Thoughts on this cheap cast mani?
#63
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Making 500whp for 2 weeks and a few drag passes does not exactly say how long term reliability will be. The 1.6 tacotaco has been shown to crack after sometime on a real track. So I expect the 1.8 will possibly crack when also driven hard after some time. Now saying that, I still think they will be ok for 250whp on the street for a good long time. And honestly at $80 if it does crack you just buy a new one.
#64
Well there is no way to guarantee long term durability on ANY new part. It takes time.
That said, so far this manifold works fine, and I'm probably pushing it harder than anyone else is currently. And as mentioned, if it only last a year or two, I'll buy another and keep going at this price. My car gets drag raced and street driven, so since I don't do long track sessions it will likely be fine for years on my car.
That said, so far this manifold works fine, and I'm probably pushing it harder than anyone else is currently. And as mentioned, if it only last a year or two, I'll buy another and keep going at this price. My car gets drag raced and street driven, so since I don't do long track sessions it will likely be fine for years on my car.
#68
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Well there is no way to guarantee long term durability on ANY new part. It takes time.
That said, so far this manifold works fine, and I'm probably pushing it harder than anyone else is currently. And as mentioned, if it only last a year or two, I'll buy another and keep going at this price. My car gets drag raced and street driven, so since I don't do long track sessions it will likely be fine for years on my car.
That said, so far this manifold works fine, and I'm probably pushing it harder than anyone else is currently. And as mentioned, if it only last a year or two, I'll buy another and keep going at this price. My car gets drag raced and street driven, so since I don't do long track sessions it will likely be fine for years on my car.
#71
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Yeah, on and off. Pat doesn't wait around. What I mean is that it isn't always available. 1.6 was down for at least 6 months last time. I didn't mean it was going to disappear forever.
#73
Looks like these are currently only available with T3 flange. Without any idea if/when they will put out the t2 version again would there be a way to convert this from t3 to t2 that isn't destined for failure?
Sounds like the exhaust outlet size may be the same between the T2 and T3 versions based on shuiend's post? I know Ive seen some people locktight studs into the holes, then hacksaw them flush, then tap new holes in the proper flange layout. Also have seen people weld a T2 flange over the existing flange. I have no idea if these are viable options or just an option when you are in a pinch. Would also be concerned about possible complications if the exhaust outlets are different sizes. I wouldn't want to create a situation that results in turbulent airflow.
Sounds like the exhaust outlet size may be the same between the T2 and T3 versions based on shuiend's post? I know Ive seen some people locktight studs into the holes, then hacksaw them flush, then tap new holes in the proper flange layout. Also have seen people weld a T2 flange over the existing flange. I have no idea if these are viable options or just an option when you are in a pinch. Would also be concerned about possible complications if the exhaust outlets are different sizes. I wouldn't want to create a situation that results in turbulent airflow.
#74
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Looks like these are currently only available with T3 flange. Without any idea if/when they will put out the t2 version again would there be a way to convert this from t3 to t2 that isn't destined for failure?
Sounds like the exhaust outlet size may be the same between the T2 and T3 versions based on shuiend's post? I know Ive seen some people locktight studs into the holes, then hacksaw them flush, then tap new holes in the proper flange layout. Also have seen people weld a T2 flange over the existing flange. I have no idea if these are viable options or just an option when you are in a pinch. Would also be concerned about possible complications if the exhaust outlets are different sizes. I wouldn't want to create a situation that results in turbulent airflow.
Sounds like the exhaust outlet size may be the same between the T2 and T3 versions based on shuiend's post? I know Ive seen some people locktight studs into the holes, then hacksaw them flush, then tap new holes in the proper flange layout. Also have seen people weld a T2 flange over the existing flange. I have no idea if these are viable options or just an option when you are in a pinch. Would also be concerned about possible complications if the exhaust outlets are different sizes. I wouldn't want to create a situation that results in turbulent airflow.
The real solution would just to be buy the t3 manifold, and the t3 turbo I use, then cut your rear shelf some and build a downpipe.
#79
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Top part of the downpipe bolts on fine, the bottom section looked like it lined up good with the exhaust, I did not really bolt everything together though as I was lazy. You may need to trim your shelf near the shock like all other FM/Begi manifolds.