Hi I wanted to know if anyone knew where to find the post or any info on this. I have looked every where for the passed 3 days and still no luck. =[ So if someone could point me in the directions of the post that would be awesome.

You are running all that hardware and you still have a stock ecu? WTF are you doing?

Search = Overclocking OEM ECU threads - MX-5 Miata Forum



+1.

Wait I think I see what you want to do now. You have the FIC running parallel and want to raise your rev limiter. Unless you have billet OP gears I wouldn't recommend pushing it. The turbo you have alone has enough headroom to potentially murder your "HV" OP.

This is an ancient memory, but I think I remember hearing its a farily sketchy modification, beyond the obvious. One small static charge and the whole ECU is toast, and thought different ECU's produced different new rev limits with the same crystal. As in put crystal A in ECU A, and it makes 7500rpm, crystal A in ECU B and it does 7700rpm.

All this could be complete BS to help persuade you to get a real computer though, who knows.

Yes I am running the FIC paralle and I have the oil pump gears from boundary engineering. I also have dual supertech valve springs so I don't think shooting shims will be a problem.

Shooting shims wasn't something I was thinking, it wasn't mentioned in your mods in your sig. Now that I know you have the springs and the OP gears then you are part of the way there. I see you don't know your HP and TQ. I can tell you right now based on your sig that your power is falling off by redline and raising that redline will not net you anything addtional. Also, if you spin more than 1k more than redline then spitting shims is a very real worry you should be having. If you want to play the high rpm game you need to look into a shim under bucket conversion, and new high lift long duration cams.

Then again, you don't list any head mods at all so I odn't know what you currently have. I think the crystal mod should be put on the back burner and you need to realistically look at if you will even make power in a higher rpm.

If you realistically want to take this road you are looking at another 1-2k in engine mods, based on what we already know you have and don't have.

I hear what your saying and from what I red on M.NET im not going to do it. I was hoping to get a 7500 redline but ill wait till I got money for standalone. I had the car dyno'd with my old FM1 set up made 225whp all the way to redline. Im hoping to have some time to dyno the car next week so if i do ill post that up.

Its not WHP you need to look at, its your tq curve. If it starts to fall off at all its not going to magically make more by reving more.

Wait what? Newbs are supposed to not listen to what we say and blow their cars up. WTF is this listening ****. Kudos.

Also, the FIC isn't a bad unit from what I've read. What is it about your setup currently that you are not satisfied with that prompted you to look at raising the revs for power?

An excellent point is raised here.

Chasing the redline is an activity that I tend to associate with the IRTB crowd. Once breathing has been optimized, there's really no other way for those guys to make more torque, so they're stuck raising the revs to eke out an extra few HP.

The turbocharger is a game-changer though. You have a much easier tool to make power with, namely the boost controller. It's far simpler to just turn up the manifold pressure a tad than to fiddle about trying to extend the RPM range, and the dynamic load on the rods will be less.

Honestly, unless you're within .1 sec of a certain lap record and the only thing stopping you is that you keep hitting the rev limiter in a spot where upshifting would cost time, I just don't see the point here.

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I'm currently using a 4.43mhz crystal in my 00', mostly for the advantage of not having to shift to third on higher speed corners or decent sweepers at autox. Changes the limiter from around 7200 to about 8000, giving about a 5mph gain on the top of second and saving the time of an entire shift.

There is talk about the different crystal leaning the mixture out, which is supposedly good for the stock rich as hell map, but I can't comment as I don't run a wideband. I can say that there seems to be a bit more power up top and it pulls smoothly through all the way to 8000. I don't use it often though, I usually shift at 7k.

For me it was mostly a rainy Saturday kind of thing, took me 15 minutes and was really simple. Neat to see that it works, but I'll be going back to a stock 4.0 mhz when I go XEDE and turbo. Won't need the revs and I don't know how the XEDE will play with a different speed ECU.

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-Zack
2000 LS, ~200whp, 15x9 6UL's, R888's, Bar, etc

i'm just going to make this comment so it's here for the next crystal question:

if you are looking to raise the rev limit, you should already have a standalone ECU that can do it natively. otherwise you are wasting your time.

like getting grandma a nice tan.

The FIC setup is great I love the way my car pulls I just don't like how short the gears are. I have been thinking of doing a 3.6 ring and pin but I am going to wait till i find a six speed for cheap.
Yes I know hard to believe but there are some people that do listen to what other people say.


Also I should add I have a custom mani for my turbo its a begi s style one.

keep in mind that overclocking will also trim your fuel. 10% higher mghz crystal = 10% less fuel and 10% higher rev limit.

case and point.

Those all look roughly identical and within a reasonable +- error.

The (3) AFRs plots with the ECU Crystal mod are the lean ones; look at the legend.

All the lines are so thin I can barely distinguish the colors.