CTDRFT's K-Miata
07-17-2015, 09:59 PM
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CTDRFT's K-Miata
I wasn't planning on doing a big build thread like my last car. I haven't posted on here much. I figured it was better to spend my time doing work on the car not posting pictures.
That being said, this is where i stand. Pretty much ready to fire up, but waiting on my big tube header to show up and still need to fabricate exhaust and intake tube.
That being said, this is where i stand. Pretty much ready to fire up, but waiting on my big tube header to show up and still need to fabricate exhaust and intake tube.
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07-18-2015, 03:29 PM
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https://instagram.com/p/5SP77eMD1f/?...y=jlarosa51212
It starts!!!
I have a **** load of fuel leaks, Brand new earls fittings are leaking at the flare/oring. I'm gonna try and get some conical seals 1st, these things should seal right up. Im super pissed about this.
and i need my header to really start it and let it run. So thats all you guys get for now.
It starts!!!
I have a **** load of fuel leaks, Brand new earls fittings are leaking at the flare/oring. I'm gonna try and get some conical seals 1st, these things should seal right up. Im super pissed about this.
and i need my header to really start it and let it run. So thats all you guys get for now.
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08-13-2015, 10:59 PM
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So i finally got my Kmiata Big Tube Header, Im pushing forward with the project trying to overcome each obstacle as i hit it.
I think its fair to say that the only K swapped cars that i have seen successfully running, have been done by Honda guys who bought Miata's, rather than Miata guys who bought Honda motors. Making things worse is that this swap has been designed around the NB chassis. So NA guys are kinda in the dark.
That being said, David from Kmiata has been very helpful via email in helping me resolve any issues i have come across and i have been providing him with some feedback and constructive criticism (ranting).
For anyone doing this swap in a NA chassis, I'm going to list was i used for my conversion harness wiring, as well as some other things that are not in the directions that i feel miata guys may overlook.
CONVERSION HARNESS WIRING
For 1993 Miata, may work on other NA's
Kmiata conversion harness Miata harness
12v Constant red------------------- white/red wire (btw fuse to stop fuse)
12v Switched orange---------------black/white wire (ignition switch to cigar fuse)
Fuel Pump green------------------- blue/red wire (circuit opening relay)
Tach Signal black------------------- Yellow/blue wire (ignitor pin H1 on cluster)
CEL/MIL yellow--------------------- yellow/black wire (pin 1C on cluster)
Starter Signal large blk/wht ------- Violet wire (from start sig fuse)
Oil Pressure brown-------------------Yellow/red (pin 2b on cluster)
Fan Control blue---------------------Black/Green (cooling fan relay)
I removed the main relay completely as well as all of the engine wiring, ABS,SRS,A/C,CRUISE,PS. The harness was completely stripped and de-pinned and re-loomed. I spliced the two Black and White wires that That go between the engine fuse/main relay and cooling fan relay together, you have to pop open the engine bay fuse box to do this)
Also i used the factory cooling temp sender for the miata gauge, I put this in the K-tuned water housing on the back of the head and ran a wire from the sender to pin 2L (black/blue wire) on the cluster.
I ran most of these wires with the harness stripped, and had them looped in the passenger foot well to be connected to the Kmiata conversion harness.
CRANK SENSOR
If you are running a TSX K24 motor, and using the 02-04 RSX harness like the directions say, you need to change the plugs on the crank angle sensor, or change the sensor to a RSX one, IF YOU CHANGE PLUGS YOU MUST CHANGE THE PIN LOCATIONS.
Heres is the diagram
OXYGEN SENSOR
Next, the factory O2 sensor plug is on the conversion harness, I overlooked this until this night, I bought a PLX wideband gauge anyways because i did not have the factory sensor. The factory (upper,primary) sensor is wide band already. Its the easiest way to go.
