18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm one of those members. Are you?

Whatever...I'll just let OP chime in before we carry on with any more of this dickery. If he plans to go with a failtrex instead of turbo then this argument is pointless anyway.

My only point in this is for you guys to stop telling noobs to shoot for the stars, and let them be realistic for once. When they come in here all cocky and throwing out big numbers we shut them down quickly, yet when this guy shows up with a realistic goal in mind we tell him it won't be enough? lol

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'm going to ignore the '250hp' mention. actually, i'll ignore all mention of horsepower. pretty much any built miata motor is good for like 500hp and a built motor is rarely never will prevent you from making "MAD POWER YO"

Things you want, because racecar
Bottom end:
- billet oil pump
- ARP main studs
- bearings and clearances are personal preference. I run race bearings and loose clearances, for example.

Head:
- ARP head studs
- new valve guides (rockauto?)
- shim under bucket lifters (http://949racing.com/supertech-cam-f...ter-miata.aspx)
- inconel exhaust valves (from FlyinMiata)

Also the FM rebuild kit, like most parts they sell, is overpriced. You can get all the same parts from any dealer that sells miata parts, like Rosenthal Arlington Mazda Parts Store or Mazda Parts - Authentic OEM Mazda Parts direct from Jim Ellis Mazda | Jim Ellis Mazda

If you're going to run a coolant reroute (and you really should) then you want a 94-00 head gasket.

GTurbo

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys, well I'm going Rotrex because I'm tight with a lot of the guys at Skunk2/Kraftwerks and they're revamping the KW kit for the BP and can help me build get the right kit and trims to reach whatever goal I have.
I've had a turbo car before and I loved it, dont get me wrong, but I want to try something else and I'm a hard-working-but-somewhat-broke college student who dicks around with cars with a certain level of curiosity. I'm not going to get into the s/c vs turbo that's ever present on the forums. I'm aware of the differences and drawbacks but I'm using my connections to make the best of what I can.

That being said... I should definitely be aiming for 300whp even out of a i/c rotrex. I most likely wont be going with the regular trim of the KW kit and can size the pulley appropriate to my build etc.

I was leaning towards the FM rebuild kit because it would sure be nice to have a big box of **** to bring to class and know I have everything I need to rebuild the engine as opposed to piecing it all together. I guess thats pretty st00pid to pay the extra $ for convenience when I'm going through the trouble to build a 100hp engine.

When/if I get bored with the rotrex I have no doubts I'll be moving to a turbo setup this is just a here and now situation.

Things I'll add to my original list
ARP studs main and head
billet oil pump

18psi

iTrader: (76)

"budget" and "rotrex kit" shouldn't be in the same sentence.

...unless said friends are hooking you up for like 30% of retail

GTurbo

iTrader: (1)

Soviet,
How necessary are the shim under bucket lifters? and what are their purpose in building an engine for boost? I dont have all the money to throw at this and dont want to keep adding parts until I had some 800hp engine I'll never use to its potential.

I've seen some DIY coolant reroutes on here, whats the avg. cost of those? Theres no way I could afford one of the M-tuned reroute kits while doing all this but I probably should do something other than my Koyo rad and lower thermostat.

Thanks for the input and not being dicks about the rotrex everyone

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Look at Falcons thread: its basically exactly what you're planning to do. Built motor, rotrex, the whole 9 yards.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Screw shim-under bucket... go shimless bucket.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

The shim under bucket is for high-rpm. The 99-05 heads are shim over bucket and the shims can actually fly out at high rpm. You can swap lifters after you build your head, head doesn't need to come off.

All you need is a kia water neck ($20), rear spacer ($100 from BEGI, cheaper in classifieds, free if you machine it), front water neck block off ($20) and a $20 radiator hose from an Escalade.

BEGI Rear Thermostat Spacer 1990-2005 BEGi
Trackspeed Engineering
Easy Coolant Reroute – part 1 — revlimiter.net
Sorta-easy Coolant Reroute – part 2 — revlimiter.net

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Wasn't aware anyone made them for a BP.

GTurbo

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone recommend a gasket and seal kit other than Flyin Miata's? Finding lots of different options but not many specifics

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

On the reroute. Go to your local junkyard and you can get a KIA water neck for around $10. With a little elbow grease, it'll look brand new.

On the gaskets. Join Mazda Motorsports and they sell a complete engine seal kit. I think its a little cheaper than the one Flyin Miata sells.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

They don't.

Zetec.

Fits.

All kinds of fun things were realized when i figured out that KLs and BPs share lifter sizes.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Have you successfully ran a BP with shimless lifters from a KL?
Please share, maybe start a new thread so we don't crap on the OPs.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

KLs don't have shimless lifters technically available, either...

Here's the thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ere-buy-67555/

The long and short of it is that the Zetec shimless lifters fit in a KL. (Been a couple guys on the Probe forums that have done it.) Lifters that fit in a KL, fit in a BP. I'm currently using BP shim-over lifters in my KL.

I'll dig through my docs and find the info and post it in the other thread.

bmxfuel007

iTrader: (21)

Since you gotta rebuild an engine on a budget ANYWAY, might as well go ebay rods and supertech pistons. if you want, get a boundary engineering race oil pump. Get some race bearings from trackspeed and call it a day

My bottom end is built with supertech 8.6:1 and I haven't noticed any lag on initial throttle. Top end is stock (although rebuilt) and I've been more than happy so far. Haven't dyno'ed the thing though, but the thing throws me back in the seat when I want with a turbo, and when I'm cruising, it's like it's always itching for more. Day and night compared to pre-rebuild and turbo

I don't think you should even worry about a HP goal. Build the engine the way you want it first within your budget (key word is within) and see how much it makes. Make a goal of the kind of parts you wanna have and stick to it. Keep in mind, you will always spend more than you initially thought