Anthony_

I was considering going full retard on a 1994 mazda miata build, considering the fact that I want to boost it. I looked on Flyingmiata.com I found the FM II kit intriguing. I wanted to go with the GT3071R, upgrade for the kit. I want to have a good amount of power maybe in the 300 whp range. But then looked into it and figured I need to build the engine. Considering the fact that I'm a "n00b" what exactly should I look into when want to build my engine? A friend suggested a stroker kit but I highly doubt that is all.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Why 300?

Is this just some senseless number you pulled out of your ***?

You're going to need pistons and rods at the minimum.
Also a better transmission.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, experience a 200-250hp miata first. Lots starts going wrong often north of 300. You'll at the very least need rods and pistons above 250ish. 3071 is a little laggy, I wouldn't bother.

Stroker kit hasn't been very reliable, and is crazy expensive, it includes a brand new crank and rods. You'd still need pistons.

Pistons are $~500, rods are $300, plus machining, bearings, gaskets, rings, and assembly.

Anthony_

I had pulled 300 out of no where cause of the fact that I wanted to originally go on an l crate motor but those builds are costly so I wanted more bang for my buck, so should I just go on their preferred turbo the GT2560R for cars on stock internals?

Ls1 crate motor*

Anthony_

From my knowledge I know I want to do internals regardless cause of the senseless beating on the car I'm going to do, but also I've heard that the factory clutch can't withstand much hp obviously

Erat

iTrader: (5)

You need to do more research.

A stock engine will hold up just fine at 250hp (assuming the tune is good(and the engine is in decent condition)) now matter how much thrashing you do to it.

Anthony_

Eat you're the **** bro I was expecting to get complete ---- on being a noob... but I want to get the FM II with the hydra nemesis ecu and 700cc injectors but it's costly. I like the setup but need to know if it's the right decision for track/drifting and constant trashing

Erat*

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I'm not going to spoon feed you information, then i'd just be building your miata for you.

Brows this site, read build threads (i even have two of them that are a decent read), figure out what other people are doing and what works for them. It will give you a real good understanding of how to get the most for you money. IE. not using Hydra.

Anthony_

True, thanks man much appreciated... first car problems in my case lol

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

They Hydra ECU is amazing!!

...If you hate money and aren't willing to compromise on having a manual boost controller.


Click Here, Anthony

curly

iTrader: (25)

Use the edit button.

curly

iTrader: (25)

*not an asterisk.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

OP, do you drift?

92mazdaspeed

I've had a hydra and a full FM2 for about 6 years. Yes it was expensive. Yes it didn't have electronic boost control that worked until now. However, the support from Jeremy at FM for any question about it is fantastic. I have always been upgrading parts in the turbo system from the turbo itself to injectors to full on forged race spec engine, and all it takes is a phone call for a new map. I've installed and worked on several MegasquirtPNP's and when it has an issue it's not as easy of a fix as just calling someone and figuring it out.

I really have a love hate relationship with the Hydra to tell the truth. They want you to pay all the time for features or upgrades. This sucks. The only thing that has kept me from switching to a AEM or a MS3 is the fact that I can call FM talk to Jeremy and have him email me a map with the adjusted settings; wether it be new parts installed that change setting or maps, or just a hick up in one of the maps. I guess I would say if you want to tinker with the ECU and setting go for the cheaper ECU option. If you truly want a plug and play. Start it up and drive option that really does seam like the car still has a factory ECU still in it. The HYDRA is worth the extra money. Just be ready for upgrade charges when they decide its time again.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The thing with Hydra in your case is that you aren't really ever getting anything but canned off the shelf safe maps.

Has your car been dyno tuned or street tuned after these changes?

92mazdaspeed

I always take it a drive it to make sure everything is going ok. It always starts and drives. It has no oh s... What's wrong it's not starting. Then after the LTFT have set the base fuel map in a few hours. I schedule a appointment to have it dyno tuned for the timing and fine tune the base fuel table. It's gotten a little more complicated this year since I added a flex sensor and have been working with e85. I guess my point with the it starts and drive is.... If your ok with just a ok timing map. ( Jeremy has been getting more agressive with the timing in the base maps by the way). You can plug it in and drive it
without any problems. Also, if you don't want to figure out how do do something with the ECU at all and have no knowledge of even how to do it. The support FM offers is great. MS is DIY unless you buy the PNP and have no upgrade done to the car. Hydra is a true plug and play ( w/FM support). It all depends on how involved OP wants to get with the ECU and figuring out upgrades on his own.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

So what you're saying is that with Hydra, you still need to tune your car, or pay someone to tune it.

Just like Megasquirt?

92mazdaspeed

Well yes and no. You don't have to. The new timing maps Jeremy has been using are actually really close. If you want all of it. Yes you should. But again you don't have to because Jeremy will do it based off datalogs you take and send him. He will then adjust your maps for you. This is very nice when you don't have a reliable dyno tuner in your area. It's always going to come down to someone's choice on what ECU they prefer. That's great thing about society. We have choices.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

True story, and Jeremy is good people.


<--- Ex-Hydra user.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

My experience with the FM Kit and Hydra as a newb who knew nothing about turbos or tuning:

I plugged everything in, I turned the key, and I drove the car. I ran it on wastegate without tuning it, and then I ran it at 12PSI on MBC once I had gone through the hydra procedure to calibrate the knock sensor. I really didn't need to do anything else with the ECU to have a fast car.

I later started tweaking idle settings to get it "just perfect", but in reality, it was already 99% there. I think in the end, I took my idle down from about 870 rpm to 850 rpm, or something like that.

I've turned on the long term trim autotune to keep the AFRs on target with the 3D map as the seasons/fuel mixtures change. That's it.