, which fully covers the top, and gives about 75% coverage of the back and outboard sides of the turbine. The part which bolts to the valve cover is a piece of 3/16" thick hot-rolled steel L-channel, the "main" piece (top and outboard side) is 16ga sheet steel, and the back piece which is cut to fit around the downpipe is 18ga sheet steel.
Additionally, this one is semi-modular. The riveted construction gives it some flex, and allows me to replace any part which cracks more easily then rebuilding the whole damn thing from scratch each time. In practice, loosening of the rivets themselves seems to be the most common failure point, which is actually nice because they're easy to replace.
A shot from the inside. It's not y8s' gold foil, but rather Thermo-Tec insulating mat which consists of fiberglass sandwiched between mylar and aluminum foil. A few pieces of aluminum riveted here and there hold the mat in place. After a normal drive, the outside of the shield is warm, but you can put your hand on it.
The cracking problem with Revs 1 and 2 was due to vibration, and the length and weight of the thing. Rev 3 incorporates a piece which is held to the turbo with one of the downpipe bolts and supports the outer end of the shield. Here's the support piece installed:
A shot of the installed heatshield, from the side. Note the two bolts on top, which hold the shield to the support piece. The extra metal bar under the bolts is basically a load-spreader made from 1/8" thick flat bar stock, as this is the point at which rev 2 failed:
Same shot, from the front. The finish on the outside is Dupli-Color "High Heat, with Ceramic" paint. Pretty much worthless on downpipes, but good for this sort of thing.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 03-12-2008 at 12:52 PM.
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The vertical brace coming off of the turbine housing will make a big difference for support.
03-12-2008, 08:23 PM
#30
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thats very very nice! i had the same plan, putting some heat reflecting material on the inside of a heat shield, but im too lazy and went with the FM heatshield and some adhesive heat reflecting material from thermotec...
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03-15-2008, 12:08 PM
#34
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An important lesson has been learned. The blanketing material that I used was Thermo-Tec's "Cool-It Mat", which Summit said was good for up to 2,000°. The directions for the product state that the mylar side is to be placed facing the heat source, and the aluminum side away. When the heat source in question happens to be a turbocharger, these directions are wrong. After just a few days' worth of casual driving, the mylar has melted and disintegrated in several places:
I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
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03-15-2008, 02:05 PM
#36
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bowser shield is from flyinmiata
http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...20560%20%20NDP
how do you hold the blanket in place after you make a cut?
http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...20560%20%20NDP
how do you hold the blanket in place after you make a cut?
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03-15-2008, 08:52 PM
#39
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An important lesson has been learned. The blanketing material that I used was Thermo-Tec's "Cool-It Mat", which Summit said was good for up to 2,000°. The directions for the product state that the mylar side is to be placed facing the heat source, and the aluminum side away. When the heat source in question happens to be a turbocharger, these directions are wrong. After just a few days' worth of casual driving, the mylar has melted and disintegrated in several places:
I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
I've re-done it with the foil side facing out, and we'll see how that fares. I probably should have used the "Aluminized Heat Barrier" instead, which is actually specified for use near manifolds. It's much more expensive however, $79 for 36" x 40", vs $28 for 24" x 48". The Cool-It Mat happened to be laying around from a previous project, and I thought I'd give it a shot. We need a "Fail" smiley...
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