Zaphod

Let's see:

This one MAF 99-00



Is a SUMITOMO SL Series Part.-Nr. 6189-0638
(So it's not the exactly like the Crank position sensor - because that is a DL series connector - but they seem to be interchangeable)
http://swsct.sws.co.jp/components/en..._s=61890638sls

So MAF = checked!


This one OEM COP



Is also the same SUMITOMO SL Series Part.-Nr. 6189-0638
(You can see that it is the SL series because of that white plastic tab on the side of the connector, see here)

http://swsct.sws.co.jp/components/en..._s=61890638sls

So OEM COP = checked!


This one VVT 01




Is a SUMITOMO SL Series Part.-Nr. 6189-0642

http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sho...01_730_735_736

But also seems to be outdated...
So VVT 01 = checked!


This one OEM Injectors




Is a SUMITOMO SL Series Part.-Nr. 6189-0651

http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sho...01_730_735_736

But also seems to be outdated...
So OEM injectors = checked!

To be continued!

Zaphod

I found a hint on the Gauge cluster connectors - they are also used on a variety of Ford models - I found them on ebay - here:

This is a replacement part - I didn't find anything about the OEM manufacturer.

Motorcraft WPT-278 Instrument Panel Connector | eBay

Motorcraft WPT278 Instrument panel connector male - at instrument cluster - analog plug a - black - 16 leads $54.86 | Auto Parts Tomorrow
Have a look at these prices ...


Here you can find the complete Ford connector list:
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...torcatalog.pdf

Our 3 connectors for the Gauge cluster are
(from the back of the gauge cluster left to right)
left connector WPT-278 (page 35)

middle connector WPT-192 (page 30)

right connector WPT-202 (page 35)

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Now, if only we could find matching female connectors for the above cluster connectors.

Zaphod

I suppose there won't be fitting female connectors, because the gauge cluster connectors are made with flexible printed circuit.
We might be able if we find the OEM manufacturer of the connectors... I did search a good bit with zero findings...

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Mr. Sven, you are an amazing individual. I may have a certain amount of motivation in getting this started, but I don't think I ever could pull all this off.

I wonder how hard it is to de-pin, and, really, where one finds pins that fit it. I'm not sure that much on there is very sensitive, anyway (i.e. you could probably just splice into it without huge effect but your oil pressure looking 1% low), but it would make things much, much better.


Why, Reverant, Why? Plug and play stuff? I can't wholy argue. But as long as you can repin the connector, it's not really a big deal. Personally I think I'd be happier cutting the whole connector off and adding some DB's in between..... And you can do whatever you want in the middle.



----------------------
Speaking of - while I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, it seems the main engine/harness connectors (there's a couple, right, like 6 pin and whatnot) are the things the PnP people want. Instead of putting a connector to mate each injector and each coil then another to go to the new coils, wouldn't you rather have a big, 6 or 12 or whatever pin connector with your engine harness on it? Totally seems the way to go. Still plug and play, but very clean!

Do we have those?

czubaka

iTrader: (3)

I've used a Deutsch 6-pin DTM connector for my coil wires after the first owner completely borked the wiring with a crappy link piggyback install. Works like a champ. The only problem is the $250 crimping tool for the solid pins. They do have sheet metal pins, though.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I know I found one of them, the one for the coil and injector harness. Someone will have to confirm what is the same as the 94 and what isnt but the connector on the sub harness side is the sumitomo 6P090WP-DL-Female Connector.

Zaphod

I did this in 2007...

Hers the post:
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...36/#post170441

As I have a 99-00 BUT 1,6 B6 Euro modell which didn't make it to the US it's different from the 99-00 BP 1,9.
The 1,6 99-00 have a common connector that sits on back of the left engine side and is about 35cm long. It has a 6-pin Sumitomo connector on one end and 2 3-pin sumitomo connectors on the other end at the coils.

(left upper side of the picture, right connector)


Looks like this inside This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 799x600.



You can pull the orange part out with the help of a screwdriver, has two notches on top which hold it in place


At the underside of the old pins inside you have also little notches, same system as the new coil-connectors use.


Push them down and you can pull the old cables out. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 799x600.



Now you can use the Braineack pins on the new harness and just push them in. Works!


Then you simly push the orange part on again!


Now you got a plug and play harness.