If you want to use a after market gauge in conjunction with the OEM one, You need to wire the gauge in per these instructions.
http://www.-------------/install/Xen...etup-Guide.htm
If you want to use a aftermarket gauge only, You must wire the analog input cable. For instance, my PLX has a 0-5v analog output that i wired to the Analog input-0 on the Kpro.
You must select PLX wideband in the Analog input parameters menu, you must then go to closed loop settings and deactivate the OEM O2 sensor errors. And select External Wideband, and the Analog input your using.
Next go to your wideband settings, and change it for the analog input as well.
This should work to run the car without the OEM sensor.
Hope that helps anyone doing the swap in a NA, feel free to PM me with any questions.
Heres some pics of the Header.
I think its fair to say that the only K swapped cars that i have seen successfully running, have been done by Honda guys who bought Miata's, rather than Miata guys who bought Honda motors. Making things worse is that this swap has been designed around the NB chassis. So NA guys are kinda in the dark.
That being said, David from Kmiata has been very helpful via email in helping me resolve any issues i have come across and i have been providing him with some feedback and constructive criticism (ranting).
For anyone doing this swap in a NA chassis, I'm going to list was i used for my conversion harness wiring, as well as some other things that are not in the directions that i feel miata guys may overlook.
CONVERSION HARNESS WIRING
For 1993 Miata, may work on other NA's
Kmiata conversion harness Miata harness
12v Constant red------------------- white/red wire (btw fuse to stop fuse)
12v Switched orange---------------black/white wire (ignition switch to cigar fuse)
Fuel Pump green------------------- blue/red wire (circuit opening relay)
Tach Signal black------------------- Yellow/blue wire (ignitor pin H1 on cluster)
CEL/MIL yellow--------------------- yellow/black wire (pin 1C on cluster)
Starter Signal large blk/wht ------- Violet wire (from start sig fuse)
Oil Pressure brown-------------------Yellow/red (pin 2b on cluster)
Fan Control blue---------------------Black/Green (cooling fan relay)
I removed the main relay completely as well as all of the engine wiring, ABS,SRS,A/C,CRUISE,PS. The harness was completely stripped and de-pinned and re-loomed. I spliced the two Black and White wires that That go between the engine fuse/main relay and cooling fan relay together, you have to pop open the engine bay fuse box to do this)
Also i used the factory cooling temp sender for the miata gauge, I put this in the K-tuned water housing on the back of the head and ran a wire from the sender to pin 2L (black/blue wire) on the cluster.
I ran most of these wires with the harness stripped, and had them looped in the passenger foot well to be connected to the Kmiata conversion harness.
CRANK SENSOR
If you are running a TSX K24 motor, and using the 02-04 RSX harness like the directions say, you need to change the plugs on the crank angle sensor, or change the sensor to a RSX one, IF YOU CHANGE PLUGS YOU MUST CHANGE THE PIN LOCATIONS.
Heres is the diagram
OXYGEN SENSOR
Next, the factory O2 sensor plug is on the conversion harness, I overlooked this until this night, I bought a PLX wideband gauge anyways because i did not have the factory sensor. The factory (upper,primary) sensor is wide band already. Its the easiest way to go.
If you want to use a after market gauge in conjunction with the OEM one, You need to wire the gauge in per these instructions.
http://www.-------------/install/Xen...etup-Guide.htm
If you want to use a aftermarket gauge only, You must wire the analog input cable. For instance, my PLX has a 0-5v analog output that i wired to the Analog input-0 on the Kpro.
You must select PLX wideband in the Analog input parameters menu, you must then go to closed loop settings and deactivate the OEM O2 sensor errors. And select External Wideband, and the Analog input your using.
Next go to your wideband settings, and change it for the analog input as well.
This should work to run the car without the OEM sensor.
Hope that helps anyone doing the swap in a NA, feel free to PM me with any questions.
Heres some pics of the Header.
