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Old 09-17-2015, 08:45 PM   #1
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Default What happened to my Dynalite?

Last track event was cut short due to a sticky driver's side caliper that cracked a rotor and burned up the pads. Passenger side was fine. Disassembly revealed damage to 3 of the 4 pistons and caliper bores. Outside 2 pistons popped out pretty easily and the inside 2 required more air pressure and patience to free things up.

Is this caliper rebuildable? There is similar damage to 3 of the 4 bores.







Inside the bore, where brake fluid lives, is still smooth and I can't feel where the anodizing has rubbed away. Outside lip is not smooth and I believe did some minor piston damage (they are no longer smooth and have visible wear).

I know the pistons are trash, but what about the caliper? Can it be saved with some new seals?
What would cause this and how do I prevent it?
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What happened to my Dynalite?-8z4jfml.jpg   What happened to my Dynalite?-meufpmt.jpg   What happened to my Dynalite?-tbpledu.jpg  

Last edited by midpack; 09-17-2015 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:01 PM   #2
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I wish I could see the pictures.

Dynalites don't have dust boots, does it look like brake grit or something got in there to damage the bores/pistons?

Summit sells replacement pistons, but they are ~$50. That's half a new dynalite, and you haven't even bought seals yet.
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Old 09-17-2015, 11:37 PM   #3
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Pictures should be fixed.

I actually have a set of Dynapros coming my way so I'm not too worried about rebuilding this one. Definitely want to know how to prevent a reoccurrence though.
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Old 09-18-2015, 05:46 AM   #4
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Yes, it's probably rebuildable. No, it's not worth it.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Yes, it's probably rebuildable. No, it's not worth it.
What could cause that to happen and how do I prevent it? I'd rather not buy new calipers every 3 years.
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Old 09-18-2015, 12:11 PM   #6
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edit: oh no dust boots, that sorta makes sense
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Old 09-18-2015, 02:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midpack View Post
What could cause that to happen and how do I prevent it? I'd rather not buy new calipers every 3 years.
It's hard to say. One side of one caliper could be machining tolerances, bad luck, dirty fluid, debris behind that pad, combination of any of those, etc.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:06 PM   #8
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I was looking at some old threads and someone made a comment about "sav's black car" being a benchmark for whether something was worth doing. What is this black car and what kind of brakes does it run front/rear?
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It's hard to say. One side of one caliper could be machining tolerances, bad luck, dirty fluid, debris behind that pad, combination of any of those, etc.
bad luck - check - blew the stock turbo at this event last year
dirty fluid - possible - it was leaking out the bleeder adapters earlier in the day
debris behind pad - likely from the leaky fluid

I was the guy that called you last Friday asking about fluid leaking out the bleeder adapter threads. Snugging them down did indeed stop the leak but it is entirely possible some brake dust filled fluid worked its way into the piston area and gummed things up.

After this incident I'm going to replace piston seals and bleeder adapter sealant every rotor change.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlwaysBroken View Post
I was looking at some old threads and someone made a comment about "sav's black car" being a benchmark for whether something was worth doing. What is this black car and what kind of brakes does it run front/rear?
https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...q-17psi-49948/

https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...pgrades-42276/

https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...-thread-40699/

My old black '94 was sort of the benchmark for road race turbo cars from 2009 to 2011. When it last existed, it was on TSE gen1 11.75 fronts, 1.8L calipers on either 1.8L or Sport rotors (I forget which), and a Sport 15/16" master.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:16 PM   #11
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What brake setup are you running? For sure don't try to repair that caliper. At a minimum you need to replace that caliper, and figure out what caused this failure in the first place.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:32 PM   #12
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TSE 11.75" up front and sport brakes in the rear with Hawk DTC-60s all around.

I'm upgrading the fronts to Dynapro and going to try out the Performance Friction PF01/PF11 that seems to be the new hotness. Weight difference between Dynalite and Dynapro is significant, maybe twice as heavy. I guess that is the price you pay for a stiffer caliper.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #13
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<p>On a cleaning note, whats the best way to clean all the gunk/brake dust/etc when doing pad/rotor changes?</p>
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Weight difference between Dynalite and Dynapro is significant, maybe twice as heavy.
Who told you that?
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:50 PM   #15
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<p>Dynapro: 3.8lbs</p><p>Dynalite: 3.4lbs</p>
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Who told you that?
the internet.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Who told you that?
Some jackass standing in the garage Sunday night holding both calipers. Clearly my hands need calibrated.

Very surprised there is only a .4lb difference. It sure felt like more. Although not going to complain!
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #18
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According to my scale
Dynalite: 3.2lbs
Dynapro: 3.5lbs
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:52 PM   #19
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0.3lbs sounds a little closer. IIRC the difference on my scale was ~4oz.
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