magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

no way just toss the abs anyway real drivers do not need it. Only lazy ******.

scandmx5

iTrader: (2)

/thread revival

okay so i researched this topic, and am still at a loss as to what to do

I have a 2003 w/ ABS (sport suspension)
just got new rotors, pads, and stainless lines for install
i'm really not that car savvy, so we're having a tech day this weekend at Rotornut's house for the Atlanta crew- brakes aren't the thing to **** up on if any, so what's my best bet? remove the ABS, or has anyone yet to find the key for easing the pain of bleeding the ABS?
thanks

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna go with this. Seriously.


Or just bleed again and again and again until you've gone through a 25 gallon drum of brake fluid/your pedal feels right.
Bleeding cars with ABS always sucks hard.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

I installed stainless lines this week on my 94 w/ ABS, and am now chasing mysterious shittiness.

I'm thinking about ordering three of these for the ABS pump:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5037


Discuss.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

AF1 has them even cheaper.

AF1 Racing : Aprilia Parts and Accessories: Banjo Bolt w/ Bleeder Kit -

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I dont think that is going to work. The ABS pump has chambers, you need the pump to pump in order to get the fluid out. My plan when I add ABS to my racecar (because racecar), is to have all the wheels off the ground and the car on and spin the wheels then hit the brakes to get the ABS to cycle. Eventually I'd like to figure out what wires on the 01+ abs pump need to be energized to cycle it and avoid the above sillyness.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

After looking at how it works and asking around, I think you're right. I also think a tool to cycle the pump is something somebody needs to figure out quick..

codrus

When I tried it, the "jack it up, run it, and hit the brakes" didn't really do much on mine. I wasn't able to get the ABS system to audibly engage, and it made no appreciable difference in the pedal feel.

--Ian

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, at worst you should only have to spin all 4 wheels up to 5 or 10mph to throw the abs into self test.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

then your ABS is broken.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

I talked to Tom at The Parts Group, and he suggested that putting it on the lift without wheels on it (with lug nuts to retain the rotors), and spinning one wheel while bleeding one of the front corners would get the pump to run. I won't be able to get to the shop before Friday or Saturday, but I intend to try this. If it doesn't work, I'm going to go through the harness and try putting a momentary switch between the appropriate wires on the pump and firing it manually.

codrus

ABS works fine, I've engaged it multiple times on the street and autox course.

--Ian

DaveC

I've tried cycling the solenoids (without the pump running) while bleeding and it did not cure my soft pedal.

I will happily build the electronics to cycle the solenoids while the pump is running if someone will send me the mating connectors. There must be an unloved harness that someone can cut the connectors off of....

Really, I'd like to get an entire ABS unit so that I can disassemble it as see what's really inside. At one point I called around to the local salvage yards to see if I could get one cheap, but there weren't any. They probably would have wanted $200 for it anyway, which is more than I want to spend just to dissect it.

If anyone has an ABS unit that they are willing to part with (I'll even pay shipping) then I will disassemble it, take photos, write it up for the greater good...

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Ask Tom at thepartsgroup if he wants to donate one to the cause/ let me get one cheap. I'll be out there on Friday and can pick it up.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

so you started the car on lifts, put it in first and got it up to speed (maybe 20mph?) and hit the brakes and it just stopped without activating the pump?

codrus

I followed the procedure I found in various threads here and on m.net. Car on jackstands, wheels off, start it up, put it in gear, get it up to 20-30 mph, stand on clutch and brake simultaneously. No banging, no noticable pedal pulse, hubs stopped turning immediately. The acid test would be hooking up the clamp-on ammeter to the pump power line, but I didn't try it that time. Doing this also made no noticable difference to the pedal feel once I had the car back on the road.

OTOH, taking the car out on the road and doing real-world ABS stops *did* make a noticable difference to pedal feel. It's still not really where I'd like it to be, though.

--Ian

midpack

iTrader: (3)

Leave it in gear and ride the breaks gently. You have to have speed differences while braking in order for ABS to activate.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

maybe the NB abs is a little smarter?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps. But you shouldnt even have to get an abs engagement. It should cycle everything on the self test when you hit 10mph the first time after startup. Now you might need to hit 10mph with all 4 wheels to get the self test to start which is a little more difficult to do. But you only need to spin the hubs to ~150rpm to make the sensors read that fast. I could whip up some hub to drill adapters for spinning the front wheels, 2 hand drills and 2 people with the clutch let out in 1st should do it. ****.

midpack

iTrader: (3)

What happens if your spin each front wheel in opposite directions?