1997 Motor rebuilt now NO START! (Have used search)
#41
So I bought the spark tester and had a chance to test to see if there was spark. Nothing. Tried all 4 cylinders and got jack squat.
I rechecked the timing to be sure it was still set correctly and it is.
I am thinking maybe the cam angle sensor might have gone out? I may try getting one and throwing it in for ***** just to see if that is the issue.
I really do not know where to go from here. I have re checked fuses and relays, rechecked resistance and voltage on sensors and ignition system components. Any further advice is greatly appreciated.
I rechecked the timing to be sure it was still set correctly and it is.
I am thinking maybe the cam angle sensor might have gone out? I may try getting one and throwing it in for ***** just to see if that is the issue.
I really do not know where to go from here. I have re checked fuses and relays, rechecked resistance and voltage on sensors and ignition system components. Any further advice is greatly appreciated.
#43
Well it only took a month to get you to check what was the easiest to check all along. I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier when it comes to checking out this stuff with multi meters and other test equip.. If you have a spare CAS I would try it first. After that I wouldn't know what to do. Atleast now you know what you don't have.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
#44
Well it only took a month to get you to check what was the easiest to check all along. I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier when it comes to checking out this stuff with multi meters and other test equip.. If you have a spare CAS I would try it first. After that I wouldn't know what to do. Atleast now you know what you don't have.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
Also did you reset your cams one tooth and put some more tension on the belt, it looked loose. Loosen your tensioner and use a long screw driver or bar and put a little extra tension on the belt above what the spring alone does. I think with like 20# of pressure in the middle of the belt with a straight edge laying across it you are supposed to have around 3/8" slack. It ain't brain surgery, just be around those figures.
I figured that if the timing light was not triggered on any plug wire while cranking the motor then the spark test would yield the same results. It did.
I will reset the tension per your advice. Thanks for the tip.
I was but I don't want to throw 100+ dollars at a guess before trying other solutions that are free. Now that I have ruled many possibilities out, it is time to go for the CAS.
#46
I would also change the oil after you get this to start for as much cranking as you have been doing with unseated rings and smelling fuel in the oil. You are breaking it in with non detergent oil right?, and if you installed new cams you need to use break in oil for the zinc content, if not just buy some cheap 30w non detergent oil and run for atleast 500 miles.
#47
I would also change the oil after you get this to start for as much cranking as you have been doing with unseated rings and smelling fuel in the oil. You are breaking it in with non detergent oil right?, and if you installed new cams you need to use break in oil for the zinc content, if not just buy some cheap 30w non detergent oil and run for atleast 500 miles.
I am poor
#49
It might run with the timing off, but you might as well time it right before getting it running. You're certainly not doing your freshly built motor any favors by trying to get it running with your cams obviously out of time.
#56
i cant help but wonder when i see the pictures, is the tensioner making the timing belt tight? the pictures only show a belt thats about as loose as a motor with no tension on the belt at all.
the other thing we should know is did you do any wiring projects while the car was apart. i had a car not run when the owner installed his racepak improperly.
with the CAS removed and plugged in and the coils both disconnected with the key on, do you hear the injectors click one at a time when you rotate the CAS?
the other thing we should know is did you do any wiring projects while the car was apart. i had a car not run when the owner installed his racepak improperly.
with the CAS removed and plugged in and the coils both disconnected with the key on, do you hear the injectors click one at a time when you rotate the CAS?
#58
cas->ecu->coils. we dont know if trigger is coming from ecu to fire the coils. so by seeing if they trigger the injectors we will know if the ecu is interpreting the data and firing its outputs. just trying to narrow down the possibilities.
Another thing is are all the grounds attached? one at the TB, behind the intake manifold, the one from the engine to the body by the drivers side firewall, and the ppf
Another thing is are all the grounds attached? one at the TB, behind the intake manifold, the one from the engine to the body by the drivers side firewall, and the ppf