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Speeduino idle control valve settings? 2004 1.8 VVT

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Old 11-24-2020, 02:43 AM
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Default Speeduino idle control valve settings? 2004 1.8 VVT

Hi,

I have the Speeduino running on my 2004 VVT engine but I cannot get it to idle properly. Can someone who has a proper idle control going on such an enginer share the settings? Is there anything I can measure / check with a multimeter? I have TunerStudio of course, but I cannot find a gauge displaying the PWM level it is sending to the valve. So I don't know if it actually is doing anything or that the fault is after the Speeduino, in the wiring or the valve.

All help is appreciated,
Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 11-24-2020, 07:33 AM
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Tune and log please
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Old 11-24-2020, 12:33 PM
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Hallo der Vierte,

I have no log, yet. I drove the car for 15 minutes on the base tune which I enriched 20% overall, and then I noticed the head gasket is blown. So yesterday the car was put back in the workshop and I'll swap the headgasket tonight (and tomorrow night, probably). I have this tune, at least I think this is what you request (I'm a noob when it comes to DIY EFY, despite the fact that I built a MS version zero 15 years ago).

I just checked, I have +12V on one of the two wires of the valve connector, the other gives nothing. No hum from the valve but the engine wasn't running, I only switched the car on.

BTW, the project is called turbo but it's not turbo, yet. I swapped from a 1.6 to a 1.8 VVT with Speeduino first, I'll fit the turbo once I have this setup sorted.

Cheers,

Hugo
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CurrentTune.msq (60.8 KB, 62 views)

Last edited by HugoW; 11-24-2020 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:49 PM
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Good evening Hugo, your tune is such a mess, I try to help out as best as I can, okay? I'm former Speeduino and now MS3 user.

But first there are some questions:
What year is your car? What is your injector layout? Are you sequential (1.6 90hp or 1.8) or paired (90-93 1.6)? Do you use the NB throttle body (you should do that, especially when going turbo, because of the lack of extra hose to the piping/valve and you have a VTPS in those)

Is your wiring loom totally stock? Do you have a wideband? Do you have a timing light?

After that, I think I can get you up and running.

Which city are you from?
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:37 PM
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Hi, I'm from Sint-Oedenrode, close to Eindhoven.

Thanks, I''m sure it's a mess but I did get to drive the car, so it's not all bad.

Here we go:
The car is a 1998 1.6 NB
The Engine is a 2004 1.8 VVT including everything, with only three changes. I put in 450 cc injectors (the yellow RX8 ones), fitted a Mazda 323 36-1 wheel and I put a BMW AIT sensor in the intake manifold, as I ditched everything in front of the throttle valve. The VVT standard ignition with the double COP ignitors are in place and fuctioning. I don't run sequential, as the ignition is wasted spark anyway. All sensors and actuators on the engine and intake are there, wired up and all I can check is functioning. I made a PCB between the Speeduino 0.4.4. and the engine's connector:


My Speeduino board came with 24k9 bias resistors instead of 2k49, so I had weird readings. I changed the bias resistors to 1k each, so the voltage over the sensor is a nice wide spread bewteen 4 and 0,5V for the Arduino to read. The readings are logical, now. I have a wideband installed and functioning, the LED indicator tells me the sensor is functioning well and the readings make sense (as in: I lean out the mixture in the tune and the value on the gauge in Tuner Studio shows it doing that). The fuel pump, cooling fan, tacho all work, I think the clutch sensor should as well but I haven't found a way to check that. The VVT solenoid and the idle control solenoid are higher on my list of getting them working, especially idle.

The injector lay-out is set to Semi-Sequential in Tuner tudio, I don't know why. I do know I cannot go full sequential as my cam sensor is broken so the ECU has no way of knowing on which stroke it is. I have a new sensor on the shelf to fit once I have the engine back together after the head gasket change, but I see no immidiate benefit in going sequential (my bad, maybe).

All input is welcome,
Cheers,

Hugo

Last edited by HugoW; 11-25-2020 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 11-25-2020, 07:22 AM
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That's some good info, seems like you've done your homework and know what you are doing hardware wise.

There are some big changes that need to be done to your tune, to get a good base line. Otherwise you're going to chase your tail.
I'm at work now, but I'll modify your msq to hopefully get you starting/idling okay after that.

When you are ready to start the car again, we can go further.

Running fully sequential injection, like your car was designed in the first place, doesn't have any downside to it, so we should use that. You can idle smoother/leaner, less wasted fuel in cruise, it's just better all around and you are wired up for that.
One question though, are your RX8 injectors real Densos? No cheap ebay special or unknown ****? There are a lot of fake ones out there with questionable flow rates/matching

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Old 11-25-2020, 07:56 AM
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Great, I really appreciate the help. Please let me know what you change, so I can learn. Or let me change it, teach me.

The RX8 (you are right, I changed my post) injectors come from a reputable German breaker who sold them second hand as Densos. I cannot prove they are genuine but I bought from him before and since, always been good. So I hope they are OK. While driving, the temp readings were still a bit off as it was before I found the wrong bias resistors. I did get the engine up to temperature (dash gauge) and during AutoTune it started to lean out everything considerably, as it ran way too rich. At idle I did that manually, changing the cells in steps of 5, big steps, untill I could get it to idle (with the throttle pedal slightly pressed) at around 800 rpm when hot. When I let go of the throttle pedal, it went back to a nervous 700 and then stalled.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 11-25-2020, 08:31 AM
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That's because your idle PWM is 0 when your engine is warmed up, I remember that from looking at it yesterday. Tunerstudio will give you a difference report, when you open my modified tune, but I try to explain what we're doing
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:24 PM
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Couldn't make it today :(

Will post tomorrow!
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Old 11-26-2020, 01:28 AM
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Keine Eile:



Hugo
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:01 PM
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I know I'm late, but here it is.

