Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-04-2013, 12:59 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 588
Total Cats: 203
Talking Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods

I have a broken bolt in a Honda exhaust header.

It is broken off about 1/8" above the flange.


Just enough to get a bite on it with some vise grips.


First thing I am going to do is heat it up with a torch.


Make the area around the broken bolt glow.


At this point , work quickly, lock the vice grips in place, and wiggle, DO NOT try to superman the broken bolt out on the first try.

Soak in WD-40, wax, engine oil.
It will smoke and stink, and watch for flare ups.


I was able to get about a 1/4 turn befor it locked up again and the vise grips kept slipping off.

Time to try something else.....

Get a nut that just fits around the broken bolt.


I used my old stick welder and welded the nut to the broken bolt.


Get a wrench on there, and keep working the bolt back and forth.


I was able to apply more force applied to the broken bolt and get it out.


Now with the broken bolt out, I can see why it broke.
A couple threads had gaulled, and sripped some.


I will let the header cool, then install a Heli-coil.
Attached Thumbnails Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1662.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1663.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1664.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1666.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1667.jpg  

Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1668.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1670.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1671.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1673.jpg   Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods-img_1675.jpg  

BogusSVO is offline  
Old 01-04-2013, 02:38 PM
  #2  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,479
Total Cats: 104
Default

I was hoping you have something sneakier than the blue tipped wrench and the ol' weld a nut/bolt on trick.
Leafy is offline  
Old 01-04-2013, 02:51 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 588
Total Cats: 203
Default

Leafy... sorry! I only have about 2 more methods I use. The Whack it with a BFH, and drill and tap.
BogusSVO is offline  
Old 01-04-2013, 02:56 PM
  #4  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,479
Total Cats: 104
Default

Haha, ok.
Leafy is offline  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:04 AM
  #5  
Newb
 
tomslack34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1
Total Cats: -3
Default

Which is the best method for bolt removal? Please share it in details. Thanks in advance.
____________________
removing broken bolts
tomslack34 is offline  
Reply
Leave a poscat -3 Leave a negcat
Old 03-05-2013, 06:40 PM
  #6  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

i have great luck with just drilling a hole in the bolt, about 1/4"-1/2" deep . spray with some penetrable lube, then hammer an allen wrench into it. sounds rough but, it works. allen sockets make it easier. remember, big enough wrench for the job but, smaller hole is better. leave some wall thickness....have your fun here...
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-05-2013, 06:46 PM
  #7  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

just say no to Helicoil if you have to use one. Meet my friend, His name is Kingcert.
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-05-2013, 09:11 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
2ndGearRubber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 1,163
Total Cats: 12
Default

Originally Posted by tomslack34
Which is the best method for bolt removal? Please share it in details. Thanks in advance.
All the info you need:

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...methods-70251/
2ndGearRubber is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 05:12 AM
  #9  
Newb
 
sprocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 22
Total Cats: 3
Default

Great information thank you, I just have one thing to say and please correct me if I am wrong. But when you heat an area of metal this hot, and than quickly cool it back down. It makes the metal stronger, but it is more brittle. I feel like people should be cautious on what parts they heat up on the car. replacing the part because of a broken bolt can put a damper on a project, But better safe than sorry...

Spencer
sprocket is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 06:57 AM
  #10  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

Dang, i was hoping for something cool.

Like a bolt broken off like a quarter of an inch down inside.
I wanted to see you build up a pad on top of it with 309 stainless. Built up far enough to get a vice grip on it and and twist it out (or whatever method from there).

That was one of my the tests for my final in my tool and die class just before i graduated. I think i took pictures of it, someday i'll dig them up.
Erat is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:00 AM
  #11  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

Why does everyone make reference to stainless?? It is NOT a structural metal for the most part. It is high carbon steel at best, with corrosion inhibitors. Most of the stainless blends do not bond well with regular steel. It also has a huge thermal expansion coefficient.
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:03 AM
  #12  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

You do not need to make the part " glow". A few hundred degrees is all that is needed . And be quick about it. You want the outter part to grow slightly, while keeping the bolt/ stud as cool as possible.
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:05 AM
  #13  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,479
Total Cats: 104
Default

Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Why does everyone make reference to stainless?? It is NOT a structural metal for the most part. It is high carbon steel at best, with corrosion inhibitors. Most of the stainless blends do not bond well with regular steel. It also has a huge thermal expansion coefficient.
Um what? Most if not all stainless bolts you'll buy from the hardware store are going to be 18/8 stainless, aka 304 stainless. Which has a maximum allowable carbon content of 0.08%. Where as high carbon steel is in the 2% neighborhood.
Leafy is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:58 AM
  #14  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

umm, how many stainless bolts does your car have, or are we talking just generally? it is not often used on autos because of the plethora of other problems that can arise from mixing stainless with other metals. like i said, high carbon at best, often low.
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:59 AM
  #15  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

watch this turn from "bolt removal" to a metallurgy debate..
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:13 PM
  #16  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

Because you're a knucklehead and turned it into a metallurgy debate i now must respond, creating a further downward spiral.

READ: 309

When it bonds with mild steel (what it's also good for) it has high tensel and rotational stregth. Good for turning a bolt out. If you were to use mild steel filler on the bolt to turn it out it would just bend twist and break off.

Credits - I went to school for this.

- I've never had to do this in a real world seniro. It's uncommon, and is easier to drill and tap. Though much larger diameter bolts (1"+) this is common and effective.
Erat is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:31 PM
  #17  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

And you had to start with name calling. Real cool guy.
Credit- real world experience. HA!
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 01:08 PM
  #18  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

So that's it? That's your counter argument.

Well done sir, bravo.


** Maybe try and learn something for once in your life.
Erat is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 01:16 PM
  #19  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

Im at work gimme a bit.

Your book smarts are outstanding! Teach me more please!
ryansmoneypit is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 01:19 PM
  #20  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Default

I will challenge you to a fab off anytime. I have pull testing equipment if you really want to learn something, smarty pants.
ryansmoneypit is offline  


Quick Reply: Broken Bolt Removal- Mixed methods



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:57 AM.