light duty alt for 2004 miata
#1
light duty alt for 2004 miata
I'm considering swapping out the heavy (18#) and heavy duty (80amp) alternator on my 2004 miata track day car for a lightweight alt.
The problem that am considering, is that the OEM alternator uses a phase/driver circuit (in which half of the regulator resides in, and is controlled by the ecu).
I would like to swap in a self regulated "one wire" alt and merely unplug the ecu connectors; but am unclear if this would merely send a code, or if the car might not run.
Has anyone tried this?
The problem that am considering, is that the OEM alternator uses a phase/driver circuit (in which half of the regulator resides in, and is controlled by the ecu).
I would like to swap in a self regulated "one wire" alt and merely unplug the ecu connectors; but am unclear if this would merely send a code, or if the car might not run.
Has anyone tried this?
#2
Tons of NBs have done this. There's a few dozen threads on the subject here.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...miataturbo.net
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...miataturbo.net
#10
I did just replace the PD alternator with a standard lightweight. I used a small NDIF/nippendenso internal fan and set it up with a standard regulator... set it to 14.7 V. It charges great, but does cause a dash charge indicator light to light up. With the ck engine, airbag, batt and the occasional the abs lighting up the dash kinda looks like a Christmas tree.
#12
Yeah, I'll mod it by pulling the bulbs..
...Unless, of course, you are being serious?
It looks like the charge indicator light (brn/red) comes off the ecu, and I believe that this is fed by the phase/driver circuit (gry, gry/red). I suppose that I could try to hook up a method to simulate the signals that the P-D portion of the circuit would normally see, rather than just unplugging the connector as I have done. Also, I need to mention that the only new light is the ck batt light. The others have been on because of previous lapses in judgement (gutting airbags, re-chipped ecu and poor braking skills)
For the moment: Leaving for the track tonight... and the car charges/runs!
...Unless, of course, you are being serious?
It looks like the charge indicator light (brn/red) comes off the ecu, and I believe that this is fed by the phase/driver circuit (gry, gry/red). I suppose that I could try to hook up a method to simulate the signals that the P-D portion of the circuit would normally see, rather than just unplugging the connector as I have done. Also, I need to mention that the only new light is the ck batt light. The others have been on because of previous lapses in judgement (gutting airbags, re-chipped ecu and poor braking skills)
For the moment: Leaving for the track tonight... and the car charges/runs!
#14
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...Unless, of course, you are being serious?
It looks like the charge indicator light (brn/red) comes off the ecu, and I believe that this is fed by the phase/driver circuit (gry, gry/red). I suppose that I could try to hook up a method to simulate the signals that the P-D portion of the circuit would normally see, rather than just unplugging the connector as I have done.
i.e., mod the wiring correctly.
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