Obviously, I'd make my own. But when you start complaining about how XYZ low production volume part is a ripoff you have to look at what it really costs to make. Corkey probably looses money or just barely breaks even on every single one of those he sells unless he has Jose the illegal mexican making them for $20 a day under the table.
***Diagnoses cracked header via text message without ever seeing or hearing the car....even give the location of the crack...........same guy tells owner to check his motor mounts because they not only are the cause of the header hitting the frame.....The bad mounts were the root cause of the cracked header****** owner decides to take a hammer and floor jack to the header instead........#facepalm
I swear the reading comprehension on his site is completely lost sometimes.
"I recently had the welds at the flange rewelded and I suppose since he didn't have a jig it pushed the end outwards away from the engine and into the subframe."
Obviously we don't know the extent of this work and if it did fit prior. Stop assuming it's the motor mounts when there was work done to the freaking thing!
OP: HAI GAYZ, My MAD TYTE RIDE WON'T START AND I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY!
Forum: OH YEAH BREH THAT HAPPENED TO ME ONCE. MUST BE YOUR ECU. REPLACE AND WINN!
We all know that's not how this **** works.
Easy way to fix this. Did it fit fine before the re-weld? If yes then make them re-weld and fix it. Done.
Hey....Dickwad....I'm the one that found the crack....I know exactly what was done to fix it....and I know exactly where it was broken. Not to mention your "solution" does nothing to address WHY it broke. I have had headers re-welded a couple times and I am not sure how welding a crack in the pipe at the header flange moves the collector 3". If it did, the flange is now warped so badly it would never seal again anyway. The header primary pipe was cracked on the top side of the number 3 and number 4 pipe. A broken, worn or loose driver side motor mount could very easlity lead to those cracks as the motor would be allowed to rotate toward the passenger side of the car under load. I am in no way saying that the header fit before...what I am saying is if he doesn't address WHAT caused the header to crack, no matter what he does to fix the "fit"....he will have to fix the crack again very shortly.
Ordered some new 75A mounts from 949 today. Talked to the PO and confirmed the mounts might of been replaced with poly mounts in 2009 or 2010. It's safe to say that if something like that can wear out in a year for a track car that it'll wear out on an auto-x car in 4-5 years. My car has seen A LOT of auto-x runs over the past 5 years too.
Going to drive it around 1 more day, see how it goes, and most likely get it rewelded this weekend....unless it magically gets better
Thanks for all the suggestions and/or help guys, I appreciate it.
edit: holy **** I missed page 2 on this thread LOL