psiturbo

iTrader: (1)

Here is another wonderful thread free of charge:

How to make and install a Det Can




And another one from a thread but with mec stethoscope, post #31:

danz's 90 civic cx built for 11s - Page 2 - D-series.org

johnmatt

iTrader: (8)

I might actually try that haha

popopopop

Any other place to mount this other than the engine mount brackets?

JasonC SBB

Why is this better than an electronic one with a mic and in-ear noise blocking 'phones?

Jeff_Ciesielski

iTrader: (10)

Up front: I'm obviously biased .

Having said that, I think there are pros and cons to both. The ol' stethoscope into ear-protectors are rugged, simple, and they work. On the flip side, there is no volume control, they're bulky, and look a little ghetto. Electronic cans solve the bulk and volume control however like all electronic gizmos, components can wear and eventually fail. Pick your poison.

dustinb

The Gizzmo K-Mon is the shiz. I'm saving up for one
Gizzmo electronics Pty Ltd, specialists in performance ecu upgrades/chips, dyno tuning, performance products including launch controllers, shiftlamps, vtec controllers, boost controllers, IBC, MSIBC, CAMFC, phenolic gaskets, apexi, apex, aftermarket

sasquatch

iTrader: (2)

i built one for my car and let me tell you, they work awesome!!! you can hear EVERYTHING after i shut off my motor i can hear the water settling down in block for a second or two...

popopopop

^Where did you mount it?

psiturbo

iTrader: (1)

This is the one I ended up making which took around an hour with my Radio Shack electronic skills, lol.

$12 for amplifier (suggest EBAY)

$8 on clamps, bought a pair just in case a messed up the welds (Home Depot or Harbor Freight)

$7 to $10 on headphone cables (Radio Shack or sometimes Dollar Tree)




Explanation of engine knock and detection tools:
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DIY Engine knocking detection tool
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The cool thing about the electronic amplifier is it can be relocated to hear the transmission, cylinder head, crank, bov, compressor, etc. because it uses a clamp compared to bolting it to one specific location.

Note: One difference with my setup is I used a headphone cable leaving the plug side available. The clamp can be left on the engine bay and whenever I want to hear noises its just reaching to the glove compartment and plug the headphone amplifier. There is barely any static at all, sounds are crisp clear. Only problem is when it is clamped near the fan so try to use an area distant from the airflow.

I tested it on the beater stock Escort GT (1.8 dohc) and I could hear very clear engine knock at 2,000 to 3,000 rpms which I never ever detected using a 8" extension placed straight on the engine block.

It is cool because I can hear the shifting, when the clutch engages, the turbo spool up, bov activate, the sound of the valves opening and closing, ticking of injectors. At work my friends look at me as been crazy, lol, although they found very interesting how everything can be heard over the headphones.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

You've driven down the street while holding an 8" extension between your ear and the block? I'd like to see that...

psiturbo

iTrader: (1)

Edited

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Uhm . . .

Well unless you're doing it on a dyno, the only way you can listen to your engine with a socket extension is without a load on it..


On second thought.. Nevermind.

Thanks for the writeup links about the detonation amp though.

JasonC SBB

In-ear 'phones keep out ambient noise.
Hi quality in ear phones let you hear clearly.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I'm not sure how it was set up, but I've tried a set of those and I wasn't at all impressed. By the time they were turned up loud enough to hear detonation, all you got was a constant whine of engine noise, and it was too loud to pick out any off-rhythm beats.

I have a mechanical set similar to the ones in the OP, and they are foolproof. Nice, rhythmic, quiet buzz, and then a very distinct off-beat tapping when it starts to ping.

sasquatch

iTrader: (2)

to the block... lol... i used one of the holes under the intake manifold down close to the oil pan... if you put it to far back on the block you will get alot of trans noise :(