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They also don't usually ship drilled and tapped for t2 flange when you order them for the t2. I have heard countless people over the last year order the t2 and get the t3 and told to pound sand.
This vendor specifically asked me per PM what size, T2 or T3. So I have good hope. We'll see...
What length stud is required? It will take a few weeks for the thing to ship over here, I would like to find the right ones and order now so they arrive together.
They also don't usually ship drilled and tapped for t2 flange when you order them for the t2. I have heard countless people over the last year order the t2 and get the t3 and told to pound sand.
I've ordered one a year or so ago, maybe a little more. Back then they were $80 shipped on Ebay. And indeed received a T25 one. Not t3. Now days I did hear a few people ordering t25 and getting t3. That's on Ebay though. Direct from China you might get the correct t25.
Well, the mani arrived this weekend and it does fit the GT2554r I have. It was packaged very badly as Chine stuff should, so the gaskets are a bit mangled but I'll staighten it out. The only thing I miss is the gasget between the manifold and the by-pass block off plate. That will need to be sourced as my turbo has an internal waste gate and I don't want the block off to leak.It also comes with the hiddious heat shield, I'm not sure I would like to use that.
Just wanted to drop in an update to this thread about my experience with this manifold. So far it's held up great. I took my grinder with a cutting wheel to the outside corners so I could re-use my factory studs which makes me more comfortable I'm not risking stripping bolts in my block. Build quality seems great for how damn cheap it is. A little rough around some edges but nothing that can't be fixed with a grinder. When I ordered mine the one with the heat-shield and wastegate block-off plate/ hardware wasn't available so I had to order some of that separately. The block-off plate is just for a standard Tial 35mm/38mm and you can either get the plate alone for like $8 and supply your own bolts like I did (bolt threads are same as the turbo hardware), or with the bolts and a gasket (I didn't/ wouldn't use a gasket) for like $14. I wouldn't have been able to use the heat-shield with my setup and the exhaust gasket is more than likely junk anyway (I just re-used my factory gasket and it's holding up fine), so it's really just missing the block-off plate and hardware that holds it on. I actually made my wastegate bracket from scrap and bolted it to the manifold itself where the provided heatshield would have gone. It was a very convenient and easy spot to use that wouldn't have been usable on most other manifolds. As of 9/14/2018 both versions are available on ebay with and without the other hardware. Since the sellers change seemingly monthly just search "Miata T25 cast manifold" and look for the same design as these pictures. The mani by itself is $128 with free shipping (to Dallas TX) and the one with the other hardware is $130 with $58 shipping. It made more sense to buy the manifold on it's own for my setup, but your mileage may vary.
This is the one sold without hardware The one with the extra hardware My setup with the SR20 T25 turbo and taco taco manifold
How is the aluminum foil holding up? That's my plan until I build a good heat sheild.
The foil? It-Just-Werks™ The car? Well, make sure your couplers aren't held in place with friction alone. Can't have as many heat problems if your turbo isn't working!
Thanks for the update, ungluedflyer. I don't quite agree with the heat management (I would be scared to fit the boost control valve thingy like that), but it's good to know the mani works.
I am fitting mine at the moment. I bought four M10x1,25 studs, 70mm long. They come from the motor mounting of the classic FIAT 500, in case you are looking for some. They need to be shortened on the short end:
And then it fits:
I did notice the studs are a bit long on the other end. If you don't have long sockets on your torque wrench, you need to shorten the studs on the other end, too:
I also noticed the casting is not flat at the point where the nut should sit. Best thing would be to machine it flat on a mill, some might try it with an angle grinder, I will take an old fashioned hadn file and create a nice flat spot for the nut to sit. I saw this on several points, you really need to check and correct this when you want to properly fit this.
Mine didn't come with the relieve cuts, like for instance the tacotaco one shown on page one of this thread. Should I make those?
Cheers,
Hugo
Ultimately your choice, however given the fact things expand and contract under heat it makes sense to me why they're there. A lot of the guys I've seen who make manifolds from scratch do it, that's reason enough for me.
08-23-2018, 08:53 AM
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