Tech help - 4000rpm stumble on accel
#1
Tech help - 4000rpm stumble on accel
Hey folks,
I have an acceleration problem that I need some help trying to solve.
Problem: when accelerating at full throttle the car stumbles badly between 4000-5000rpm and then accelerates fine up to redline.
If I accelerate hard up to 4000rpm, then back off but still accelerate slightly (50% throttle) I can get past 5000rpm and nail it again.
I mostly tracked the car last year so I just kept the rpms above 5k and would be good, but I am daily driving it now and trying to get it fixed plus it's not healthy to leave this uncorrected.
This happened after I swapped my engine last year. I had the same setup, just swapped a new 1.6 and the problem started.
I played around with the LINK settings, not much change. Re-loaded FM defaults and re-tuned slightly, no change.
Relevant notes on car:
-1.6 Turbo with piggyback Link (not full LINK)
-single injector at throttle body
-O2 signal modifier (olderguy)
-new O2 sensor installed recently
-just installed a bunch of ground wires in case it was bad grounding
-changed over the TPS, temp sensor and rad switch from old to new engine
Stumped...
Ideas:
- any other sensors I should check?
- re-wire the piggy?
- was suggested I adjust the O2 clamp settings?
I assume it has something to do with the piggyback ECU taking over from the OEM computer since the transition is around 4000rpm where the OEM ECU would go into open loop (or is that full).
Any ideas more than welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Andre
Ottawa, Ontario
I have an acceleration problem that I need some help trying to solve.
Problem: when accelerating at full throttle the car stumbles badly between 4000-5000rpm and then accelerates fine up to redline.
If I accelerate hard up to 4000rpm, then back off but still accelerate slightly (50% throttle) I can get past 5000rpm and nail it again.
I mostly tracked the car last year so I just kept the rpms above 5k and would be good, but I am daily driving it now and trying to get it fixed plus it's not healthy to leave this uncorrected.
This happened after I swapped my engine last year. I had the same setup, just swapped a new 1.6 and the problem started.
I played around with the LINK settings, not much change. Re-loaded FM defaults and re-tuned slightly, no change.
Relevant notes on car:
-1.6 Turbo with piggyback Link (not full LINK)
-single injector at throttle body
-O2 signal modifier (olderguy)
-new O2 sensor installed recently
-just installed a bunch of ground wires in case it was bad grounding
-changed over the TPS, temp sensor and rad switch from old to new engine
Stumped...
Ideas:
- any other sensors I should check?
- re-wire the piggy?
- was suggested I adjust the O2 clamp settings?
I assume it has something to do with the piggyback ECU taking over from the OEM computer since the transition is around 4000rpm where the OEM ECU would go into open loop (or is that full).
Any ideas more than welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Andre
Ottawa, Ontario
#7
I got the "olderguy" O2 clamp installed last year as I figured it could fix my problem but no. Perhaps it is out of adjustment?
From what I understand, this only regulates O2 sensor voltage up to 4000rpm, beyond that the ECU does not use this signal.
If my problem is at 4000-4500rpm, doesn't this rule out the O2 clamp?
From what I understand, this only regulates O2 sensor voltage up to 4000rpm, beyond that the ECU does not use this signal.
If my problem is at 4000-4500rpm, doesn't this rule out the O2 clamp?
#8
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are the secondair injectors working???
fuel and power????
The piggyback just adjust timing where you want it, and add fuel above 0 psi.
(that's why you don't have any readings in the lower zones)
I suggest a fuel problem....
fuel and power????
The piggyback just adjust timing where you want it, and add fuel above 0 psi.
(that's why you don't have any readings in the lower zones)
I suggest a fuel problem....
#13
Thanks for the responses everyone.
I think I will re-wire the Piggyback LINK in case there is a problem there. This also sounds like perhaps the 5th injector is not working or wiring is messed up, as my plugs and O2 sensor indicate the car is running lean while the LINK "settings" are not set lean at all.
I'm only running 3psi for now until I get it sorted out so no danger of hurting the engine, plus I'm not driving it hard until it gets solved.
Will re-wire and see what happens and get it on the dyno/wideband and check it out further. (and check out the O2 clamp settings too)
Thanks again,
Andre
Ottawa, ON
I think I will re-wire the Piggyback LINK in case there is a problem there. This also sounds like perhaps the 5th injector is not working or wiring is messed up, as my plugs and O2 sensor indicate the car is running lean while the LINK "settings" are not set lean at all.
I'm only running 3psi for now until I get it sorted out so no danger of hurting the engine, plus I'm not driving it hard until it gets solved.
Will re-wire and see what happens and get it on the dyno/wideband and check it out further. (and check out the O2 clamp settings too)
Thanks again,
Andre
Ottawa, ON
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