Rebuilding a T3 Write-up
#1
Boost Czar
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Rebuilding a T3 Write-up
Rebuilding a T3 turbo
Tools needed:
Vice
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
3/8” star pattern socket
Pliers
Allen wrench set
Dentists Pics
Disessembled turbo
Compressor Housing
Backing Plate
Compressor Wheel
Dynamic Seal
Bearing Housing (CHRA)
Turbine Shield
Turbine & Shaft
Bearings are held in by 4 clips. One per side.
Remove the first clip and the bearing can fall out. (this is the hardest part of the rebuild)
Remove the bottom clip and repeat on the reverse side.
Reinstall the new clips and bearings. Remove and install the backing plate gasket.
Replace the thrust bearing. This is a 360* bearing, it's held down by three bolts.*The thrust spacer is installed behind it.
The clip around the turbine shaft is the rear seal.*This is what failed on mine.*
Replaced seal.
Reinstall the turbine shield, compressor seal (3 different types, I skipped documenting this step), and backing plate (4 10mm bolts).
Reinstall the turbine.
Put the turbine in a vice and reinstall the compressor wheel.
Use something with two handles so you apply equal force to the shaft.*Otherwise you might bend it.*I used a tapping handle with a socket drive for a screwdriver.
Remove and replace the compressor housing gasket.
Reinstall the turbine housing (6 13mm bolts), compressor housing (6 13mm bolts), and wastgate.*done!
Tools needed:
Vice
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
3/8” star pattern socket
Pliers
Allen wrench set
Dentists Pics
Disessembled turbo
Compressor Housing
Backing Plate
Compressor Wheel
Dynamic Seal
Bearing Housing (CHRA)
Turbine Shield
Turbine & Shaft
Bearings are held in by 4 clips. One per side.
Remove the first clip and the bearing can fall out. (this is the hardest part of the rebuild)
Remove the bottom clip and repeat on the reverse side.
Reinstall the new clips and bearings. Remove and install the backing plate gasket.
Replace the thrust bearing. This is a 360* bearing, it's held down by three bolts.*The thrust spacer is installed behind it.
The clip around the turbine shaft is the rear seal.*This is what failed on mine.*
Replaced seal.
Reinstall the turbine shield, compressor seal (3 different types, I skipped documenting this step), and backing plate (4 10mm bolts).
Reinstall the turbine.
Put the turbine in a vice and reinstall the compressor wheel.
Use something with two handles so you apply equal force to the shaft.*Otherwise you might bend it.*I used a tapping handle with a socket drive for a screwdriver.
Remove and replace the compressor housing gasket.
Reinstall the turbine housing (6 13mm bolts), compressor housing (6 13mm bolts), and wastgate.*done!
Last edited by Braineack; 11-27-2006 at 09:30 AM.
#9
Boost Czar
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The oil drain is a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" (-10AN) Slip on. The feed is a 90* 1/8" to 1/4" (-4AN), the restrictor is a (.060) 1/8" to 1/8" male to female.
Last edited by Braineack; 09-17-2006 at 10:23 PM.
#11
Boost Czar
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Shaft play is caused by the bearings wearing out over time. When a bearing is worn, shaft play, a side to side wiggling motion of the shaft occurs. So I would assume they don't
Last edited by Braineack; 09-18-2006 at 11:37 AM.
#12
Boost Czar
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Similar. However the T3 itself has different compressor seals which I didn't document for the same reason. I have a 360* thrust bearing which also changes the procedure (uses bolts to hold in down instead of a star ring spring). But basically: replace the bearings, replace the compressor and turbine seals, replace the gaskets
#16
Boost Czar
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Mission Sucessful. Everything reinstalled and cranked-up in 35mins. No more happy trails of blue smoke.
Holding strong at 10psi
Holding strong at 10psi
Last edited by Braineack; 09-18-2006 at 01:33 PM.
#18
FWIW I have switched comp wheels and housings and never had a problem both on the T3 (bought a T3 for ~60, rebuilt it for another ~50 and then bought a .60 wheel and housing for another ~50).
Last edited by Jefe; 09-18-2006 at 09:11 PM.