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09-07-2015, 07:25 PM
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So my car is running, its running on the base map i got from xenocron, and its running pretty damn good. I haven't put it under full load or full rpm. But i can say that this car is a absolute blast to drive. Its so much more drivable than the race car, and honestly feels faster right now due to the bigger displacement and stout mid range.
Any one interested in this swap, you won't be disappointed with the out come provided you take the time to do a quality swap. I don't know what a k20 feels like compared to a k24, but this thing will be a ripper. I have 35 miles on the swap and the dyno session is scheduled for the 17th at Xenocron.
here are some pics of the latest work and state of the build, I need to mount the hood and clean the car up some more before dyno day.
Exhaust is my 1st Tig welding project, all 3" 16g 304 stainless, stainless vbands and hangers aswell. It has a 15" resonator after the flex and a 16" long Borla XR-1 muffler. Sounds great, very throaty for a Honda.
Custom RevLimitter Gauges, based on the ones Emilio had done for his K powered car, but tweaked for what i wanted.
Even my little rugrat loves it!!
Any one interested in this swap, you won't be disappointed with the out come provided you take the time to do a quality swap. I don't know what a k20 feels like compared to a k24, but this thing will be a ripper. I have 35 miles on the swap and the dyno session is scheduled for the 17th at Xenocron.
here are some pics of the latest work and state of the build, I need to mount the hood and clean the car up some more before dyno day.
Exhaust is my 1st Tig welding project, all 3" 16g 304 stainless, stainless vbands and hangers aswell. It has a 15" resonator after the flex and a 16" long Borla XR-1 muffler. Sounds great, very throaty for a Honda.
Custom RevLimitter Gauges, based on the ones Emilio had done for his K powered car, but tweaked for what i wanted.
Even my little rugrat loves it!!
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09-07-2015, 09:19 PM
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What radiator are you using?
What are you doing for the oil pressure sender?
Did you do anything different on the idler pulley? Bolt looks like it might be bigger than 10mm.
Nice job on the exhaust. I did mine as a first welding project as well (but used flux core mig). It will work find but it doesn't look as pretty as yours.
What are you doing for the oil pressure sender?
Did you do anything different on the idler pulley? Bolt looks like it might be bigger than 10mm.
Nice job on the exhaust. I did mine as a first welding project as well (but used flux core mig). It will work find but it doesn't look as pretty as yours.
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09-07-2015, 09:26 PM
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Radiator is a Griffen dual row cross flow. Dual -16an on driver side, all -16 ktuned housings.
Oil pressure sender is put in place of the factory k series one and wired into the Miata wiring harness. You can see it in front of the header.
Not sure what you mean about the pulley? It's a ep3 idler pulley that I made a custom mounting spacer for.
Oil pressure sender is put in place of the factory k series one and wired into the Miata wiring harness. You can see it in front of the header.
Not sure what you mean about the pulley? It's a ep3 idler pulley that I made a custom mounting spacer for.
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09-07-2015, 09:29 PM
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Yeah I have been driving without a hood, so cooling has not been a problem yet. I think the tanks will be ok as long as I keep them filled with fluid, there's more gap than you think, I'm more worried about the head light motor and the vtec solenoid wiring
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09-18-2015, 03:01 AM
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I made 1whp more than that on 12 psi with a 2554.
I want this. Stock RSX type S startup/ run characteristics...in a car that is not wrong wheel drive and is lighter. God I want this.
I want this. Stock RSX type S startup/ run characteristics...in a car that is not wrong wheel drive and is lighter. God I want this.
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09-18-2015, 04:56 PM
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Looks good. And you'll see that your midrange will really shine when you put a built motor in there since you have such a big header and manifold.
We tested the S2 Ultra against the Golden Eagle, and ended up going with the GE due to big mid range gains over the Ultra. If you're interested in one let me know
What's your final power goal for the car?
We tested the S2 Ultra against the Golden Eagle, and ended up going with the GE due to big mid range gains over the Ultra. If you're interested in one let me know
What's your final power goal for the car?
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