Bryce

iTrader: (24)

As some of you may know, my car has been leaking oil for over a year now. It started after I first dropped the subframe and pan to tap for an oil return line. I've pulled the motor 3 times since them in attempts to fix this problem.

It will leak about a quart every 300 miles.
On the latest attempt it seems to only be leaking near the front main bearing.
This weekend will be attempt number 4. I will be putting in a 6 speed transmisson to replace the 5 speed I blew up and dropping the front subframe at the same time.

The block and the oil pan have been honed flat with a large honing stone and I have new oil seals in addition to a new windage tray this time.
I've used rtv blue and also tried rtv black.
Do yall have any tips or tricks that can make this a successfull fix?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

We used rtv gray over the weekend. make a nice bead under the windage tray and press it down, then over top as well. you should put a bead around the FMS and RMS curves and replace the curved rubber gaskets in those spots as well.

My rtv had failed at the rear main, looks like it never cured.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Rtv on top of the rubber seals once they are put in too, correct?
Also, rtv around each hole?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Yeah, you should put a bead in the in the curved area, fit the gaskets, there should be a ltittle notch in the middle for them to sit correctly.

Then a continuous bead should be put around the entire perimeter, including the gaskets, and install the pan. I know we made sure to tighten from the middle outward, but the FSM doesn't specify.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Alright I've done all of that correctly in the past attempts. How hard did you press initially and how long did you let it sit before torqing the bolts?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think the bolts only require like 80-90 in-lbs. so pretty much hand tight on each one. We let it tack up a little before installing, not long. Maybe you need to give it a longer curing time?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Last time I got them finger tight or until the rtv just barely started to squeeze out then waited over night to torque them. That was with rtv blue.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

i let mine sit a minimum of 8 hrs before i put oil in it or reinstall it. Do the torque before you let it cure you might have moved something around btw i used RTV black on my last attempt and it has held fine so far.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

We went ahead and tightened it once the pan was fit. I think my previous issue was because i was a little overzealous with the rtv, there was a few beads that oozed out and trapped on my pick-up screen.

but rtv ultra gray and black should work best. Ultra black has a lower temp rating, but the label say highest oil resistance. Make sure that surface is clean clean clean clean. We went through 4 cans of brake cleaner cleaning out my pan and various surfaces.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yes, +1 on keeping everything clean. If you unbolt it and the pan falls into you hand, you did it wrong. It should require some prying with fully cured rtv.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

That could be it. I don't recall using brake cleaner to clean it.
I believe the sealant definitely cured well because it required allot prying to remove.
My windage tray got pretty bent up from all of the prying last time I removed it. I straightend it out as best I could but I think that could be why it didn't work this time.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah, time to bust out the razor blade too.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

The razor blade went to full use. There wasn't a trace of rtv remaining in even the little channels in sealing surface of the pan.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

clean all surfaces of all gasket material, but don't gouge or scratch anything. then clean all surfaces well with a scotchbrite pad. then wipe off again with brakleen or whatever you're using. i use black rtv then i just lay the bead. install. i usually wait overnight before filling with oil or running it. also make sure your pan's not bent on the lip or anything

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I doubt it, about 110%. Tightening down the oil pan makes that thing flat as a pancake again. There is a failboat making port in Houston TX I believe.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Sure, but not without scraping off some precious sealant in the process. I'd rather be safe than sorry this time. I'm so frustrated that if it doesn't work this time I'm taking the motor to a shop and paying several big ones to have them seal up the pan.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

lol nah bryce i had the same issues turns out my leak was a bad front seal pulled the ****** motor 3 times to find that **** i was so pissed. Clean sur.face good cure time and you are good to go. Oh and you might check your front seal to be sure its not leaking like mine was lol.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

W/ Hondas, one of the biggest pains is getting the oil pan to seal properly. The culprit ALWAYS was overtightening of the bolts. Spec is 10lbs. If you make the gasket squeeze out, then it's WAY too much torque.

I think getting a smaller torque wrench that is more accurate w/ lower torque settings would be best.

Permatex Ultra Gray is rec'd, but only in certain areas of the pan. Less is better here.

Blue loctite on the bolts is rec'd, since w/ such low bolt torque, they would back out.

This is all for a B18c1.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

That's all well and good on a Honda where you have a rubber gasket. The miata has no such gasket and the seal is made entirely of rtv. We have already detailed the correct proceedure. If he is following it 100% and still having issues then he has other problems. I recommended oil dye in his last thread to see if the leak was coming from higher up and from what I gather it never happened.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)