Need tuning help. Burns major fuel
#1
Need tuning help. Burns major fuel
I have a 1990 1.6L Miata, turbocharged with a DIY kit. I would say the turbo is a 20-30 trim, and Im running 7psi, AEM wideband, pro sport boost gauge. Now the problem I am running into is the fact that the car gets terrible gas mileage. The device its using for fuel management is a MF2 mappable injector driver, which uses 2 injectors right before the throttle body, and Im not sure how to tune it exactly. So if anyone has any advice it would be helpful
#4
o2 clamp is used when you transition into boost under closed loop the stock ecu doesn't try to pull fuel and go lean.
Do you have any of the DSM parts, ecus, etc, I know some of the miata guys here are running their miatas on dsm ecu's because abit of the miata stuff is the same as the dsm stuff, CAS is, etc.
I figure there is probably software to tune the injector driver that you have, map vs rpm?
it will probably have a map that you use to add more fuel, no idea if it has some pre set maps, but just tweak the fuel it adds until you find the right afrs you want under boost.
Main problem I see with this is you don't know you are providing even fueling to all cylinders with just one wideband under load.
Do you have any of the DSM parts, ecus, etc, I know some of the miata guys here are running their miatas on dsm ecu's because abit of the miata stuff is the same as the dsm stuff, CAS is, etc.
I figure there is probably software to tune the injector driver that you have, map vs rpm?
it will probably have a map that you use to add more fuel, no idea if it has some pre set maps, but just tweak the fuel it adds until you find the right afrs you want under boost.
Main problem I see with this is you don't know you are providing even fueling to all cylinders with just one wideband under load.
#5
http://www.kcsaab.com/aquamist/websi...f2/mf2tec.html
Its probably flooding you with fuel even when your not in boost, that is, if it is rpm-based as of now. Check if your map sensor is proberly connected to the MF2.
o2 clamp could probably help with tip in, but that doesnt seem to be your problem. An o2-clamp is a little circuit with a boost sensor that feeds the ecu an AFR 14.7 signal when in boost, so that the oem ecu doesnt interfer with the extra fuelling.
Its probably flooding you with fuel even when your not in boost, that is, if it is rpm-based as of now. Check if your map sensor is proberly connected to the MF2.
o2 clamp could probably help with tip in, but that doesnt seem to be your problem. An o2-clamp is a little circuit with a boost sensor that feeds the ecu an AFR 14.7 signal when in boost, so that the oem ecu doesnt interfer with the extra fuelling.
#6
No, I do not have any DSM parts sadly, but around here a DSM ecu would not be hard to attain.
And you turn a dial for every rpm (1000 increments) either to increase the fuel or lean it out a bit. But I feel that is it using too much fuel because I can go through half a tank in a day driving to town (which is 7 miles away) maybe 3 time, and back to my house.
And when ever I am under a load the afrs is usually between solid 10-11.4, cruising it usually goes anywhere between 10-14.4.
And you turn a dial for every rpm (1000 increments) either to increase the fuel or lean it out a bit. But I feel that is it using too much fuel because I can go through half a tank in a day driving to town (which is 7 miles away) maybe 3 time, and back to my house.
And when ever I am under a load the afrs is usually between solid 10-11.4, cruising it usually goes anywhere between 10-14.4.
#10
And yes, I do think 10 is really rich, that is why Im trying to see if anyone has any suggestions as to what I should do, also car idling wideband says its running at 17.1 but I can see little black specs of unburned fuel on the ground from my exhaust.
#12
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
here's what i would do if i were you.
1. remove the two extra injectors and your stupid fuel controller that you dont know nor care to know how to use.
2. get an fmu.
3. figure out exactly what turbo i actually have.
4. replace the pro sport boost gauge with an amatuer sport boost gauge.
5. learn how to tune.
1. remove the two extra injectors and your stupid fuel controller that you dont know nor care to know how to use.
2. get an fmu.
3. figure out exactly what turbo i actually have.
4. replace the pro sport boost gauge with an amatuer sport boost gauge.
5. learn how to tune.
#13
here's what i would do if i were you.
1. remove the two extra injectors and your stupid fuel controller that you dont know nor care to know how to use.
2. get an fmu.
3. figure out exactly what turbo i actually have.
4. replace the pro sport boost gauge with an amatuer sport boost gauge.
5. learn how to tune.
1. remove the two extra injectors and your stupid fuel controller that you dont know nor care to know how to use.
2. get an fmu.
3. figure out exactly what turbo i actually have.
4. replace the pro sport boost gauge with an amatuer sport boost gauge.
5. learn how to tune.
Sorry I was asking for assistance. Thought that thats what forums were for, attaining help and information.
#14
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
its just such a shitty fueling device, it's obviously not working correctly and dumping in fuel all the time.
for 7-8psi you need nothing more than 265cc injectors and a FMU to raise the fuel pressure.
for 7-8psi you need nothing more than 265cc injectors and a FMU to raise the fuel pressure.