I changed a lot of stuff.

- Imported Spark table, that isn't single digit timing in high NA load/rpm, that was somewhat dangerous. This is a boosted timing table up to 240kpa, you can leave
that alone for now. I retarded the timing to a safe level for a higher compression engine, but I would fill in 100 octane just for insurance.
- Imported proper AFR-Table also up to 240kpa
- Set reqfuel to your injectors, set dead time to 0.85 (good known value for the rx8's)
- Smoothed out VE-Table - this is a little bit of guesswork, but I tried to hold on to your idle ve settings and set a fixed value for 500-1200 rpm in hopes to keep the idle stable
- Changed cranking settings to more reasonable values. Changed open loop idle pwm, this is also a little bit guesswork, but it should keep your car running for now, maybe a little bit high
- Changed IAT density correction, that was way off
- Changed map sampling method under engine constants from "cycle average" to "instantaneous", otherwise AE was pretty much untunable for me and others
- Lowered cranking rpm, longer fuel pump prime, adjusted priming pulse
- Set some rough values for ASE and IACV cranking duty

There is nothing I changed, that can blow your engine up, more like base line settings, cranking/idle settings to keep your car running for now. Adjust the VE table to target by hand.
DO NOT autotune idle, low load/rpm, it does stupid things there, leans it out too much. Set custom filter to like >30kpa and lock your tuned idle ve cells.

I hope this helps, every car needs fine tuning and your VE table is something you have to do yourself with autotune, manual cell changes and so on.
If your car doesn't start, I made a wrong setting, but it's super late....
Attached Files
File Type: msq
hugo modified.msq (60.8 KB, 101 views)
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Old 11-27-2020, 01:54 AM
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Thanks for all the work. I have downloaded it and loaded it into Tuner Studio, my engine is slowly coming together. I hope to try it this weekend.

Hugo
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:07 PM
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Well, the car starts with a lot of effort and I drove around for 10 minutes. The good news is the head gasket seems well, I don't have white smoke anymore. This makes me happy, as the seller of the engine told me it gave white smoke but they had changed the head gasket. I think they didn't clean the surfaces properly and the problem therefore persisted, and then they sold the motor. I was afraid there was a crack in the head somewhere if they indeed had properly swapped the gasket, but obviously they didn't. Either not properly or not at all. Engine done. Leaky diff and faulty indicators to go...

Unfortunetaly, the drive was not better then my previous tune, it was actually hesitating / missfiring under accelleration which it didn't do before. Also I still have no idle, nor when cold nor when on operating temp. The temp is rock steady at 90 degrees C, BTW, so my temp measuring problems are solved, too. Although I now find that the IAT sensor does not sample the passing air, but takes on the temp of the intake manifold. So that needs to be relocated. I measures the wiring from the ICV to the ECU, the valve gets 12V as it should. The other wire goes from the connector to pin 2Q on the ECU connector, to pin 37 of the Speeduino as it should. So that part is OK. Now I am looking for the settings, where do I tell Speeduino which pin is idle control. And should I enable it somewhere.

Is there a gauge in Tuner Studio on what PWM percentage the system thinks it is sending? Then I can check whether Speeduino is actually doing something, narrowing down the issue further. I hope to get some driving done this weekend (should fix the indicators) and make a log.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 11-28-2020, 02:46 AM
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Morning,

great to hear your engine is fine again!

First of all: You should data log EVERY single startup from now on. Helps big time! Like really start the log before you even turn the key to the running position.
Second: Just throw your IAT sensor in the air filter box No more heat soaking. If your intake manifold is heating up to like 60° after shutdown, you are hitting things like timinig retard, which I set for safety and generally gives you a nice headache.
Third: Activate sequential injection in engine constants. I forgot that. You can enable hardware test mode with the car OFF and listen for clicks on every injector to check, very useful!

If you want to know the exact idle valve duty, you can just set a custom gauge in tunerstudio with a right click in the main dash, where all the gauges are.
Go to "main" and there is "IAC Value".
IMHO Tunerstudio is already sending the values we set under "Idle pwm duty cycle", the question is: Does your valve respond to it? Speeduino sadly has no IACV test mode, but if you move the blue dots in the "idle pwm dc" box, the idle should change at some point. If this isn't the case, you have some kind of hardware problem.

My speeduino is/was a PNP unit btw, so ecu-hardware specific questions are not for me, haha. I can read wiring diagrams and wire my car up to the right pins, but that's it. I was happy to have a functional and tested unit.

Few questions though:
After you got it to start, could you quickly autotune some low load cruising cells to at least drive your car safely? The VE table has biiig jumps in it, it's absolutely normal that it's hesitating, hitting stupid rich/lean AFRs, especially in higher loads. You should set the autotune resistance to "very easy" at first and drive suuuper smoothly and make veeery slow changes to the throttle.
Like if you are a driving on ice with a 50k € car without insurance and you're on summer tires . It needs time to adjust the cells, try to stay in/around these. You can also try to hit low rpm/high load cells with careful usage of your brakes - I know there are no mountains .
If your car is up to operating temp and your "gamma enrichment" gauge says something around 100%, your only problem can be fueling, so there is a lot of work to do.

If you like, we can do a little remote session this weekend, just write a PM
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Old 11-28-2020, 05:33 AM
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I have opened a new topic on the idle control valve:
https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopi...cf7c06a9f147d6
It seems as if my Speeduino / Tuner Studio is not aware there is an output for the valve.

I enabled test mode and set the injection to sequential (and updated to firmware 2020.08), I will put the ECU back in the car this afternoon and go for a logged drive.

Hugo
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