This connector is a SUMITOMO DL sealed series Part.-Nr. 6195-0021

I don't know if any of the other or older models got a similar connector.

The 99-00 BP has got the "common connector" called X-15
(see wiring schematics) http://www.madracki.com/miata/images...g/2000wire.pdf

at the front of the engine, that seems to hold the +12V and trigger signal for the coils, but not the grounds...

Zaphod

I did find a part.-nr. for the instrument cluster connector terminals - but I have no chance to find a part.-nr. for the housings...

Part.Nr. Terminals: D5AB-14474-FA

Terminal Supply Company - Product Detail : TERMINALS & CONNECTORS -> TERMINALS -> TERMINALS - FORD -> D5AB-14474-FA

Gryff

iTrader: (6)

Are you guys using a special depin tool, or a paperclip to get these pins out? I have never had great, reliable success depinning things.

Reveal to me your secrets!

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Is it hard to get in there without breaking? That's really my big concern. I think my connectors are fine - so while I think this list should exist for the community, I'd be totally happy pulling all the pins and replacing them if I thought I could get away with it - though I still need to know the connector brand and series number.


What is this Braineack Pin of which you speak? Sounds like a hack. :-)


Silly wasted spark people. Not that I really MIND, but I certainly CAN run full sequential (not that I'm sure I believe there are real benefits.... Guess a mildly hotter spark at high RPM? I think you need to turn over like 10k to get a significant drop on the Toyo COPs.


Seems pretty reasonable. Again, it comes down to 'does pulling the pin trash the connector'? Certainly seems like we are getting there.

Perhaps I should make separate section for pins. We could certainly add a collum for it, then down below list them.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

<wrong thread. Oooops>

Zaphod

@Abe - you can un-pin most connectors quite easily with such a un-pin tool

Tools



Those connectors are made to be un-pinned and re-pinned. With a little experience its easy.

Here is a Youtube "How-to" - the connector is not exactly like ours but you get the idea.


"Braineack-Pin" is out of the COP-Thread, I think Brain suggested a terminal for the COP connectors to use (which wasn't quite the correct one - but did work.)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

there are better pins to use than the ones for the COP thread. those were never correct.

Ill pull it up today I have them at home.

Zaphod

Well for a start we could use the correct ones from Sumitomo or Yazaki, now that we have the part.-nr.s...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Well I got my connectors in from eastern beaver and new united. the AMP 2P is NOT the IAC, and the VICS solenoid is NOT the SUMITOMO 2P040WP-HX-F. Any other ideas on those?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Sorry everyone! I had some travel and haven't been paying attention. Want to help figure this out now.

"Today".

I agree, if we can do this, that would rock. I'm thinking that's the way to go - at least my connectors, none of the bodies are worn out. The rest of this thread is for everyone else's* benefit.


Leafy! Sorry to hear that. Can you get a pic - good ones - of yours next to some originals, or the sensors, or anything? I want to figure out if we're close like a line number, or if we have totally the wrong manufacturer, etc.
I wonder if Mazdacomp would be any help?


*I do worry about breaking the connectors - sometimes they can be pretty brittle. My idea is just to try, replace what I break - but I'd like to know what will/had break so I only have to order once.

Zaphod

Hi Leafy,

in post nr. 35 I identified the IAC connector as

AMP SSC (Sealed Sensor Connector) System connector
Part.-Nr. 184000-1

The AMP connector from Eastern Beaver is a Econoseal series connector.


and in post nr. 52 I assumed that the VICS connector is a

SUMITOMO 62 sealed series connector
Sumitomo 62 sealed series 090(2.3mm) 2 Position Female Housing [Gray] [6098-0135] : New United Race Tech, New United Race Tech

Though I mus say that I am not sure about the that one...


Greets

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That 62 series looks closer to the VICS, what I believe is preventing that one from going on is the two keys to either side of the lock. I think if I modified the connector I could make it fit. But now I've got to try to find places to buy those connectors, which wont be as easy.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Leafy:
Have you thought about - once we know for sure which connector is which - picking up replacement pins and getting a junkyard/used connector? Lots of people have old harnesses around, and many people "take off" VICS, so there should be plenty of connectors around.

2-Way Receptacle Kit

Is that the one? If so, add it to spread sheet and order it. :-)